how do i lose the air flow meter?
#1
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how do i lose the air flow meter?
i have a very clean engine bay, all except the tacky air flow meter sticking off the front of my t66. i think it looks dumb as can be. i was told by a good buddy of mine that the only way you can get rid of it was by installing the haltec system. any advice? thanks, nathan.
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An SAFC is only a signal modifier. It doesn't even have no where near the adjustability that a standalone ECU offers. Like I said, when the time comes for big power, you'll be glad you got it.
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#12
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Originally posted by NZConvertible
I think the real question is what the hell are you doing using the stock ECU with a T66?
I think the real question is what the hell are you doing using the stock ECU with a T66?
Originally posted by turboneticsismychoice
how much? and how does it hook up? i have a safc also. will that be taken out? thanx, nathan
how much? and how does it hook up? i have a safc also. will that be taken out? thanx, nathan
If you install an EMS, you can sell the S-AFC, fuel cut defenser, and any ignition computer or additional injector controller that you may have.
Just some hints on an EMS:
1) If your friend (or tuner) likes the Haltech products, they you should probably stick with that brand so you can get help when you need it. All of the modern EMS products are similar, and it is best to get something that your local tuner knows how to use. Nearly every popular RX-7 standalone EMS is made in Australia, and that's a long way to go for help if there is no local help.
2) If you decide to go with Microtech instead, keep in mind that the old Microtech MTX models are very basic, and are really only good for a drag race car. The LT8 is much better, and will work for street use as well as racing. The LTX8 is just an LT8 with ignition coils, so if you already have good coils, you can save yourself some money by sticking with the LT8. Note that the Microtech computers are configured at the factory in Australia, so be sure to order the correct options the first time. Tariffs are not fun.
3) Please browse our Engine Management Forum for more information. Note that the Power FC and AEM Plug&Play EMS are for the 3Gen RX-7 only.
https://www.rx7club.com/forumdisplay...365&forumid=37
#13
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Other then a standalone, HKS has a piggy back unit that alows you replace just the AFM. It allows you to adjust and control the air readings sent to the ecu. They stop producing that unit now, it was one of those old school HKS units made back in the early 90s.
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As far as I know HKS usa never released the VPC for the FC3S...they just kept showing it as a "coming soon" option in there catalogs but it never was released here...JET
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Originally posted by Wormiez
Other then a standalone, HKS has a piggy back unit that alows you replace just the AFM. It allows you to adjust and control the air readings sent to the ecu. They stop producing that unit now, it was one of those old school HKS units made back in the early 90s.
Other then a standalone, HKS has a piggy back unit that alows you replace just the AFM. It allows you to adjust and control the air readings sent to the ecu. They stop producing that unit now, it was one of those old school HKS units made back in the early 90s.
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i'm running a piggyback system on the ecu with the safc. i've got 1600 and 1100 injectors, and a supra pump good to 600 hp. everything holds my power though 425-475(dyno). my machanic said the next step would be haltech, but i didn't know if that was the ONLY way to go. all of the info is really helpful. keep it comin'! :-)
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I'm sorry to tell you but a stand alone in one of the bigest waists of money there is!! everybody thinks that you cant run fast times without it, but what is fast to you? I know for a fact because I've been there to see a car run a 12.000 and still had the mass air meter on the car NO STAND ALONE!!! If a 12.00 is not a good enouph time for you on a street tire then you shouldnt bother having a street driven car. because you all know as well as I do that if you put a slick on the car it would easly be an 11.7 ish run! so take the money from a stand alone and put it into some other upgrade.
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Originally posted by trueimport
I'm sorry to tell you but a stand alone in one of the bigest waists of money there is!! everybody thinks that you cant run fast times without it, but what is fast to you? I know for a fact because I've been there to see a car run a 12.000 and still had the mass air meter on the car NO STAND ALONE!!! If a 12.00 is not a good enouph time for you on a street tire then you shouldnt bother having a street driven car. because you all know as well as I do that if you put a slick on the car it would easly be an 11.7 ish run! so take the money from a stand alone and put it into some other upgrade.
I'm sorry to tell you but a stand alone in one of the bigest waists of money there is!! everybody thinks that you cant run fast times without it, but what is fast to you? I know for a fact because I've been there to see a car run a 12.000 and still had the mass air meter on the car NO STAND ALONE!!! If a 12.00 is not a good enouph time for you on a street tire then you shouldnt bother having a street driven car. because you all know as well as I do that if you put a slick on the car it would easly be an 11.7 ish run! so take the money from a stand alone and put it into some other upgrade.
#20
REINCARNATED
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Guys. Guys. Boost equals power right? More air, more fuel equals MORE power.
After a certain point the most restrictive point on ANY engine is an Air flow meter. You've got all this air trying to come into a small metal box with a flapper door. For pete sake dont come on here saying a standalone is a waist of money. Wanna make big power? drop the AFM, and we all know the only way to do so is either go full EMS or Carb setup.
Have a good day gentlemen
-Markus
www.Mazsport.net <<<AUTHORIZED MICROTECH DEALER
After a certain point the most restrictive point on ANY engine is an Air flow meter. You've got all this air trying to come into a small metal box with a flapper door. For pete sake dont come on here saying a standalone is a waist of money. Wanna make big power? drop the AFM, and we all know the only way to do so is either go full EMS or Carb setup.
Have a good day gentlemen
-Markus
www.Mazsport.net <<<AUTHORIZED MICROTECH DEALER
#21
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Originally posted by trueimport
I'm sorry to tell you but a stand alone in one of the bigest waists of money there is!! everybody thinks that you cant run fast times without it, but what is fast to you? I know for a fact because I've been there to see a car run a 12.000 and still had the mass air meter on the car NO STAND ALONE!!! If a 12.00 is not a good enouph time for you on a street tire then you shouldnt bother having a street driven car. because you all know as well as I do that if you put a slick on the car it would easly be an 11.7 ish run! so take the money from a stand alone and put it into some other upgrade.
I'm sorry to tell you but a stand alone in one of the bigest waists of money there is!! everybody thinks that you cant run fast times without it, but what is fast to you? I know for a fact because I've been there to see a car run a 12.000 and still had the mass air meter on the car NO STAND ALONE!!! If a 12.00 is not a good enouph time for you on a street tire then you shouldnt bother having a street driven car. because you all know as well as I do that if you put a slick on the car it would easly be an 11.7 ish run! so take the money from a stand alone and put it into some other upgrade.
Both have the same bullets but one has a Magnified sight with 10 times zoom. Guess which one is better? why because it is more accurate and has a better range than the one without the sight.
If you don't understand that then your kind of dense.
#22
Ho's and Cadillac Doors
how are you running a T66, getting 475whp, running the stock AFM and ECU, and still have an engine to speak of?
I figure that thing would have been gone a long time ago
I figure that thing would have been gone a long time ago
#23
Bimmer *****
Originally posted by trueimport
I'm sorry to tell you but a stand alone in one of the bigest waists of money there is!! everybody thinks that you cant run fast times without it, but what is fast to you? I know for a fact because I've been there to see a car run a 12.000 and still had the mass air meter on the car NO STAND ALONE!!! If a 12.00 is not a good enouph time for you on a street tire then you shouldnt bother having a street driven car. because you all know as well as I do that if you put a slick on the car it would easly be an 11.7 ish run! so take the money from a stand alone and put it into some other upgrade.
I'm sorry to tell you but a stand alone in one of the bigest waists of money there is!! everybody thinks that you cant run fast times without it, but what is fast to you? I know for a fact because I've been there to see a car run a 12.000 and still had the mass air meter on the car NO STAND ALONE!!! If a 12.00 is not a good enouph time for you on a street tire then you shouldnt bother having a street driven car. because you all know as well as I do that if you put a slick on the car it would easly be an 11.7 ish run! so take the money from a stand alone and put it into some other upgrade.
#24
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Originally posted by Evil Aviator
The AFM is good for about 400hp, maybe more...
The AFM is good for about 400hp, maybe more...
Just to add to that, a good friend of mine has a TII pushing 426 running a stock ECU. Boost set at 21 psi.
Car:
1988 Mazda RX-7 (full race prep.)
Built in 2000
Performance:
Fastest E.T. 10.61 @ 132mph - 60ft of 1.61 (STOCK COMPUTER & GEARBOX)
Dyno results: Tuned at 426 hp - 353 torque at the wheels (21 psi boost)
Car Shows and Rewards:
Runner up Import Drag Class - Speedorama 2000
Feature write up Performance Auto & Sound (December 2000) www.pasmag.com
1st Import Drag Class - Speedorama 2001
Runner Up Mazda Class - Speedorama 2001
Best of Show Engine - Speedorama 2001
Runner Up Mazda Wild - Performance World 2001
Feature Model Booth - Darknights 2001
Runner Up Mazda Class - Performance World 2002
Feature car - Canadian Auto Show 2002
Qualify in the Quick-8 every event taken to - have done a personal best every event.
Media: Performance Auto & Sound (pasmag.com), Sport Compact National, Inside Track, Racemode.com, TorontoImports.com, PureImports.com & TorontoSteetRacing.com.
Car Modifications:
Body - Fully Lightened
Motor - 13B 4 port, street port+, 3mm racing seals, 8L fuel cell, Bosch Electric fuel pump, Paxton fuel filter, 4" wide racing intercooler, T68 equivalent race prep Turbo, 3.5" down pipe, Turbonetics race gate, runs off stock computer with a SDS fuel injector controller, runs 8 injectors, two MSD ignition amp + blaster coils, Greddy Profec boost controler, line lock.
Gauges - custom aluminum dash with all Autometer gauges
Interior - S-Line 3" 5pt racing harness, Momo racing seat, Momo Apache steering wheel and a 6pt certifed roll cage.
Suspension & Driveline - stock rebuilt 5 speed gearbox, ACT race clutch and pressure plate, final drive 4.11(stock), custom built coilovers height adjustable front & rear with B+G Suspension race springs, rebound adjustable rear Koni, Brembo slotted rotors w/ carbon fiber pads, 15" ROH Sniper wheels, new Potenza tires front, Goodyear Eagle drag slicks rear.
Exterior - APR Performance custom aluminum drag wing, fiberglass front lip.
The Saber Racing Team thanks Can-Jam Auto, Autotrin, TireMag, A-Spec Import Performance, J&R Trading, Momo, Shinzowerks, Ronny O'Brien and the boys from Top Power for making this all possible.
Last edited by silverrotor; 01-02-04 at 03:15 AM.
#25
I'm a boost creep...
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The question you need to ask is, is the stock ECU the best, safest or most efficient way to achieve those results? No, not by a long shot. Just because something can be done, doesn't make it the smart way.
The cost of upgrading the stock ECU to a far superior aftermarket one is comparable to rebuilding the engine that blew because of the limited tuning abilities of interceptors and add-ons, plus you'll be making more power (or the same power with less boost). I know which route I'd rather take...
The cost of upgrading the stock ECU to a far superior aftermarket one is comparable to rebuilding the engine that blew because of the limited tuning abilities of interceptors and add-ons, plus you'll be making more power (or the same power with less boost). I know which route I'd rather take...