i have a very clean engine bay, all except the tacky air flow meter sticking off the front of my t66. i think it looks dumb as can be. i was told by a good buddy of mine that the only way you can get rid of it was by installing the haltec system. any advice? thanks, nathan.

 

Yeah, you need a standalone like a Haltech or Microtech. I'm running without an AFM and have a Microtech hooked up on my car. Its well worth the upgrade.

 

how much? and how does it hook up? i have a safc also. will that be taken out? thanx, nathan

 

microtech MTX8 or LTX8 cost around AUS $1500 complete with handset...

 

no need for an safc if you have a standalone.

 

cool, i'll look for one of those asap. i appreciate it.

 

An SAFC is only a signal modifier. It doesn't even have no where near the adjustability that a standalone ECU offers. Like I said, when the time comes for big power, you'll be glad you got it.

 

I think the real question is what the hell are you doing using the stock ECU with a T66?

 

Get a LTX8 for that sucka

 

Yeah I wanna know how youve lived long enough to ask that Question with your current setup!!!

 

if you're asking these questions you should not be running these parts on your TII...I just hope you have someone qualified tuning your car

 

The AFM is good for about 400hp, maybe more, on a stock-block S4 TII engine with a turbo upgrade and appropriate whiz boxes. Sure, it's ghetto by today's standards, but back in the day this was the only way to do it. You youngin's have everything so easy nowadays.

An EMS is more complicated to hook up than an S-AFC, and it is much more difficult to tune. However, the EMS allows for much better tuning for those who know what they are doing.

If you install an EMS, you can sell the S-AFC, fuel cut defenser, and any ignition computer or additional injector controller that you may have.

Just some hints on an EMS:
1) If your friend (or tuner) likes the Haltech products, they you should probably stick with that brand so you can get help when you need it. All of the modern EMS products are similar, and it is best to get something that your local tuner knows how to use. Nearly every popular RX-7 standalone EMS is made in Australia, and that's a long way to go for help if there is no local help.
2) If you decide to go with Microtech instead, keep in mind that the old Microtech MTX models are very basic, and are really only good for a drag race car. The LT8 is much better, and will work for street use as well as racing. The LTX8 is just an LT8 with ignition coils, so if you already have good coils, you can save yourself some money by sticking with the LT8. Note that the Microtech computers are configured at the factory in Australia, so be sure to order the correct options the first time. Tariffs are not fun.
3) Please browse our Engine Management Forum for more information. Note that the Power FC and AEM Plug&Play EMS are for the 3Gen RX-7 only.
https://www.rx7club.com/forumdisplay...365&forumid=37

 

Other then a standalone, HKS has a piggy back unit that alows you replace just the AFM. It allows you to adjust and control the air readings sent to the ecu. They stop producing that unit now, it was one of those old school HKS units made back in the early 90s.

 

As far as I know HKS usa never released the VPC for the FC3S...they just kept showing it as a "coming soon" option in there catalogs but it never was released here...JET

 

the 90-93 miata one would work, the miata guys put fc afms into thier cars all the time

 

ill buy your safc ;]

 

i'm running a piggyback system on the ecu with the safc. i've got 1600 and 1100 injectors, and a supra pump good to 600 hp. everything holds my power though 425-475(dyno). my machanic said the next step would be haltech, but i didn't know if that was the ONLY way to go. all of the info is really helpful. keep it comin'! :-)

 

I'm sorry to tell you but a stand alone in one of the bigest waists of money there is!! everybody thinks that you cant run fast times without it, but what is fast to you? I know for a fact because I've been there to see a car run a 12.000 and still had the mass air meter on the car NO STAND ALONE!!! If a 12.00 is not a good enouph time for you on a street tire then you shouldnt bother having a street driven car. because you all know as well as I do that if you put a slick on the car it would easly be an 11.7 ish run! so take the money from a stand alone and put it into some other upgrade.

 

I grabbed a 11.04 in my car on street tires with 22 lbs. so i know it's plenty fast like you said. And WOW! what a totally different point of veiw on the stand alone! with the way my times are now and what you just said it does make me wonder if it is really worth it, and how much will i truly use it(only at the track)? nice to hear opposite sides! thanx trueimport.

 

Guys. Guys. Boost equals power right? More air, more fuel equals MORE power.

After a certain point the most restrictive point on ANY engine is an Air flow meter. You've got all this air trying to come into a small metal box with a flapper door. For pete sake dont come on here saying a standalone is a waist of money. Wanna make big power? drop the AFM, and we all know the only way to do so is either go full EMS or Carb setup.

Have a good day gentlemen
-Markus

www.Mazsport.net <<<AUTHORIZED MICROTECH DEALER

 

No one said you can't run the damn thing without an EMS but its better off with one you puts! It is easier to extract power with one and you have MUCH MORE capability with one than without or with a piggy-back. The piggy back systems don't have timming injector staging or as much tunning as the EMS systems. its like having two high power guns infront of you:

Both have the same bullets but one has a Magnified sight with 10 times zoom. Guess which one is better? why because it is more accurate and has a better range than the one without the sight.

If you don't understand that then your kind of dense.

 

how are you running a T66, getting 475whp, running the stock AFM and ECU, and still have an engine to speak of?
I figure that thing would have been gone a long time ago

 

yeah and the second u run lean on that stock ecu, boom there goes ur motor... its not worth it, i'd rather have a haltech or microtech, and have more control over my fuel... my car ran 12.4 at 121 mph on stock ecu, but the motor also only lasted 400 miles... partly because of the ecu, partly the radiator being stock diagonal mount... its not a fun thing, i just finished getting the motor built and installed,a nd before my car hits the track i'm having a haltech installed and dyno tuned... as well as radiator...

 

Just to add to that, a good friend of mine has a TII pushing 426 running a stock ECU. Boost set at 21 psi.








Car:
1988 Mazda RX-7 (full race prep.)
Built in 2000


Performance:
Fastest E.T. 10.61 @ 132mph - 60ft of 1.61 (STOCK COMPUTER & GEARBOX)
Dyno results: Tuned at 426 hp - 353 torque at the wheels (21 psi boost)

Car Shows and Rewards:
Runner up Import Drag Class - Speedorama 2000
Feature write up Performance Auto & Sound (December 2000) www.pasmag.com
1st Import Drag Class - Speedorama 2001
Runner Up Mazda Class - Speedorama 2001
Best of Show Engine - Speedorama 2001
Runner Up Mazda Wild - Performance World 2001
Feature Model Booth - Darknights 2001
Runner Up Mazda Class - Performance World 2002
Feature car - Canadian Auto Show 2002

Qualify in the Quick-8 every event taken to - have done a personal best every event.

Media: Performance Auto & Sound (pasmag.com), Sport Compact National, Inside Track, Racemode.com, TorontoImports.com, PureImports.com & TorontoSteetRacing.com.


Car Modifications:
Body - Fully Lightened

Motor - 13B 4 port, street port+, 3mm racing seals, 8L fuel cell, Bosch Electric fuel pump, Paxton fuel filter, 4" wide racing intercooler, T68 equivalent race prep Turbo, 3.5" down pipe, Turbonetics race gate, runs off stock computer with a SDS fuel injector controller, runs 8 injectors, two MSD ignition amp + blaster coils, Greddy Profec boost controler, line lock.

Gauges - custom aluminum dash with all Autometer gauges

Interior - S-Line 3" 5pt racing harness, Momo racing seat, Momo Apache steering wheel and a 6pt certifed roll cage.

Suspension & Driveline - stock rebuilt 5 speed gearbox, ACT race clutch and pressure plate, final drive 4.11(stock), custom built coilovers height adjustable front & rear with B+G Suspension race springs, rebound adjustable rear Koni, Brembo slotted rotors w/ carbon fiber pads, 15" ROH Sniper wheels, new Potenza tires front, Goodyear Eagle drag slicks rear.

Exterior - APR Performance custom aluminum drag wing, fiberglass front lip.

The Saber Racing Team thanks Can-Jam Auto, Autotrin, TireMag, A-Spec Import Performance, J&R Trading, Momo, Shinzowerks, Ronny O'Brien and the boys from Top Power for making this all possible.

 

The question you need to ask is, is the stock ECU the best, safest or most efficient way to achieve those results? No, not by a long shot. Just because something can be done, doesn't make it the smart way.

The cost of upgrading the stock ECU to a far superior aftermarket one is comparable to rebuilding the engine that blew because of the limited tuning abilities of interceptors and add-ons, plus you'll be making more power (or the same power with less boost). I know which route I'd rather take...