how do i lose the air flow meter?
I asked Kurt the very same topic at hand. Why stick with the stock ECU? His reply - he wanted to see what he could max out at. Tuned at 426, Is pretty damn Impressive. Putting a standalone EMS would net further exponiential results. Good for him!
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From: winter haven fl
Originally posted by 2ndGen.rocket
how are you running a T66, getting 475whp, running the stock AFM and ECU, and still have an engine to speak of?
I figure that thing would have been gone a long time ago
how are you running a T66, getting 475whp, running the stock AFM and ECU, and still have an engine to speak of?
I figure that thing would have been gone a long time ago
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From: n
The stock boost sensor only reads up to about 15psi, so why are you trying to run the stock ECU past this pressure level? I would be highly suspect of anyone claiming big power numbers on boost past 15psi on the stock ECU, as this is next to impossible. The only other option is to run a gamut of HKS parts (i.e. PFC F-CON + AIC, etc.), as one of our readers (BOOSTD7?) made around 500hp to the wheels with such a combination.
It's really ends up as bragging rights pushing a stock ECU to such high power levels. Stand-alone EMS technology is significantly superior for such an application.
-Ted
It's really ends up as bragging rights pushing a stock ECU to such high power levels. Stand-alone EMS technology is significantly superior for such an application.
-Ted
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From: winter haven fl
yeah to be absolutely honest, i only know about 1/3 of the **** thats been done to my rx. it was used in scca for many years by isc racing services here in winter haven. i'll have to find out tomorrow from david the extent of ecu **** thats been done. but i do know that its not stock. here i'll post a link to two of ISC's sites.
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From: winter haven fl
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From: n
Originally posted by Wormiez
Other then a standalone, HKS has a piggy back unit that alows you replace just the AFM. It allows you to adjust and control the air readings sent to the ecu. They stop producing that unit now, it was one of those old school HKS units made back in the early 90s.
Other then a standalone, HKS has a piggy back unit that alows you replace just the AFM. It allows you to adjust and control the air readings sent to the ecu. They stop producing that unit now, it was one of those old school HKS units made back in the early 90s.
-Ted
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From: n
Originally posted by JET
As far as I know HKS usa never released the VPC for the FC3S...they just kept showing it as a "coming soon" option in there catalogs but it never was released here...JET
As far as I know HKS usa never released the VPC for the FC3S...they just kept showing it as a "coming soon" option in there catalogs but it never was released here...JET
-Ted
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From: n
Originally posted by trueimport
I'm sorry to tell you but a stand alone in one of the bigest waists of money there is!! everybody thinks that you cant run fast times without it, but what is fast to you? I know for a fact because I've been there to see a car run a 12.000 and still had the mass air meter on the car NO STAND ALONE!!! If a 12.00 is not a good enouph time for you on a street tire then you shouldnt bother having a street driven car. because you all know as well as I do that if you put a slick on the car it would easly be an 11.7 ish run! so take the money from a stand alone and put it into some other upgrade. 
I'm sorry to tell you but a stand alone in one of the bigest waists of money there is!! everybody thinks that you cant run fast times without it, but what is fast to you? I know for a fact because I've been there to see a car run a 12.000 and still had the mass air meter on the car NO STAND ALONE!!! If a 12.00 is not a good enouph time for you on a street tire then you shouldnt bother having a street driven car. because you all know as well as I do that if you put a slick on the car it would easly be an 11.7 ish run! so take the money from a stand alone and put it into some other upgrade.
An FC3S with full exhaust, intake, and enough fuel will do a 12.xx with slicks with very little fuss.
A 10.xx FC3S on street tires is "fast" in my book.
I'll give you a call when I want to "waist" my money on another Haltech.
-Ted
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From: n
Originally posted by Relisys190
Guys. Guys. Boost equals power right? More air, more fuel equals MORE power.
Guys. Guys. Boost equals power right? More air, more fuel equals MORE power.
After a certain point the most restrictive point on ANY engine is an Air flow meter. You've got all this air trying to come into a small metal box with a flapper door.
For pete sake dont come on here saying a standalone is a waist of money. Wanna make big power? drop the AFM, and we all know the only way to do so is either go full EMS or Carb setup.
-Ted
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From: n
Originally posted by silverrotor
Just to add to that, a good friend of mine has a TII pushing 426 running a stock ECU. Boost set at 21 psi.
[/B]
Just to add to that, a good friend of mine has a TII pushing 426 running a stock ECU. Boost set at 21 psi.
[/B]
Single belt on a removed air pump set-up is either going to slip the water pump or kill the alternator bearings (due to over tightened belt). Whatever the case, this is a big no-no...
-Ted
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From: n
Originally posted by turboneticsismychoice
my 13b was heavily,HEAVILY rebuilt.all internals from rotors, street port/polish, and seals. and at the top right where the rear seal normally blows on the 13b. my mechanic, david, drilled and installed another long block bolt to add to the stability.
my 13b was heavily,HEAVILY rebuilt.all internals from rotors, street port/polish, and seals. and at the top right where the rear seal normally blows on the 13b. my mechanic, david, drilled and installed another long block bolt to add to the stability.
-Ted
I'm a boost creep...
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From: Auckland, New Zealand
Originally posted by RETed
Actually, AIRFLOW equals power; More boost means more heat in the intake charge.
Actually, AIRFLOW equals power; More boost means more heat in the intake charge.
If you remove airflow restrictions throughout the engine (intake, exhaust, ports, turbo) then you don't have to push as hard to get the same airflow. This means the same power from less boost, or more power from the same boost.
The goal is always to make the most power from the least boost.
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From: Darwin, NT, Australia
Originally posted by RETed
I'm sorry, but whenever I see stuff like this, I shake my head.
Single belt on a removed air pump set-up is either going to slip the water pump or kill the alternator bearings (due to over tightened belt). Whatever the case, this is a big no-no...
-Ted
I'm sorry, but whenever I see stuff like this, I shake my head.
Single belt on a removed air pump set-up is either going to slip the water pump or kill the alternator bearings (due to over tightened belt). Whatever the case, this is a big no-no...
-Ted
I don't mean to be an **** about this, but without a stock fan on the water pump pulley the belt does not slip at all and only needs to be tighented to factory specs. With a stock fan the storey is totally different of course..
Just an observation I have made with my personal cars and some of my friends running electric fans aswell.
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From: n
I've worked on several cars sans fan, and they all managed to slip...even with the belt adjusted correctly (1/4" deflection?).
The water pump tends to slip above 4kRPM, and seeing it was a "race" car, I'll put money the water pump slips at high RPMs.
Easy test...with the engine off, grab the water pump pulley and turn. Can you turn it pretty easily with your hand? I bet you can. With a double pulley and extra belt, you can't turn the water pump by hand. Why risk this possibility when you can bolt on a double pulley and extra belt?
-Ted
The water pump tends to slip above 4kRPM, and seeing it was a "race" car, I'll put money the water pump slips at high RPMs.
Easy test...with the engine off, grab the water pump pulley and turn. Can you turn it pretty easily with your hand? I bet you can. With a double pulley and extra belt, you can't turn the water pump by hand. Why risk this possibility when you can bolt on a double pulley and extra belt?
-Ted
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From: Greenpoint, Brooklyn
i heard double pulleys have a knack for ruining alternators' lives. i'd like one thick belt, personally. i have one belt on a dual pulley because i bought two "same sized" belts (mazda products) and they were completely different sizes.
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From: ATL, GA
The mystery of the prize.
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From: Bay area
Originally posted by RETed
I've worked on several cars sans fan, and they all managed to slip...even with the belt adjusted correctly (1/4" deflection?).
The water pump tends to slip above 4kRPM, and seeing it was a "race" car, I'll put money the water pump slips at high RPMs.
Easy test...with the engine off, grab the water pump pulley and turn. Can you turn it pretty easily with your hand? I bet you can. With a double pulley and extra belt, you can't turn the water pump by hand. Why risk this possibility when you can bolt on a double pulley and extra belt?
-Ted
I've worked on several cars sans fan, and they all managed to slip...even with the belt adjusted correctly (1/4" deflection?).
The water pump tends to slip above 4kRPM, and seeing it was a "race" car, I'll put money the water pump slips at high RPMs.
Easy test...with the engine off, grab the water pump pulley and turn. Can you turn it pretty easily with your hand? I bet you can. With a double pulley and extra belt, you can't turn the water pump by hand. Why risk this possibility when you can bolt on a double pulley and extra belt?
-Ted
The thing that annoys me about that picture are the studs left in the water pump pulley hub from the mechanical fan, I hate that.