Gabriel82

iTrader: (8)

So this is the first time i am every installing springs
i bought some japanese tanabe srings for my series 5
and they came with shocks
so how do i install them on my car
can anyone like direct me in the correct way
(and please if your going to criticize, or talk smack please dont post)

here are the picture of my springs

Brink-of-Time

Ah this is going to be fun. lol

You have it way easier since the springs are already installed on the strut.

Tools you need:
torque wrench (highly needed!)
14mm socket
17mm socket
Impact gun (Highly reccommended to help get the bolts off)
Breaker Bar (If you don't have access to an impact gun)

First, jack the car up enough so you can still reach top nuts of the old struts
Remove wheels

Front:
Turn the hub/rotors to reach the bolts easier
Use a 17mm (if I remember right) impact to remove the lower two bolts on the front struts
Remove the brake lines from the struts
Use a 14mm impact to remove the top nuts from the strut (have some help so the old strut/spring doesn't bounce or fall)
Installation is reverse as removal

Rear:
Use a 17mm impact to remove lower mount bolts
Pull the bottom off the slide
Use a 14mm to remove the top nuts (again have someone hold the strut)
Installation is reverse of removal

There should be markings on the top of the struts. They face towards the inside of the car. if the strut is facing in a weird direction, just turn the strut once the top nuts are on.

torque for all top nuts is 29-36ft/lbs
torque for bottom bolts on the front is 93-117 ft/lbs
torque for bottom bolts on the rear is 63-93 ft/lbs

Hope that helps

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

/\..that is a great Post!..Just to add,I always keep a 14mm nut on,loosely.You can reach up and undo it with your fingers and grasp the strut so it doesn't fall.

Brink-of-Time

Yeah you can do it that way. I just happened to yell for a fellow tech to catch them lol.

Also est. time is around 25-45 minutes depending if you have an impact gun or not.

Of course make sure to drive for about 20 miles to settle it in, then check all the torque again. You will also need an alignment.
As a tech, I have the luck of being able to use company tools (impact guns, alignment racks, etc) so I was able to do it myself.

Gabriel82

iTrader: (8)

so i shouldnt have to worry about the springs shooting out will I?

Brink-of-Time

absolutely not

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The Factory Service Manual can be found in the FAQ For FC thread. It contains all this information and more, and is an essential tool for any sort of service work that needs to be performed on these cars.

Additionally, the Haynes service manual for the 1986 thru 1991 RX-7 (both turbo and NA) can be found at most local auto parts stores or purchased from any good bookstore (ISBN number 1 56392 007 7). It is only about $25 and is a great quick reference for things like this. Not only does it contain most of the information in the FSM condensed into an easy to read format, but it includes full wiring diagrams as well.

These manuals will answer 99% of service related questions for the car and if you intend to do your own repair work, you will need at least one of them. Preferably both, since the FSM is a free download.

Brink-of-Time

Yeah agreed. I downloaded the FSM for my vert a while back.

KompressorLOgic

iTrader: (6)

rag + cardboard box! lol j/k

HeyITZthatFC

Can you expand a little more on what you mean by the markings on top of the strut? I installed Tanabe GF210 and Illumina's on my rears and I might have done it wrong. Took a test around the block and I hear a thud on the left rear going over bumps, ditches, or cracks on the road. (not when I'm driving over bumps slowly though)

HeyITZthatFC

Oh my, now I understand why people are saying mark the struts.. I have no idea if I put them in the correct way. Can anyone tell me which position they should be in ? So that I can make sure they're in correctly?

Brink-of-Time

The marks for the front need to be facing front/inside. Basically pointing to the hood latch if that gives you a better idea.

The back struts have no marks on the top. The bottom sleeve hole extends out on one side. That extension needs to face outwards.

Also make sure you torqued everything correctly. Once you test drive, redo the torque again once things are settled.

HeyITZthatFC

hmm my rear strut mounting plates had some white mark on them, so I just faced them towards the car.

What do you mean by extension needing to face outwards?

And I didn't have a toque wrench so I lightly (as light as I could) impact gunned that **** lol.. I test drove it around the block and found the rubber part that goes on top of the mounting plate was loose, that's what the thud was.. and the screw was pretty loose. Went for another and heard another thud, checked it same thing so I used the gun again, and put the old bolt above the new one that they gave me..

shika805

iTrader: (1)

haynes manual... plus some spring compressors and metric tools...

jmkogut

Yeah I tried to do the fronts on my FC without spring compressors and no matter how much I tried I couldn't get the strut assembly removed without spring compressors.

cmanns

Wow lol be careful with the gun you'll over torq **** easy.

*Hugs his torq wrench

Since were on suspension topic, how do you knwo when you need to replace stuff? It's been 18yrs for my car and I don't notice any problems lol

jmkogut

Well.. I noticed. after unbolting my strut, the rod just fell. No damping at all. That made me pretty ehh.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

You know you could die this way? If you don't have the tool, rent it or borrow it. It is very dangerous and there is no room for screwing around.

I have 2 spring compressor sets, complete with safety hooks. I have been doing struts since the early 80's, on VW Scirocco's and Golf and later on Honda's with my oldest son, then the RX7's. I did the struts on my wife's Celica a couple of weekends ago. I have probably done stuts on 15 different cars over the years, a fair amount for a weekender. This procedure still gives me the ******* each time I do it.

jmkogut

I'm not talking about removing springs, I'm not that stupid, Just about removing the entire assembly from the car.

On my first car, an S13, the rear struts dropped out if you unloaded them enough. On my current FC, no matter how much you unload the springs, there's not enough clearance to drop the struts.

HeyITZthatFC

Yeah for the most part, the bump is gone.. and I have enough space to fit two bolts over the thread, but the dial doesn't really fit on anymore, are they even supposed to stay on the rear struts?

Basically, I gunned the first bolt, and hand tightened the second one right over, and I have a little room to put the little dial above it, but any aggressive driving would probably knock it off.

After I install my fronts later today, I'm going to take my car to the shop to get an alignment and ask him to re tighten/check for any mistakes.

Brink-of-Time

actually yes there is enough room to pull the whole strut/spring assemblies off. Jack the car up and take off the tires. I had plently of room to take them off. I needed to anyways, since we have a wall mounted spring compressor.

As for impact guns, electric ones usually work pretty well. I still used a torque wrench though to be safe.

Some aftermarket struts don't support auto suspension ( the dials you are talking about? ).

Also, easiest way to see if your suspension is wooped: push hard on each corner of the car, if it rocks exessively, replace them.

HeyITZthatFC

Cool I actually completed the installation just a while ago, learned a lot but it was hell lol.

I'm going to take my car for an alignment, should I give the guy the Illumina papers with the torque specifications and ask him to re-tighten all the bolts?

magus2222

iTrader: (22)

first off, what shocks are those? what condition are those in? miles?
secondly, this is a very straight forward proceedure.
thirdly, if you do start to experience a thudding sound, more than likely the top bearing (its the ring between the strut top and spring) that has gone bad.
forthly, the use of an impact gun helps, but seriously, a little elbow grease and patience goes a long way.
fifth. yes, you are going to need an alignment if you remove the old struts. heres why, on these, the front struts have 4 bolts that alows you to move them 90 degrees based on alignment. also, where the strut connects to the spindle will also make a difference on alignment, but only by 1-2/10ths of a degree. enough to make a difference on tire wear.

anywho, this was one of my first mods to my 7, and hopefully this wont be the last.
good luck, and may proper torque be with you.

Lloyd

Brink-of-Time

lol, magus. We already answered his questions, but thanks for the add.

HeyITZthatFC

are you talking about the washer under the nut or the the ring with the molded rubber that sits on top of the springs?