how can i tell if my secondarys are working right?
#1
how can i tell if my secondarys are working right?
well this is my first rx7 . its a s5 with rebuilt motor 30k ago. the car runs fine starts fine . now the car makes good power at 3k or so but after 5k the car just has no power keeping reving up but nothign at all and u can hear a like very little cut outs too . so idk if my secondarys are clogged or not working . my idle jump from 700 down to 100 . and after i did 2 donuts i looked under the car and cat was glowing red a lil at idle.... also idk if tps would do that .let me know guys
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It sounds like you have problems beyond your auxilliary ports.
I would say that you have bad engine grounds, a plugged fuel filter, a plugged air filter, a non-functioning VDI and/or non-functioning auxillary ports. You may also have bad secondary injectos or resistor pack (not as likely).
As to the glowing exhaust after donuts... I am guessing that there was no snow for donuts, so I think you were working your engine hard. You were most likely on and off the rev limiter. The red exhaust is from the unburnt gas in the exhaust.
I doubt that the TPS is your problem (it is easy to check though, just do a search).
Your car idles at 100 RPM??? You have excellent Apex seals to idle that low. My 86 would only stay running down to 200 RPM and that is with 105 psi front and rear (before that fateful day... )
Look in the FSM for the troubleshooting suggestions for loss of power.
Anyway, to check your ports, the simplest way is to put some grease, clay, playdough or plumbers putty on the upper stop and see if it deforms while running. Other options include energizing the VDI solenoid and watching the ports and then observing the solenoid voltage while driving.
The VDI is similar, grease, clay or putty on the upper limit stop and see if it deforms.
I hope this helps
I would say that you have bad engine grounds, a plugged fuel filter, a plugged air filter, a non-functioning VDI and/or non-functioning auxillary ports. You may also have bad secondary injectos or resistor pack (not as likely).
As to the glowing exhaust after donuts... I am guessing that there was no snow for donuts, so I think you were working your engine hard. You were most likely on and off the rev limiter. The red exhaust is from the unburnt gas in the exhaust.
I doubt that the TPS is your problem (it is easy to check though, just do a search).
Your car idles at 100 RPM??? You have excellent Apex seals to idle that low. My 86 would only stay running down to 200 RPM and that is with 105 psi front and rear (before that fateful day... )
Look in the FSM for the troubleshooting suggestions for loss of power.
Anyway, to check your ports, the simplest way is to put some grease, clay, playdough or plumbers putty on the upper stop and see if it deforms while running. Other options include energizing the VDI solenoid and watching the ports and then observing the solenoid voltage while driving.
The VDI is similar, grease, clay or putty on the upper limit stop and see if it deforms.
I hope this helps
#7
ok so i messed around , took the vacumm line off the fuel rail under the intake tube...didnt feel a diffrece in power . so then i unplugged my tps sensor it idle good for like 5 seconds than started to idle bad again . drove with out tps sensor disconnected didnt feel a diffrence except for when i was just getting off the gas in 2nd gear i can hear backfiring as i drove it in second gear..so idk wat all this means now . are my secondarys not suppose to work with out vacaumm line conneted?
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Ever consider that the reason the cat is glowing is from a clog? That would explain the power cutoff too, hell maybe even some sputtering. exhaust restrictions will make an engine seem as if it's on the way out.
The idle could be the tps. The idle could even be the... idle set screw. If it's idling at 700 cold, then your idle is too low. Even without AWS mine idles at 1400 until it reaches operating temp.
So I would start it, let it warm up completely and then set the idle. Use the fast idle set screw for rough adjustments, and the air bleed screw for fine tuning. After you do that you can set the tps.
I would investigate that cat though. Go to an exhaust shop and see if they can weld you up a test pipe to go in there (It should be pretty cheap. less than $20)
The idle could be the tps. The idle could even be the... idle set screw. If it's idling at 700 cold, then your idle is too low. Even without AWS mine idles at 1400 until it reaches operating temp.
So I would start it, let it warm up completely and then set the idle. Use the fast idle set screw for rough adjustments, and the air bleed screw for fine tuning. After you do that you can set the tps.
I would investigate that cat though. Go to an exhaust shop and see if they can weld you up a test pipe to go in there (It should be pretty cheap. less than $20)
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Taking the vacuum line off the fuel rail wouldn't have a noticeable effect on idle, and the secondary injectors still work. And that backfiring when in second is because while the tps is unplugged the ecu sets the throttle position to 25% fixed.
Since you said your cat was glowing I'm pretty sure that will help with the power loss, and if it warms up fine thats because the aws on the back of the throttle body has a temp pot that has a rod that pushes on your fast idle cam.
Try the cat thing first, it may also help your idle.
Hell, if you think your neighbors or the local police won't mind, just pop the cat out and drive it around the block a couple of times.
Since you said your cat was glowing I'm pretty sure that will help with the power loss, and if it warms up fine thats because the aws on the back of the throttle body has a temp pot that has a rod that pushes on your fast idle cam.
Try the cat thing first, it may also help your idle.
Hell, if you think your neighbors or the local police won't mind, just pop the cat out and drive it around the block a couple of times.
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You don't have to, I don't know why people come up with that. Just take your standard ohmmeter, or multi-meter if it has that function. And test the resistance between the black and green/red wires (I think?) they are at one end. Anyway, that will allow you to measure the only adjustable value, the wide range sensor. Turn the adjusting screw until it reads about 1k ohms. I believe the fsm says anywhere between 800 and 1200, so you have some room. But make sure you set the idle first, especially if you have to turn the fast idle cam, because that will have a slight bearing on your tps settings.
#16
well this is my first rx7 . its a s5 with rebuilt motor 30k ago. the car runs fine starts fine . now the car makes good power at 3k or so but after 5k the car just has no power keeping reving up but nothign at all and u can hear a like very little cut outs too . so idk if my secondarys are clogged or not working . my idle jump from 700 down to 100 . and after i did 2 donuts i looked under the car and cat was glowing red a lil at idle.... also idk if tps would do that .let me know guys
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what was the status of the catalytic converter? And what happens when you try to adjust the idle? What does the fast idle set screw do? What does the airbleed do?
Why are you so sure it's your secondary injectors?
Why are you so sure it's your secondary injectors?
#18
idk im gonna have to cut the cat out then friday when i get paid . when i mess with ildle screw the idles goes up if i go too much down the idle start jumping from 700 all the way down and almost die , but i can set it for 1100 or so and it wont go down as much . werers the fast idle set screw? i only messed with the one on top of the motor
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The fast idle screw is towards the front of the throttle body on the top, right above the throttle linkage. There may or may not be a nut on it. It's in the picture below with a red arrow pointing at it. Loosen the nut and give the screw a 1/8 turn, blip the throttle and check the rpm. Get it as close as you can like that, then you can fine tune it with the other screw.
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VDI isn't a very noticeable difference, and you wouldn't even feel that until 6 or 7 grand.
But lets go back to where we should have started.
What mods if any?
Oh, and if your cat bolts in, don't cut it, just unbolt it. If your feeling ambitious and your area doesn't have emissions testing, then take a screwdriver and hammer and gut the cat. But that glowing combined with lowered power in the high ranges makes me think it's clogged.
But lets go back to where we should have started.
What mods if any?
Oh, and if your cat bolts in, don't cut it, just unbolt it. If your feeling ambitious and your area doesn't have emissions testing, then take a screwdriver and hammer and gut the cat. But that glowing combined with lowered power in the high ranges makes me think it's clogged.
#24
idk guy drove around all day , fixed the idle messed around with top screw . but still i feel like theres no power after 5k at all like it just keep reving , under load has no power , 5th gear it really slow under 60 mph or soo...idk guy tell me wat else to check , im gonna have to try cat , but can a cat really make u loose that much power
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Exhaust back pressure will kill your power. Shortly after the Haltech installation, I melted my cats on the '86 down to the point where the engine would not rev past 6500 RPM in the driveway in neutral. (I was making well in excess of 30 PSI exhaust backpressure.)
Anyway, I would take the exhaust off at the manifold and drive the car around the block. I seriously think you melted your cats down while doing donuts.
Please don't drive around the block too much for your neighbor's sake.
Here are the pictures I promised you:
Anyway, I would take the exhaust off at the manifold and drive the car around the block. I seriously think you melted your cats down while doing donuts.
Please don't drive around the block too much for your neighbor's sake.
Here are the pictures I promised you: