How To: Build a lower arm bar for under $15
#105
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honestly you guys are making this thing way too complicated. all i did was cut a piece of square tubing and put 2 holes in it. and 2 bolts thru holes already on the underside of the car. took like 5 minutes. and mine does the same thing as all your guys with the swivel points. although it looks like you guys do tht for an exhaust issue.
#106
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I put the bolts there to deal with the misalignment of where it bolts to the chassis on either side, because they aren't perfectly inline with each other, they're both pointing slightly "up" towards the middle of the car.
#107
great information. I am really appreciative of all the fabrication and performance work that I see on this forum. As I slowly get my car up and running, I hope to put a lot of these things into use.
#109
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honestly you guys are making this thing way too complicated. all i did was cut a piece of square tubing and put 2 holes in it. and 2 bolts thru holes already on the underside of the car. took like 5 minutes. and mine does the same thing as all your guys with the swivel points. although it looks like you guys do tht for an exhaust issue.
I resurrected this because I would hate for anyone to lose that bolt while driving. If this mod is going to fail you do NOT want it to be the bolts holding the A arms in.
#110
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Okay so if I were to put one of these bars on my car, be it I build one or buy one, is there a certain place that's best to jack the car up so I don't. Flex the front end to much so the bar if it's adjustable get put on right. I don't want to have to adjust it to put it on then find out that it's squeezing the bar or pulling on it to hard and strip the ends out of an adjustable bar.
#111
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I took a slightly different approach on mine. I welded tabs to the bushing cradle and threaded a piece of thickwall aluminum tubing, a couple of heim ends and done. I might make another with one left hand and one right hand heim ends to allow some preloading of the bar.
#113
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Mine is far from the lowest point on the car but you are correct, the tabs could be welded at a higher location that would not only solve any ground clearance issues but also work more efficiently as the load would be more direct. Mine is in the lower position for oil pan clearance (engine swap car)
#115
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KAL797
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08-11-15 03:47 PM