KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

As far as I know thats exactly what this bar is (you can look a few pages back to confirm), but better and stronger. I'm pretty sure thats part of the front subframe but if its not, you can take it off and put this one on but it likely won't be as stiff.

just startn

iTrader: (33)

thats exactly what i was looking for, see if it basically replaces it. Im about to do some research on it.

FC3S_nataku

iTrader: (3)

does anyone still sell the mazdaspeed bar? corksport doesnt have it listed anymore

FC3S_nataku

iTrader: (3)

and one more thing. does this bar do the same thing as the autoexe under bars that corksport sells?

thejallenator

iTrader: (14)

honestly you guys are making this thing way too complicated. all i did was cut a piece of square tubing and put 2 holes in it. and 2 bolts thru holes already on the underside of the car. took like 5 minutes. and mine does the same thing as all your guys with the swivel points. although it looks like you guys do tht for an exhaust issue.

Black91n/a

I put the bolts there to deal with the misalignment of where it bolts to the chassis on either side, because they aren't perfectly inline with each other, they're both pointing slightly "up" towards the middle of the car.

o-hi-o

great information. I am really appreciative of all the fabrication and performance work that I see on this forum. As I slowly get my car up and running, I hope to put a lot of these things into use.

TwEaK

iTrader: (6)

def looks like something ill be tackeling
Thanks
TwEaK

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

Do this, if you have to weld a bar under the mount point to clear the exhaust, do that instead. I'd be real nervous about those pivots because whenever there's tension or compression on the main bar there will be torque on the bolts to the frame in addition to the shear force. If you don't understand what I mean make two identical apparatuses like these with one fixed end each and apply enough force in the direction noted to break the bolt, or even just bend it. If your plate bends before the bolt then either you're using too thick a bolt or too thin a plate, BUT you would probably rather have the bar bend before the bolt at this point on the RX-7. Continuing with the example, you will have a HELL of a time getting the bolt to deform using purely shear force versus torquing on it.



I resurrected this because I would hate for anyone to lose that bolt while driving. If this mod is going to fail you do NOT want it to be the bolts holding the A arms in.

Rx-7fetish

Okay so if I were to put one of these bars on my car, be it I build one or buy one, is there a certain place that's best to jack the car up so I don't. Flex the front end to much so the bar if it's adjustable get put on right. I don't want to have to adjust it to put it on then find out that it's squeezing the bar or pulling on it to hard and strip the ends out of an adjustable bar.

tinner

iTrader: (2)

I took a slightly different approach on mine. I welded tabs to the bushing cradle and threaded a piece of thickwall aluminum tubing, a couple of heim ends and done. I might make another with one left hand and one right hand heim ends to allow some preloading of the bar.

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

^^^ much better implementation. How is yours for ground clearance though? Others could simply be welded higher, too, if need be.

tinner

iTrader: (2)

Mine is far from the lowest point on the car but you are correct, the tabs could be welded at a higher location that would not only solve any ground clearance issues but also work more efficiently as the load would be more direct. Mine is in the lower position for oil pan clearance (engine swap car)

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

id like to see your air dam/under tray, but i suppose that would be for a new thread

tinner

iTrader: (2)

http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=4555.15

About half way down.