Yanno I've done a million brake jobs but these rotors are really annoying. I've got the GXL 5 lug discs and I can't get the damn things off? I noticed the three screw holes on the back is some sort of special tool needed?

Help me out here guys I'm go'n nuts.....


Thanks
Adam

 

dude, after you get the wheel off, take the master cylinder off, its held in place by 2 bolts on the back of the calipers. after you take that off, you need to remove the 2 philips screws on the disk, they will be hard, since they have been there for many years, put a hammer to the side and bang it alittle, they should come right off after that, i did that after i got my cross drilled ones

 

After you remove the caliper and the phillips screws, even if you need to drill them out as they are not needed, put the lug nuts on the studs to protect the threads and hit the flat part of the rotor all around the studs. This is where the rust has accumulated, so you trying to break it up. It'll come.

 

a lot of wd40 helps

 

I think thats my prob.... I did remove the screws no prob, theres just so much rust I'll let it soak I'm done for the night...

Farg'n up north cars.....

 

to remove the screws:
use an IMPACT Screw Driver ($20 at sears or $6 at harbor freight)

then the fun starts.
I have been unable to get mine off my 88 vert. last thing I tried was whacking with a 5lb hammer, but I was hitting behind the rotor on the edge.
I will try hitting the center.

where would you spray the wd40?

 

on the center hub, to dissolve some of the rust. i had to take a hammer to my old ones when trying to get them off.

 

In the garage I work in, there's a 20 ton bottle jack. Those rotors couldn't WAIT to come off.

 

mine were stuck really good, all I had to do was run a bolt in the empty hole on the rotor, popped them right off

 

heh this is a fear i have right now, i want to get a set of new rotors but every time i look at the screws i get the creeps cos there is so much rust. i'll give the wd40 a shot and see what happens. since we are on the subject does anyone have and good recomendations for rotors?

 

WD40 won't do much.. Get some liquid wrench...

 

just take the screws out with an impact screwdriver, and hit the edges of the rotor on both sides with a hammer...

if that doesnt work, try taking a bolt and putting it in the unused hole on the rotor and tightening it down to pop it off...

and remember pb blaster is your friend

 

Where is this extra bolt hole? All I see are the 2 screw holes and the 5 lug holes? I thought the 4 lug discs were the ones with the extra bolt hole? Do you mean the three really small bolt holes on the back side?

I've had this ***** soaking in blaster all night and I got out the 5lb sledge... It's actually knocking the studs out instead of moving the disc.

 

how can you see the "back" if you dont have the disk off already... if the disk is still on the hub the back is pressed up against the hub (and the rest of the back should be blocked by dust sheilds)

and you shouldnt be hitting the studs at all, they arent holding the rotor on

 

Lets not forger to clean these brake parts very well with brake cleaner after all this soaking with WD and LR...
CW

 

I have the entire hub off the car. I went ahead and replaced the upper and lower ball joints and bearings. The hub is to badly rusted into the disc. I managed to crack them both trying to beat them apart with a 5lb sledge. Anyway looks like I'll be buying a new one. Thanks for all tehe help this one was just to far gone.

 

Are the OEM rear brake rotors vented or solid?

 

It depends on what model you have. Some came stock with solid rear rotors, and others had vented ones. I have a Sport and it has vented rotors. And for the other guy having trouble with his rotor. I have the 5 lug hubs and my rotors had the small extra hole in them. So your should have it also. It really makes it a lot easier to pop the rotor off with an extra bolt in that hole.

 

Opps forgot to add an 88Tii So are they? Thanks

 

Vented