I noticed that every question about hot starting problems,get's the "replace your injectors" answer.I have replace my injector,fuel filter,plugs,wires,Temp sensor in the thermostat housing.I tested the vaccume selinoid for the FPR and it works! I tested the intake air temp sensor in the diffision chamber and it's within spec! I noticed that after the car was warmed up to operating temp and then shut off and allowed to cool for 30-45 min.The line running to the FPR is not suppost to have any vaccume to it for 90seconds after starting while the engine is hot.This no vaccume state is suppost to raise fuel pressure in the rail to assist with starting the hot engine.So my questions are....Is there a transistor in the ECU that controls this operation? Can it burn out?Is there another temp sensor that adds to the mix?Can a FPR become stuck? Where can I find a schematic for the ECU..I have already searched the FSM? I for one have become sick of this hot start problem and also have become tired of costly repairs for a possibly overlooked simple fix to this problem.And for the record I have heard the argument of low compression.Let us put our heads togrther on this one and solve it once and for all!

 

Well, if you have a fuel pressure gauge, you could probably figure out what's wrong: leaking injectors or fuel pressure not correct etc. I think the HAYNES manual has good stuff for testing the fuel system.

You could bypass the solenoid that controls the vacuum to the FPR and connect the vacuum line directly to the FPR. Many pple run this setup and don't have pb with hot starting. If your car have a tendency to flood, I am not sure having maximum fuel pressure when hot starting is the best possible thing.

I hate to bring this up but not so good compression can give you similar symptoms. What kinda vacuum are you pulling at idle (750-800 rpms)? if you're under 14-15 in (s4 na), it's not that great.

Hugues -

 

I finally solved my hot start problems.

Bought an inductive timing light and set the timing correctly (was way off, yet ran fine). Also, re-soldered the ECU. My car doesn't flood now when trying to start. Before it would flood horribly and take 10 min. to unflood. I, too, had my injectors serviced (X-mas present) and it helped with idle and over-all driving performance, but didn't help the starting.

My advice would be to check the timing, set the TPS adjustment correctly, and resolder the ECU. Other than that, you seem to have covered every other option like I did.

I had also replaced plugs, fuel filter, O2 sensor, swapped TPS with my spare from the parts car, cleaned and swapped BAC valves too. But, mine starts now.

Good luck.

 

I guess I should start with the basics most of my vac lines are factory ie 21 years old.When I removed my intake to clean the 5th and 6th ports I replaced the lim gasket and the uim gasket.As far as a compression test all I have is a cheap matco tester with a check valve.I did a compression test once cold and once hot.The problem with using a piston gauge is you can't get the right readings.All
I saw with the check valve removed was even bounces of like 30 or more,I will go out in the morning and try a comp test again.The very first time I had a hot start/flooding problem the car went to a service garage that quote un quote knows rotary.The ***** that worked on the 7 said he could not do a comp test he didn't have the right comp gauge.He said the engine was probley junk and I should get a rebuild.That was 60,000 miles ago.The timing has never been checked the ***** at the shop said he didn't have the right timing light.For $300 the cleaned the plugs and un flooded the engine with no clue how they did it or what caused a good running car to **** out.Since that time I have tryed to learn as much as I can and use that knowledge to save my 7 from hacks.I live in and area of red neck hell most of the hack techs in this area have no Idea how a rotary works let alone how a fuel-injected car operates.These guys are all v8 gasoline junkys!Carb it or junk it,these guys all laugh at me and my rubber band car.Telling me their story of how much better their v8 boinger is.I for one have never owned a piston powered car,nor will I ever! If only I could find a rotary bike,I would be complete,suzuki built one!My first rotary was a flymo lawn mower with a wankle 1 rotor.This mower had so much nut the mower would hover.I bet it was dangerous to have a spinning blade floating like it did,especially dangrous on hills.Well I got all side tracked...Thank you for the advice and I will do as I have been told. #1 check compression,#2 check timing #3 adjust TPS for the 500 time! Thak you again,and I'll keep you posted

 

no prob.

Keep us posted (oh, and I replaced all my Vac lines with silicon vac lines). You can get a cheap kit from a local Autozone. They sold one with 6mm, 8mm, 10mm lines for $15.99 + tax.

Worked nicely and now my engine bay is dressed up slightly.

If you really search, the Suzuki rotary-powered motorcycles are available and if you are a real glutton for punishment, Arctic Cat made a 10A powered rotary Panther back in the early 70s. All the part numbers are since discontinued, but you may be able to resurrect one with alot of luck.