Holy crap! There goes my rebuild.
09-22-14, 01:51 AM
#1
Holy crap! There goes my rebuild.
Well I got the engine ready to be pulled. Disconnected the oil cooler lines and drained the oil. The oil looked a little funny and I got a flashlight and shined it on the oil. Glitter! Glitter everywhere. 
. I'm guessing the bearings inside of it are shot. Oil pump failure?
I had noticed the oil pressure gauge always ran low and one day I noticed it had just quit. I figured the sending unit had died. Now I'm guessing it was accurate all along. My fault. Weird thing is with zero oil pressure it still drive 100 or so miles? Doesn't make sense? Any ideas?
Here is what I came up with. Car was bought with unknown engine origin. I know a factory engine wouldn't do this.
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/damage.htm
. I'm guessing the bearings inside of it are shot. Oil pump failure? I had noticed the oil pressure gauge always ran low and one day I noticed it had just quit. I figured the sending unit had died. Now I'm guessing it was accurate all along. My fault. Weird thing is with zero oil pressure it still drive 100 or so miles? Doesn't make sense? Any ideas?
Here is what I came up with. Car was bought with unknown engine origin. I know a factory engine wouldn't do this.
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/damage.htm
09-22-14, 06:23 AM
#4
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My buddy had an 6 port turbo conversion that ran real nice..
Up until the point it just quit moving it out of the garage.
He had blocked off the oil at the sandwich adapter and starved it,so it Stuck it the rotor bearing right to the Eshaft.
So ya you can drive it without oil pressure.
You just found out "how long".
Up until the point it just quit moving it out of the garage.
He had blocked off the oil at the sandwich adapter and starved it,so it Stuck it the rotor bearing right to the Eshaft.
So ya you can drive it without oil pressure.
You just found out "how long".
09-22-14, 12:17 PM
#6
My buddy had an 6 port turbo conversion that ran real nice..
Up until the point it just quit moving it out of the garage.
He had blocked off the oil at the sandwich adapter and starved it,so it Stuck it the rotor bearing right to the Eshaft.
So ya you can drive it without oil pressure.
You just found out "how long".
Up until the point it just quit moving it out of the garage.
He had blocked off the oil at the sandwich adapter and starved it,so it Stuck it the rotor bearing right to the Eshaft.
So ya you can drive it without oil pressure.
You just found out "how long".
09-22-14, 01:45 PM
#8
Information Regurgitator
Mazdatrix: https://www.mazdatrix.com/ftools.htm
Or I picked up a 2&1/8 inch socket and 3/4 to 1/2 drive adapter from tractor supply. This was for re-assembly. I took my block to a diesel garage and had them impact it off( though I think my gun would do it I didn't have a socket at the time). You'll still need a tool to keep the motor from turning unless you get it impacted off, but you'll need it for reassembly anyway.
Or I picked up a 2&1/8 inch socket and 3/4 to 1/2 drive adapter from tractor supply. This was for re-assembly. I took my block to a diesel garage and had them impact it off( though I think my gun would do it I didn't have a socket at the time). You'll still need a tool to keep the motor from turning unless you get it impacted off, but you'll need it for reassembly anyway.
09-22-14, 02:32 PM
#9
MECP Certified Installer
09-22-14, 02:37 PM
#10
Mazdatrix: https://www.mazdatrix.com/ftools.htm
Or I picked up a 2&1/8 inch socket and 3/4 to 1/2 drive adapter from tractor supply. This was for re-assembly. I took my block to a diesel garage and had them impact it off( though I think my gun would do it I didn't have a socket at the time). You'll still need a tool to keep the motor from turning unless you get it impacted off, but you'll need it for reassembly anyway.
Or I picked up a 2&1/8 inch socket and 3/4 to 1/2 drive adapter from tractor supply. This was for re-assembly. I took my block to a diesel garage and had them impact it off( though I think my gun would do it I didn't have a socket at the time). You'll still need a tool to keep the motor from turning unless you get it impacted off, but you'll need it for reassembly anyway.
09-23-14, 02:49 AM
#12
talking head
bearings are a bit more than that ,, $30 each for rotors and $35 each for stats // $130 minimum without post
,, and add about $150 for the decent atkins full height dollys for pressing yourself
not including the torringtons or options for FD or 3 window or race groove bearings
skill wise ,, not too hard , just need to scribe a line to line up the locking tab
but that is for basic bearings,, replacements for those that have not yet turned inside the rotor or stat gear
else you may need some custom bearings ( goopy sells an oversize for turned rotor bearings )
or maybe a grub lock mod or snap ring to fix that properly
the motor itself has likely run with no oil
so expect that bearings have died, maybe turned in the rotor or stat thus making the dis assembly very difficult
and also that the oil pump is shot,, and the plates blued and shrunk
housings may be good .. but that may be the only bits that are salvageable
ask me how i know
no.. dont ..
,, and add about $150 for the decent atkins full height dollys for pressing yourself
not including the torringtons or options for FD or 3 window or race groove bearings
skill wise ,, not too hard , just need to scribe a line to line up the locking tab
but that is for basic bearings,, replacements for those that have not yet turned inside the rotor or stat gear
else you may need some custom bearings ( goopy sells an oversize for turned rotor bearings )
or maybe a grub lock mod or snap ring to fix that properly
the motor itself has likely run with no oil
so expect that bearings have died, maybe turned in the rotor or stat thus making the dis assembly very difficult
and also that the oil pump is shot,, and the plates blued and shrunk
housings may be good .. but that may be the only bits that are salvageable
ask me how i know
no.. dont ..
09-23-14, 12:57 PM
#13
bearings are a bit more than that ,, $30 each for rotors and $35 each for stats // $130 minimum without post
,, and add about $150 for the decent atkins full height dollys for pressing yourself
not including the torringtons or options for FD or 3 window or race groove bearings
skill wise ,, not too hard , just need to scribe a line to line up the locking tab
but that is for basic bearings,, replacements for those that have not yet turned inside the rotor or stat gear
else you may need some custom bearings ( goopy sells an oversize for turned rotor bearings )
or maybe a grub lock mod or snap ring to fix that properly
the motor itself has likely run with no oil
so expect that bearings have died, maybe turned in the rotor or stat thus making the dis assembly very difficult
and also that the oil pump is shot,, and the plates blued and shrunk
housings may be good .. but that may be the only bits that are salvageable
ask me how i know
no.. dont ..
,, and add about $150 for the decent atkins full height dollys for pressing yourself
not including the torringtons or options for FD or 3 window or race groove bearings
skill wise ,, not too hard , just need to scribe a line to line up the locking tab
but that is for basic bearings,, replacements for those that have not yet turned inside the rotor or stat gear
else you may need some custom bearings ( goopy sells an oversize for turned rotor bearings )
or maybe a grub lock mod or snap ring to fix that properly
the motor itself has likely run with no oil
so expect that bearings have died, maybe turned in the rotor or stat thus making the dis assembly very difficult
and also that the oil pump is shot,, and the plates blued and shrunk
housings may be good .. but that may be the only bits that are salvageable
ask me how i know
no.. dont ..
09-23-14, 06:41 PM
#14
talking head
yes .. if run dry the irons blue and shrink and also the side seals on the rotor wear quickly
the rotor may or may not be salvageable , depends if bearings turned or if side seals fused into the rotors
housings pulled up OK . so some smiles
.. myself always had a healthy dose of spare blocks to draw parts from , last count is at least 7 NA FC blocks and almost as many turbo ones ( among about 20 early 12a/ 13b blocks )
the rotor may or may not be salvageable , depends if bearings turned or if side seals fused into the rotors
housings pulled up OK . so some smiles
.. myself always had a healthy dose of spare blocks to draw parts from , last count is at least 7 NA FC blocks and almost as many turbo ones ( among about 20 early 12a/ 13b blocks )
09-23-14, 07:34 PM
#15
yes .. if run dry the irons blue and shrink and also the side seals on the rotor wear quickly
the rotor may or may not be salvageable , depends if bearings turned or if side seals fused into the rotors
housings pulled up OK . so some smiles
.. myself always had a healthy dose of spare blocks to draw parts from , last count is at least 7 NA FC blocks and almost as many turbo ones ( among about 20 early 12a/ 13b blocks )
the rotor may or may not be salvageable , depends if bearings turned or if side seals fused into the rotors
housings pulled up OK . so some smiles
.. myself always had a healthy dose of spare blocks to draw parts from , last count is at least 7 NA FC blocks and almost as many turbo ones ( among about 20 early 12a/ 13b blocks )
09-23-14, 07:39 PM
#16
Weird I was apart of this thread and didn't even know it ... Looks at Styx, lol
Tear it down after my front stationary gear failed to the eshaft I dissadembled the block, everthing including the rotor bearings are fine had little glitter in the oil, but take it apart and inspect everything!
Tear it down after my front stationary gear failed to the eshaft I dissadembled the block, everthing including the rotor bearings are fine had little glitter in the oil, but take it apart and inspect everything!
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