just wondering which would be best for our cars. n/a 13b 6-port, streetport, cold air intake, header, exhaust, 6pi wired(unfortunately), vdi disabled (unfortunately), acv removed and air pump removed(hence no 6pi and vdi). it runs lean unless at idle or over 6000rpm, then its ok but other than that lean. have a pair of 550 turbo injectors i was going to try in primarys, but not sure if thats gonna help me. so was thinking about a fuel controller. any ideas?

 

Why not put in a air pump? need that 1 horsie?

If I recall the stock ecu can't run other injectors properly

http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.ph...age=2&ecu=S5NA

This will probably help you has presets to run different primary/sec injectors, the vdi if i recall helps alot, I could feel the 6port functioning and the vdi (forget which rpm) would make it scream to 8k rpm

it'd probably help to get both rtek & a fuel controller to fine tune

 

I'm running 550/680 on my n/a ecu. But then again i'm turbo'd. But also the engine went boom boom. But the safc II would control the 550 in the rear perfectly fine.

Also how do you know your running lean? Do you have a wideband? If you don't get one.

 

question was which fuel conreoller works better with our cars?

 

They all work well, its just your personal preference. I initially owned a s-afc and found it pretty easy to use, and very easy to install.

And BTW, you should really put the airpump back in..... you just lost about 30hp doing that.

 

if i had the airpump i would put it back in. previous owner removed it and 6pi actuaters. so i cant put them back. does anyone know about the hks afr? its just a little box with a dial. can i still set afr at different rpms or does it adjust straight across rpm range? the hks is way cheaper but cant get info on rpm points or anything.

 

Look into the Rtek for the S5 N/A as well. There are plenty of ways to make your 6PI & VDI work properly without the air pump. You just have to search a little. I used to have mine controlled with a modified 12vdc air compressor.

 

the turbo injectors wont help. if you want to spend some cash, buy a used ACV, actuators, and air pump. if you put that all together correctly with the rats nest and whatnot you will be very happy with the results.

after this you can then plan on getting a modern afc controller like a apex super and tune from there to squeeze and few more HP out.

 

ya i've seen the threads on 12 volt compressors. seems kinda hokey to me. i'd rather run a rpm window switch to an eletric motor of somekind to open the 6pi's. like a nitrous bottle remote opener. what kind of money for rtek?

 

In almost all cases, best performance is gained by using the smallest fuel injectors that are able to supply the engine with the needed fuel.

The Motec M8 series EMS has shown the best results so far.

If you just want a cheap piggyback fuel computer, then I recommend getting whatever your local professional RX-7 tuner recommends.

 

If you just want a cheap piggyback fuel computer, then I recommend getting whatever your local professional RX-7 tuner recommends.[/QUOTE]


hahaha. thats funny. local rx tuner. i live 7 hrs from the closest rotary shop. i think maybe safc, but am goint to look into the motec.

 

If you are good with electrical stuff a Megasquirt only costs a little more than an SAFC and is a full standalone.

 

ya, i've seen those megasquirt kits that you put together yourself. i could handle that. i was looking at them when i turbo'd my sunfire(turbo sunflower. lol. hauled at 10psi intercooled for a j-body anyway. could outrun my buddies skyline gts t) i hadnt thought about the megasquirt since then.

 

Why not just run an rtek? It's a stock ecu that you have upgraded so you can tune it. No new wiring or anything. That's about as easy as it can get.

 

ya. rtek stage 2 would be what i'd need then right? the stage 1 only lets u bypass mop. its still double what u can get a safc for. just want it running right. dont have a lot of coin to work with right now either.

 

Safc is very limited in what it can do as you can really only play with fuel. For a little bit more money, the stage 2 rtek would be the way to go. You essentially get full ignition and fuel control and can even raise your rev limit if you need to. You can use different sized injectors as well. It's a far better solution.

Do you have a wideband O2 sensor installed?

 

currently no wideband. i know narrow band doesnt give accurate readings but still, i should show more than 13 mV while driving. 700-900 mV at idle and above 6000rpm when you stand on it. i can also feel it and hear it when it leans out. been too lazy to put wideband in yet. no fuel controller so no need for it yet i guess is what im thinking.

 

i just cant figure out why so lean. put 2 diff o2 sensors in, new tps, spent days on end ******* with tps to adjust it, hours going over vac lines and such. running out of ideas other than fuel controller to get it back to where it should be. the narrowband should at least cycle when cruising. not hold 13mV. thought maybe porting, exhaust, etc might require more fuel added anyway. need to get this thing running good cuz my first gen either blew an apex or has a stuck apex or something. it lost power and shakes like crazy. and it happened all of a sudden. trying not to look too hard at it right now incase seal is blown. i'll cry if it is. i love my 1st gen. my fc is a old track ****.