Phower

I have 4 gauges, cheap type with fancy lights. I think they are working as they should. In the a-column i have water temp and turbo pressure, and under the stereo i have made a plate and fitted oil temp and oil pressure.

The oil temp and pressure i get from an adapter plate under the oil filter mount.

And to get the correct water temp i drilled a hole in the thermostat housing directly opposite to the original sensor.

I have a big FMIC and stock radiator and oil cooler, i have removed the original fan and the plastic sorrounding thats bolted to the radiator and the plastic rock spring protector underneath the front.

To the stock radiator i have bolted a dual electrical fan that covers the whole radiator. Its not thermo-switch regulated. I have only connected the fan to a manual switch inside the car. So i drive with it constantly on when im driving on track or any "spirited" driving.

Heres the catch: After 4 rounds on a very small track i have 98 degrees C water temp (208 degrees F) and 120 C (248 F) oil temp and with spirited driving on the normal road my oil and water temperatures rise very fast.

Is all this just because i have ruined the air flow to the oil cooler and radiator thats not standing veritcal - with an enormous 100% vertical intercooler?

Mine is the red vert


Water temperature sensor


FMIC placement

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

your blocking tons of air into the radiator dude.
also your inter cooler is inefficient.
also, the fact that you have to keep that fan running means something else also. it must not move that much air.

put the stock top mount back on, and then youll be fine.

how much boost you running?

RETed

You NEED an upgrade radiator.
The stock radiator is not enough.


-Ted

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Those temps are definitely high.

The problems I see with your typical set up are that the intercooler is far from your radiator and oil cooler. The airflow velocity really drops off after penetrating the intercooler and further stagnates in the large volume between the intercooler and radiator/oil cooler.

This situation is further exacerbated by the use of a small stock radiator.

If you want to keep using the front mount intercooler you may consider placing it where the stock radiator was and putting a larger radiator stacked right behind the intercooler with the oil cooler below the intercooler right against the radiator as well.

Air will penetrate the stacked cores more easily, you will have a larger radiator and the oil cooler airflow will be unobstructed.

JunpoweR

iTrader: (1)

That intercooler will cut half of the air going to your oil cooler and radiator!
I always was against FMIC go v mount and get a larger radiator and oil cooler.
Also get a single large e-fan and are you sure your e fan has enough CFM?

TongassT

+1 to the larger radiator.

Also put the plastic undertray back on. Seal any gaps that will prevent air from flowing from the front of the car through the radiator.

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

Exactly my experience, except that I did had a Koyo radiator, and the bottom plastic cover. In my case, the problem was the oil temps, which would get so high, that the coolant temp would start to climb.


That's good info right there, wish I would've known that back then. I would certainly keep it in mind, if I decicde to mess with it again

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

You need more radiator, and ducting to direct some airflow to the oil cooler.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Question: did you drill and tap that sensor while the waterpump was on the car or did you do it while it was off?

Is it easily clearing the thermostat operation?

Details please!

That's the first time I have seen that on the front of the waterpump. I have been waiting to put my sensor in when I need a new water pump. Now it looks like I can do this this weekend!

Boost Lee

iTrader: (3)

I think you'll also want to block the hood where the stock top mount received it's air. Air entering through that inlet will change the pressure difference between the front of your radiator and the rear of your radiator.


As we all know fluids (air too) move from high to low pressure. And if the pressure across the back of the radiator is near the pressure across the front of your radiator, you get minimal air flow THROUGH your radiator. So make sure all the ducting is in place, especially the bottom cover. Close off the hood scoop on the bottom side (use a piece of sheet metal then just bolt it up. Then spend some time ensuring that the air that goes through the FMIC has no where to go except.... through the radiator.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

can you prove this in any way? ive never heard of it.

certifiednut

i would say upgrade you radiator, put an undertray (if you dont already have one) to keep the air moving through the radiator, and make sure your fan moves enough air, alot of aftermarket fans dont move enough air to keep these cars cool.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

There's a diagram floating around here somewhere that shows the airflow over the body and the amount of air pressure in different spots.
He's absolutely correct about the need for pressure differential.

While doing some other stuff today- which necessitated removing the hood- I ended up doing a short highway run with the engine open.
Water and oil temps were both significantly higher (approx. 20°)...my guess is that a high pressure area was forming behind the rad and stopping the flow from the nose intake.
Just a guess though, obviously I haven't the means to do even semi-halfassed aerodynamic testing.
That said, IIRC the area of lowest pressure was at the trailing end of the hood (by the windshield) and I can't help but wonder if some vents back there might not act like extractors for the whole engine bay.

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

The rear of the hood is a high pressure zone, think cowl hood on muscle cars.

JunpoweR

iTrader: (1)

FOOLing around

AlexG13B

iTrader: (7)

using the black radiator panels? i hear that helps out alot also.

Boost Lee

iTrader: (3)

Take a look at this article:
http://www.autospeed.com/A_2159/cms/article.html

T2 vert

iTrader: (5)

I had heard about the blocking the stock hood scoop with a FMIC to help with cooling. So I decided to run a little test to see how much it would help. The outside air temp was 98F. I ran about 65mph for 5 miles stopped and put some foam into the opening of the scoop. Ran another 5 mile. My temp was 4F lower with the scoop blocked. I did this several times on two different days. And the temp was always lower with the scoop blocked. My temp gauge is a Defi with the probe just before the thermostat. YMMV

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I have my large Greddy 3 row mounted in front, and I was using the stock clutch fan. With a Fluidyne aluminum radiator (with stock plastic undertray) I didn't have heating problems at all... rock solid at 87C. But first I had to get all the air out of the system. It's easy to have a stubborn pocket in there.

AlexG13B

iTrader: (7)

what about ur oil temps^?

Phower

Its not in the water pump, its in the thermostat housing.

I took out the thermostat, put some paper down below to collect the metal. And drilled just on the oposite side from the origininal water temp sensor. And then tapped it.

Thanks for all the feedback. Gonna mix the different tips to get a good sollution