High oil pressure
03-21-11, 09:36 AM
#1
Think with your dipstick!
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High oil pressure
I've searched for this topic, but I could not find a thread with a similar issue as mine. So here's the problem, when I drive my FC the oil pressure is around 100 and at idle it is at 80. After 5 to 10 minutes of driving, a huge cloud of whitish blue smokes pours out the exhaust to the point when i can't see the car behind me. However, it stops after 3 to 5 minutes. When I park my FC you can see puddles of oil on the ground ( I have two exhaust leaks).
03-21-11, 10:44 AM
#2
high oil pressure will cause oil seepage through the oil controls rings and burn with the combustion.
It will also cause high blowby in the oil system.
Oil passage is blocked or something, or something is wrong with the rear oil regulator to make the oil pressure go that high, you should verify the oil pressure with a oil pressure tester just to make sure nothing is wrong with the sender or the stock gauge.
It will also cause high blowby in the oil system.
Oil passage is blocked or something, or something is wrong with the rear oil regulator to make the oil pressure go that high, you should verify the oil pressure with a oil pressure tester just to make sure nothing is wrong with the sender or the stock gauge.
03-21-11, 12:59 PM
#4
I just looked at the video when of we got the thing running, and it looks like it's always been that high. 80 PSI at idle, and climbing when revved. Never smoked before saturday, though. Figures - that was it's first drive in over 10 years, given the "99" date on the registration sticker.
I'll put a mechanical gauge on it temporarily this week to check actual pressure.
(I'm helping Turbo_7 fix this car up.)
Manual says 64-78 PSI @ 3000 RPM.
It looks like the Oil Pressure Control Valve is easy enough, aside from having to drain the oil and remove the oil pan. the irony here is that the engine was on a stand and the pan was off just a few months ago.
Would the Eccentric Shaft Bypass Valve play a part in this?
There's also an Oil Pressure Regulator Valve in the pan at the rear of the engine. Better check that, too. The troubleshooting guide doesn't have an item for "too high oil pressure," just too low.
Looking closer at the manual, it appears that the Control Valve is only a relief for extremely high pressure (it opens at 156 PSI!,) so the Regulator Valve is the likely culprit, if the pressure really is that high. Possible that the Regulator Valve is stuck or clogged.
I'll put a mechanical gauge on it temporarily this week to check actual pressure.
(I'm helping Turbo_7 fix this car up.)
Manual says 64-78 PSI @ 3000 RPM.
It looks like the Oil Pressure Control Valve is easy enough, aside from having to drain the oil and remove the oil pan. the irony here is that the engine was on a stand and the pan was off just a few months ago.
Would the Eccentric Shaft Bypass Valve play a part in this?
There's also an Oil Pressure Regulator Valve in the pan at the rear of the engine. Better check that, too. The troubleshooting guide doesn't have an item for "too high oil pressure," just too low.
Looking closer at the manual, it appears that the Control Valve is only a relief for extremely high pressure (it opens at 156 PSI!,) so the Regulator Valve is the likely culprit, if the pressure really is that high. Possible that the Regulator Valve is stuck or clogged.
Last edited by Frankenrex; 03-21-11 at 01:04 PM. Reason: added content
03-21-11, 02:34 PM
#6
If the oil control rings are worn out high oil pressure will leak through the rings.
You will probably have to replace the oil regulator on the rear iron.
drop the oil pan, and the passenger engine mount.
You will need a 26mm wrench or a very thin 26mm socket. I bought a 26mm wrench from craftsman and there is only 1-2 ways to get the wrench on it, close end will not fit, had to use the open end. Might have to grind the wrench thin enough to make it fit and turn.
But before going through the headache of removing it, check the pressure with a tester and then go on from there.
If the pressure is nominal then the oil rings are probably bad
If the car has been sitting since 99 (damn), the oil rings are probably bad.
You will probably have to replace the oil regulator on the rear iron.
drop the oil pan, and the passenger engine mount.
You will need a 26mm wrench or a very thin 26mm socket. I bought a 26mm wrench from craftsman and there is only 1-2 ways to get the wrench on it, close end will not fit, had to use the open end. Might have to grind the wrench thin enough to make it fit and turn.
But before going through the headache of removing it, check the pressure with a tester and then go on from there.
If the pressure is nominal then the oil rings are probably bad
If the car has been sitting since 99 (damn), the oil rings are probably bad.
03-21-11, 10:36 PM
#7
Funny thing is, it idled, altogether, at least a couple of hours with no problem. then it decided to smoke on the second drive. Then it quit smoking. Then it smoked again after starting it again after being parked for a while.
This after we spent several months, part time, getting the engine back in and everything operational.
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03-21-11, 11:11 PM
#8
talking head
sounds like it has a modded or FD reg in it,, normal
smoke after 5 minutes,, and puddle on ground is usually the result of a crankcase vent system that is blocked off or faulty,, it can cause good turbos to smoke badly by limiting the drain back to the sump and in some situations force the oil control rings to pass to the inlet port under high vacuums and high sump space backpressure
usually to prove its the crankcase venting,, you remove the rubber seal from the oil cap and screw it on lightly
( so it cannot seal and pressurise )
\
if this cures the smoking on decel issues ,, you know for sure you need a new purge control valve and to plump it correctly
smoke after 5 minutes,, and puddle on ground is usually the result of a crankcase vent system that is blocked off or faulty,, it can cause good turbos to smoke badly by limiting the drain back to the sump and in some situations force the oil control rings to pass to the inlet port under high vacuums and high sump space backpressure
usually to prove its the crankcase venting,, you remove the rubber seal from the oil cap and screw it on lightly
( so it cannot seal and pressurise )
\
if this cures the smoking on decel issues ,, you know for sure you need a new purge control valve and to plump it correctly
03-22-11, 11:08 AM
#9
Unlikely - this car is about as bone-stock as they come. Actually in really good shape, but it did sit for 10 years.
Does this still apply if its a NA? Base model '86.
smoke after 5 minutes,, and puddle on ground is usually the result of a crankcase vent system that is blocked off or faulty,, it can cause good turbos to smoke badly by limiting the drain back to the sump and in some situations force the oil control rings to pass to the inlet port under high vacuums and high sump space backpressure
usually to prove its the crankcase venting,, you remove the rubber seal from the oil cap and screw it on lightly
( so it cannot seal and pressurise )
\
if this cures the smoking on decel issues ,, you know for sure you need a new purge control valve and to plump it correctly
usually to prove its the crankcase venting,, you remove the rubber seal from the oil cap and screw it on lightly
( so it cannot seal and pressurise )
\
if this cures the smoking on decel issues ,, you know for sure you need a new purge control valve and to plump it correctly
03-22-11, 06:41 PM
#10
talking head
yes NA will still pressurize the sump space if the breather gear is tossed, blanked or faulty
this is a very common fault,, even shops make this monumental boo-boo
this is a very common fault,, even shops make this monumental boo-boo
03-25-11, 11:10 AM
#12
OK, got a mechanical oil pressure gauge on there. The factory gauge is apparently reading high. Cold, higher RPM pressure never topped 70 PSI or so. Hot idle was 20-30 PSI. So pretty much normal. Better hot idle pressure than my '90 actually, but I'm also using the factory gauge.
As far as the purge valve, it appears to be working - I can feel it drawing vacuum on decell when revved. In any case, popping off that breather line from the oil fill tube and loosening the fill cap so that it's just barely on there didn't appear to make any difference to the smoke.
Eventually, the smoke lessened, on its own, as far as I can tell. It actually stopped after I shut the car off, then restarted after topping up the oil (2 quarts low!), then it started smoking again.
I have no idea what the deal is. I suspect the oil control rings, but why does it stop, if that's the case?
I wonder if a little Marvel Mystery Oil or Sea-foam in the sump would help? Or maybe that mechanic-in-a-can seal-swelling stuff?
As far as the purge valve, it appears to be working - I can feel it drawing vacuum on decell when revved. In any case, popping off that breather line from the oil fill tube and loosening the fill cap so that it's just barely on there didn't appear to make any difference to the smoke.
Eventually, the smoke lessened, on its own, as far as I can tell. It actually stopped after I shut the car off, then restarted after topping up the oil (2 quarts low!), then it started smoking again.
I have no idea what the deal is. I suspect the oil control rings, but why does it stop, if that's the case?
I wonder if a little Marvel Mystery Oil or Sea-foam in the sump would help? Or maybe that mechanic-in-a-can seal-swelling stuff?
03-25-11, 08:40 PM
#13
Think with your dipstick!
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Something like this? https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...+control+rings.
03-26-11, 02:21 AM
#15
Something like this? https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...+control+rings.
Worth a try. I'll pick up a bottle when I go get wiper blades for my Cutlass. And some more oil.
Still hope. It ticks me off - this thing was running so well before the smoke and hesitation. Idles was smooth. Even now it has good power up to the hesitation at 3500-3800, but with any luck, that's grounding.
03-28-11, 10:23 AM
#16
OK, still smokes, but sometimes not. Engine sealer says it takes up to 200 miles to work, and this one's not being driven yet, so, a lot of idling and clandestine test drives (no tags, insurance, inspection...)
I did find one problem - the boost sensor vacuum line got disconnected somewhere along the way. hooked that back up, and idle is nice and smooth again. No idea if that had anything to do with the smoke - it did seem less after, and I was able to drive i around a mile or two with no smoke. We'll see.
I did find one problem - the boost sensor vacuum line got disconnected somewhere along the way. hooked that back up, and idle is nice and smooth again. No idea if that had anything to do with the smoke - it did seem less after, and I was able to drive i around a mile or two with no smoke. We'll see.
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