i have been trying to find info on running a turbo on a streetported 6 port 13b with high compression rotors im wanting to do this on my 2nd gen but i have hears that it is not a good idea and would most likely blow my motor but i have also heard with proper tuning and low boost it could work so im asking is it possible to turbo a high compression motor safely?

 

Yes, the engine would also run better than a low comp engine.

It's safer to run lower comp rotors with turbos but if you do everything right high comp is fine.

Turbo will spool quicker, etc.

 

you should try looking up aaron cakes thread. He did a 6port N/a Turbo.

 

yep turbo will spool up way faster,i done it and it worked fine until i spiked 45 psi and kaboom.

 

JAPAN2LA a forum member sells a custom LIM that bolts to a 6PI and uses the TII UIM and TB.
If you are wanting to bolt on a stock turbo or something similar and not looking for lots of boost you should be fine.

 

I have personally ran a 4 Port with 9.4 rotors and a T04E at 14psi. It had way more bottom end than my current setup. Just make sure you don't use the 3 piece apex seals. I found out the hard way that even new 3 pieces will not take 14 psi long.

 

I'm running s5 n/a-turbo, with 10psi giver take I spike to 15psi every once and a while. All I have is a safc, N370 ecu, and fuel pump with 680cc secondarys and I'm just fine.

 

do you have any links to any of japan2la's posts about the custom lim i looked through his stuff and the only thing i found was a cosmo re intake set up

 

Yeah it was my plan for my old fc before she died.

Would work fine, just gotta bee safe

 

Right here:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-rx-7-1986-1992-parts-194/f-s-s5-jspec-tii-lim-13b-6-port-block-811607/

 

Japan2LA's manifold is a good choice if you can't do any fabrication and want to make a "6 port TII".

But you have a nice NA engine with a well engineered 6 port system, use it if you can. This involves fabrication, so if you can't do that, use TII parts with a Japan2LA manifold.

Make a custom exhaust manifold to keep the turbo out of the way of the actuators, and size the turbo appropriately (ie. big T3 like the GT3076). Keep the aux port actuators functional and control them via boost and RPM using a standalone. The system will be awesome. You'll have full boost from 1500 RPM up with a torque curve that would make you tingle.

 

I might have to look into that lim once i i figure out how much everything else im going to need will run me and come to a decision on what turbo i want to run most likely im going to just go with a turbo 2 one. Im just not sure tho cause i hear they only put out 6psi im new to some turbo stuff and im wondering can i make it put out 8psi and maybe more once i have a tuning system maybe apexi afc?

 

Stock, the TII runs 5.5 PSI of boost. Of course, boost can be increased with appropriate fuel mods. Most TIIs will be fine at 8 PSI without any major fuel mods, only an FCD. Some won't, so you will need some way of monitoring the engine (ie. wideband). If all you need is a little more fuel, and an upgraded pump and an S-AFC will do the job. Once you start upgrading injectors, you would want to move to something like the RTek. When the turbo is upgraded, it is standalone time.

HT-18 on the TII is good to about 12 PSI at rotary airflows before it starts dropping efficiency quickly.

 

no turbo for me for a while as of today motor took a sh*t drove just fine got on it a bit no more then usual and minutes after started running rough making a knocking noise (coming from the rear rotor/housing) then at the first stop light i was at after that it died and flooded got it started again and driving 5 blocks to home i have alot less power and everything is shaking alot.... did some research and im thinking that it could be my main bearing or blown rotor so anyone have a second opinion on if i am anywhere in the neighborhood of what it might be?

 

Bearings almost never go bad and theres no such thing as a "blown rotor". Do a compression test before jumping to conclusions.

 

i was not meaning blown rotor... i was just meaning that it **** out on me and i dont have a compression tester on hand so i pulled the bottom plugs and cranked it and it sounds just as it did along time ago when it was running perfect