hi. new here
#1
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hi. new here
hi. im new here. ive been thinking about getting a 7 within the next year or so (not really in a rush). im just wondering what gen/model i should get. i love the rotary but i have never worked or used one before. ive read and heard that the fc is the best to start out with but i dont know. any advice?
thanks
thanks
#5
Yo dawg, Im happy for you
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Welcome
Rotary is a different beast yes, but like anything else you can learn to work on it, just do your homework. Good call on not rushing into things, try to get the best deal you can for the best car. A lot of these cars have been beat up on, but there are still some gems out there.
All the information you need is on this forum.
Rotary is a different beast yes, but like anything else you can learn to work on it, just do your homework. Good call on not rushing into things, try to get the best deal you can for the best car. A lot of these cars have been beat up on, but there are still some gems out there.
All the information you need is on this forum.
#7
Apex Seal Treachery!!!!!!
iTrader: (13)
Welcome to the forums. I've driven and totaled my father's 1st gen when I was younger (not pretty, rolled it doing 60 and almost killed a friend). Between my father and I we've owned 3 S5 convertibles. I just put a JDM turbo into my convertible and I love it. The 1st gen was lighter and more sporty feeling. But now that I've driven my first turbo I don't think I could go back to N/A. Let's just hope I can afford to keep a turbo running :P
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#8
Clean.
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Get a buyer's guide from the forum FAQ. Now you have plenty of time to check out cars as you see them and pick a good one. Check www.kbb.com for typical prices. In addition to that, set aside maybe a grand to change out all the fluids, etc. and fix it up. More if it's condition is poor; in fact a cheaper car usually costs more after fixing. Get a Haynes manual for basic maintenance at least, but for repairs you may want to use the search tool on these forums. Besides doing every maintenance item you'll want to fix any problems, replace the thermostat with OEM, replace the fuel pulsation dampener if it's leaking or more than 100,000 miles old and check the DTSS (rear toe) bushings.
Now is a good time to read up on the car, for common fixes and upgrades and to budget. And any other questions you may have (try forum searches, for example). For upgrades figure about a grand for basic power on an NA, a grand for the suspension on either car, and quite a bit more for power on a turbo depending on your goals. If you want to pay for installation instead of DIY, I'd add about 50%. A standalone ECU (tuning) is another grand, and coilovers (suspension) maybe another grand. I think body work is about $500 to replace any given panel, $50 for a small dent or touch up, $20+ a ding, $1500+ for a repaint or $300-$400 for a cheap ugly repaint. Severe rust damage is nearly irreparable; it costs a small fortune. After you get a rough idea of what you want, start looking at exactly what you want to get and figure out exact pricing.
Oh yeah, as for which model to get your basic choices are s4 NA (146HP), s4 turbo (180HP), s5 NA convertible (160HP), s5 NA (160HP), s5 turbo (200HP). There are also some minor trim packages, etc., but that's it in a nutshell. s4 = 1986-1988, s5 = 1989-1992. The s4 is lighter with more aluminum and most parts have better quality construction (more durable). But the s5 has more horsepower, minor body styling updates and a few minor updates dealing with issues with the s4. The convertible is slower due to the extra weight from bracing the chassis and tall gearing. The tall gearing saves the gas mileage lost by the weight and soft top.
Now is a good time to read up on the car, for common fixes and upgrades and to budget. And any other questions you may have (try forum searches, for example). For upgrades figure about a grand for basic power on an NA, a grand for the suspension on either car, and quite a bit more for power on a turbo depending on your goals. If you want to pay for installation instead of DIY, I'd add about 50%. A standalone ECU (tuning) is another grand, and coilovers (suspension) maybe another grand. I think body work is about $500 to replace any given panel, $50 for a small dent or touch up, $20+ a ding, $1500+ for a repaint or $300-$400 for a cheap ugly repaint. Severe rust damage is nearly irreparable; it costs a small fortune. After you get a rough idea of what you want, start looking at exactly what you want to get and figure out exact pricing.
Oh yeah, as for which model to get your basic choices are s4 NA (146HP), s4 turbo (180HP), s5 NA convertible (160HP), s5 NA (160HP), s5 turbo (200HP). There are also some minor trim packages, etc., but that's it in a nutshell. s4 = 1986-1988, s5 = 1989-1992. The s4 is lighter with more aluminum and most parts have better quality construction (more durable). But the s5 has more horsepower, minor body styling updates and a few minor updates dealing with issues with the s4. The convertible is slower due to the extra weight from bracing the chassis and tall gearing. The tall gearing saves the gas mileage lost by the weight and soft top.
Last edited by ericgrau; 01-31-08 at 09:08 AM.
#10
Drifter Fo' Life
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Wud up man, and welcome to the site.
Yea, definitely stick with the FCs the GTU models are probably the easiest to find, if you don't have a preference. Just make sure you don't get ripped off LOL
Yea, definitely stick with the FCs the GTU models are probably the easiest to find, if you don't have a preference. Just make sure you don't get ripped off LOL
#11
Boost ahoy!
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Heh, I jumped into things when I bought my first 7, but it was only $900, and a piece, so that's OK. :p
Good to see you're interested. Hope you find what you're looking for!
Good to see you're interested. Hope you find what you're looking for!
#13
(blank)
iTrader: (1)
If 86-88, get a Sport, GXL, or GTU (they have the 4-piston brakes and 5-lugs).
Spend a little more, if needed, to get a really clean car. Read the buyer's guide, the FAQ and most of the archives.
If you really have to go TII, get one that was from factory (i.e. not a swap), unless it was well done.
Spend a little more, if needed, to get a really clean car. Read the buyer's guide, the FAQ and most of the archives.
If you really have to go TII, get one that was from factory (i.e. not a swap), unless it was well done.
#15
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thanks dudes that was really helpful. yea im not really rushing into things, just want something thats fun and i could use as a daily. ill probably get a s4 or s5 na and get used to the rotary on that for a while. if i really like it, ill buy a t2 (and upgrade it) for a weekend/track car. thanks a lot everyone
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