hey shud i take off my air pump
hey shud i take off my air pump
10-19-06, 03:26 PM
#2
The air pump causes almost no hp loss, so it won't really make any difference. I also wou;dnt do it if you still have a stock cat becuase it will get fried quickly and clog, meaning less hp.
There isn't really a way to add decent hp for no money. If you open up the exhaust, you get more boost, which means you need to add fuel or you'll blow the motor.
I guess you can go ahead an remove all the emissions and do the tb mod, but it won't add too much hp. Its better than tnothing though.
There isn't really a way to add decent hp for no money. If you open up the exhaust, you get more boost, which means you need to add fuel or you'll blow the motor.
I guess you can go ahead an remove all the emissions and do the tb mod, but it won't add too much hp. Its better than tnothing though.
10-19-06, 03:27 PM
#3
Engine, Not Motor
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You can't "take off" anything to make more power.
Leave the air pump there since you need it for your cats.
If you don't have to pass emissions, you can remove the cats and thus remove the air pump. Cat removal will have the largest impact on power since it really uncorks the exhaust. That's about the only thing you can remove to make power.
Leave the air pump there since you need it for your cats.
If you don't have to pass emissions, you can remove the cats and thus remove the air pump. Cat removal will have the largest impact on power since it really uncorks the exhaust. That's about the only thing you can remove to make power.
10-19-06, 03:39 PM
#4
+1 ^
Other ways to make power with little or no money:
1. Regular maintenance. You'll save money in the long run and you'll keep your car performing in top shape. The FAQ will tell you where to get the FSM for free, or you could get a Haynes manual.
2. Royal Purple. Will improve HP & mpg by 2%, according to reviewers, i.e. 4HP. In a 15mpg turbo, you'd save 4 gallons of gas every 3,000 miles, which would help offset the extra cost. Their FAQ claims 100% compatibility with rotaries.
3. Cold air intake. Duct air from outside, not under your hood. You can use sheet metal or any material you like. Good for << 15HP, depending on how good your intercooler is (probably a lot less than 15).
If you want to spend some cash, a performance cat and muffler will yield the most gains for the least money. You'd want to get the cat brand new, though, or it might not last very long. You're looking at about $800 for both brand new, but you could get used mufflers and a barely used cat to save some money.
Other ways to make power with little or no money:
1. Regular maintenance. You'll save money in the long run and you'll keep your car performing in top shape. The FAQ will tell you where to get the FSM for free, or you could get a Haynes manual.
2. Royal Purple. Will improve HP & mpg by 2%, according to reviewers, i.e. 4HP. In a 15mpg turbo, you'd save 4 gallons of gas every 3,000 miles, which would help offset the extra cost. Their FAQ claims 100% compatibility with rotaries.
3. Cold air intake. Duct air from outside, not under your hood. You can use sheet metal or any material you like. Good for << 15HP, depending on how good your intercooler is (probably a lot less than 15).
If you want to spend some cash, a performance cat and muffler will yield the most gains for the least money. You'd want to get the cat brand new, though, or it might not last very long. You're looking at about $800 for both brand new, but you could get used mufflers and a barely used cat to save some money.
10-19-06, 04:12 PM
#5
Boost in..Apex seals out.
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You want more power? Follow these "cheap" steps, and enjoy your...+80-90 RWHP (assuming your T2 dynos around 160-170rwhp stock).
Note to be taken VERY seriously: DO NOT mod a turbo car like an NA car. On an NA, you can do a whole bunch of mods one at a time, and then tune it all later. You most likely won't have any problems. With EVERY mod you do to a T2, you need to be able to tune. I'm not recommending this, but the SAFC2 is the most widely used tuning tool for these RX7's. If you have the knowledge, and a few extra dollars, invest in a Megasquirt 'n Spark standalone ECU.
Ok, first thing for you to do is MAINTENENCE. Oil change, coolant flush, spark plugs, plug wires, replace all vacuum lines with silicone, tranny fluid to synthetic (Redline, Royal Purple, etc), and same for rear differential. Theres more you can do, but these are the basic things that need to be done before trying to put any power through this car reliably. You could be making 500whp but if your tranny is grinding you won't be doing any good!
Next up, pick up an SAFC2 and FCD (Fuel cut defensor). You can pick these up cheap on the forum's for sale section, or on a website like www.rx7store.net, www.rx7.com, etc. With these in hand, your tuning capabilities are limited to fuel only, not timing. This is why a standalone is so incredibly awesome. No matter WHAT anyone says on this forum, I highly recommend you do NOT get an RTek ECU..a Megasquirt is cheaper, infinitely more functional, and not a PITA to use..not to mention, the RTek is limited to around the same capabilities of fuel tuning at the SAFC2, and lots more expensive.
With this all done, go ahead and pull your turbo off. Yep! Unbolt that thing and rip it right out. Send it off, or find the FAQ on How to Port Your Wastegate. Before doing any mods, you'll need to be able to control boost, and porting your wastegate is the only way to stop from literally imploding your engine. One too many people don't do this before modding..and a lot of people have blown up, too. Now is a good time to have your turbo rebuilt if you have any shaftplay, not to mention, clean up your engine bay / replace all your exhaust gaskets.
After its ported and reinstalled (with NEW gasket - DO NOT cheap out on gaskets! You'll love yourself later!), go ahead and buy a full exhaust. www.racingbeat.com sells a full Turbo-back exhaust for $789 + shipping, and its quality is, for the most part, unchallenged. Thick metal, long lasting, and really great sounding. Classy around town, a beast when you want it to be. If you like the super-loud sound full time, go with the Corksport Turbo-back, at www.corksport.com, they sell theirs for $589. You get what you pay for!
Now, your right on the edge of performance. What you need now is fuel. NO intake before this! Grab a set of GReddy 720cc injectors to throw in as your secondaries, you can get them at www.rx7store.net. They will supply you more than enough fuel on the stock turbo. You will need to tune these in on your SAFC2, as you will run insanely rich if you just throw them in.
Now, you've got exhaust, fuel, a ported turbo, etc. Now's time for an intake. Go to any local hardware store, and pick up a 3" 45* bend (about 10" long) made of either ABS plastic or some kind of metal. DO NOT GET PVC! It will be fine for a while, but when it heats up and deteriorates, it releases incredibly poisonous gases! Get 2 couplers, a 3"-3", and a 3"-2", made of either silicone (expensive, can be ordered via www.ebaymotors.com, or you can get some rubber plumber's couplers from a hardware store. The 3"-2" goes between the start of the pipe and your turbo, as the inlet to the turbo is 2". The 3"-3" goes between your intake pipe and your AFM, which will then house your new cone filter (preferably K&N, which is the best flowing+filtering on the market, aside from Apex'i, a waste IMO). You can pick up a K&N at any local auto parts store, and they have 1,000,000 mile warranties.
Grab a boost controller. Manual, electronic, whatever you can afford, at www.ebaymotors.com. Do not turn it up until you are on the dyno, and with the stock top mount intercooler, don't go over 12-13psi.
Alright! Now, tune! Either street tune (ONLY if you KNOW what you are doing, and are comfortable with it!) or go to a dyno and have it professionally tuned by someone who is familiar with ROTARIES. Rotaries are incredibly different to tune than a piston. Make sure this dyno has a wideband you can use, as you won't have one, unless you invest in an LC-1 (innovatemotorsports.com).
Now, at 12-13psi, fully tuned with all the mods listed above, you should have a reliable, streetable, 240-250rwhp. Happy days!
Note to be taken VERY seriously: DO NOT mod a turbo car like an NA car. On an NA, you can do a whole bunch of mods one at a time, and then tune it all later. You most likely won't have any problems. With EVERY mod you do to a T2, you need to be able to tune. I'm not recommending this, but the SAFC2 is the most widely used tuning tool for these RX7's. If you have the knowledge, and a few extra dollars, invest in a Megasquirt 'n Spark standalone ECU.
Ok, first thing for you to do is MAINTENENCE. Oil change, coolant flush, spark plugs, plug wires, replace all vacuum lines with silicone, tranny fluid to synthetic (Redline, Royal Purple, etc), and same for rear differential. Theres more you can do, but these are the basic things that need to be done before trying to put any power through this car reliably. You could be making 500whp but if your tranny is grinding you won't be doing any good!
Next up, pick up an SAFC2 and FCD (Fuel cut defensor). You can pick these up cheap on the forum's for sale section, or on a website like www.rx7store.net, www.rx7.com, etc. With these in hand, your tuning capabilities are limited to fuel only, not timing. This is why a standalone is so incredibly awesome. No matter WHAT anyone says on this forum, I highly recommend you do NOT get an RTek ECU..a Megasquirt is cheaper, infinitely more functional, and not a PITA to use..not to mention, the RTek is limited to around the same capabilities of fuel tuning at the SAFC2, and lots more expensive.
With this all done, go ahead and pull your turbo off. Yep! Unbolt that thing and rip it right out. Send it off, or find the FAQ on How to Port Your Wastegate. Before doing any mods, you'll need to be able to control boost, and porting your wastegate is the only way to stop from literally imploding your engine. One too many people don't do this before modding..and a lot of people have blown up, too. Now is a good time to have your turbo rebuilt if you have any shaftplay, not to mention, clean up your engine bay / replace all your exhaust gaskets.
After its ported and reinstalled (with NEW gasket - DO NOT cheap out on gaskets! You'll love yourself later!), go ahead and buy a full exhaust. www.racingbeat.com sells a full Turbo-back exhaust for $789 + shipping, and its quality is, for the most part, unchallenged. Thick metal, long lasting, and really great sounding. Classy around town, a beast when you want it to be. If you like the super-loud sound full time, go with the Corksport Turbo-back, at www.corksport.com, they sell theirs for $589. You get what you pay for!
Now, your right on the edge of performance. What you need now is fuel. NO intake before this! Grab a set of GReddy 720cc injectors to throw in as your secondaries, you can get them at www.rx7store.net. They will supply you more than enough fuel on the stock turbo. You will need to tune these in on your SAFC2, as you will run insanely rich if you just throw them in.
Now, you've got exhaust, fuel, a ported turbo, etc. Now's time for an intake. Go to any local hardware store, and pick up a 3" 45* bend (about 10" long) made of either ABS plastic or some kind of metal. DO NOT GET PVC! It will be fine for a while, but when it heats up and deteriorates, it releases incredibly poisonous gases! Get 2 couplers, a 3"-3", and a 3"-2", made of either silicone (expensive, can be ordered via www.ebaymotors.com, or you can get some rubber plumber's couplers from a hardware store. The 3"-2" goes between the start of the pipe and your turbo, as the inlet to the turbo is 2". The 3"-3" goes between your intake pipe and your AFM, which will then house your new cone filter (preferably K&N, which is the best flowing+filtering on the market, aside from Apex'i, a waste IMO). You can pick up a K&N at any local auto parts store, and they have 1,000,000 mile warranties.
Grab a boost controller. Manual, electronic, whatever you can afford, at www.ebaymotors.com. Do not turn it up until you are on the dyno, and with the stock top mount intercooler, don't go over 12-13psi.
Alright! Now, tune! Either street tune (ONLY if you KNOW what you are doing, and are comfortable with it!) or go to a dyno and have it professionally tuned by someone who is familiar with ROTARIES. Rotaries are incredibly different to tune than a piston. Make sure this dyno has a wideband you can use, as you won't have one, unless you invest in an LC-1 (innovatemotorsports.com).
Now, at 12-13psi, fully tuned with all the mods listed above, you should have a reliable, streetable, 240-250rwhp. Happy days!
10-19-06, 10:26 PM
#7
^ adrock3217 gave some very good and widely accepted advice. I'd go with it. Still, I'd get multiple opinions before going forward. For example adrock forgot to mention the fuel filter under maintenance, which is critical. Especially for a turbo with increased power. Of course the owner's manual, FSM or Haynes manual will include all the necessary maintenance items.
adrock, is it worth it to get an SAFC for an N/A? With a full exhaust and cold air intake? When I'd want to tune it very conservatively anyway? Would you still recommend SAFC2?
adrock, is it worth it to get an SAFC for an N/A? With a full exhaust and cold air intake? When I'd want to tune it very conservatively anyway? Would you still recommend SAFC2?
Last edited by ericgrau; 10-19-06 at 10:46 PM.
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