i just installed my rteik 1.7 and i have a super AFC-1 i was wondering if there are any settings that i have to change becuase im getting a hesitation right before boost. its light to medium load on the engine and in vacuum. can the settings on the safc be causing this?

sorry for the 2x post i just thought that it might ACUALLY get seen here

 

how do you have your S-AFC lo hi setup? through RPM or boost?

and you have 720cc secondaries, right?

 

Put you SAFC to INITIALIZE and then try the car out. Just write down your present settings and then put them back in the SAFC after doing your test.

Another good hint: Buy a good Wideband for your car to go with the SAFC. I don''t see how you'll get the max use out of the SAFC unless you do that or go to a Tuner Shop.

 

You wont.. You need a wideband to tune an SAFC.

 

Se there?? Even the Avionics technician agrees. It's been decided then. Save for and buy the wideband, then fix the problem.

 

also check your TPS. Your TPS might have a blow open which could lead to hesitation at that throttle point.

It shouldn't be the Rtek. It's just an ECU upgrade.
Check your grounds. Add one to your boost sensor(almost destroyed the hesitation in my car) then one to the ECU/firewall/tranny/battery.

 

I just think it is funny that people are always saying that you need a wideband or a reputable shop to tune a standalone and people don't want to do this because it can get too expensive for this time and added parts. It's also funny how people buy SAFC's for the same basic reason because it is supposedly easier to make work good. Then we still have the comment about how a wideband or a good tuner should still be used to tune it anyways. I somehow find that ironic!

 

an SAFC2 and a wideband costs less than most standalones.

but really it is a good idea to save for a wideband to tune properly, i don't disagree that you can tune an engine fairly well by feel and sound but you can't tell what the mixtures are at without a measuring device, without one it is a roll of the dice whether you are running at the brink of disaster or not without even knowing it.

 

Yeah a wideband kicks ***.

I remember dynoing and they used the tailpipe extension POS AFR reader.

It said I hit AFR's around 18! during 8PSI! Riiiiiiiighht.........
Also sid I hit around low 10's around the 3500 rpm range.

 

I can't see how anyone with a standalone or a SAFC could go through life without having a wideband in the car, permanently installed.

You'd think a Standalone would have a wideband built in the hardware. I guess not.

I'd suspect your engine is running rich. Tooooo rich. It's bogging down. Fortunatly you can't prove me right or wrong. humor

 

I dont have a wideband permanantely installed in my car! Any good standalone will get tuned, then thats all you have to do.

 

Ill help the way you feel by saying im going through this right now with you ,, I have the r-tek 1.7 with a safc and a bunch of other goodies. and im running so rich that i fouled out a brand new set of plugs. in about 100 miles. if less. im waiting for a time when i can meet up with a local tuner with a wide band for the time being. but yeah im running very very rich

 

this is one thing i dont have Ben how hard is it to install and what all do i need i seen a kit on a good web site of mine and they have one or two channel
i beleive i need one bryan from bnr suggested one

 

yeah i will have an lm1 in my car.....but for some reason i put my RB FCD back in and it fixed the hesitation problem....is it ok to leave it in?

 

man I'm seriously thinking of selling my safc1 and rtek chipped ecu and getting a stock ecu with the greddy emanage and just having that thing auto tune for 12's, done!

 

Like I said. The ECU is still stock so you will have ALL the stock problems like injector hesitation. It's a stock ECU with a fuel map change.

You do the normal fixes like grounding the **** out of everything. When I stripped back some of my boost sensor ground wire I saw that it was green/brown with nasty oxidation and ****. These cars have 15+ year old wire harnesses which have been subjected to water/cold/heat/and vibration.

 

oh yeah in no way is the rtek the problem, I just really want emanage now

 

i still need to do some research on what kit is the most accurate for the price and easy to work with(hand controller or digital/analog readout that store data). i was looking at the LM1 but haven't decided yet.

they are easy to install, all you need to do is drill a hole about 3/4 the way down the exhaust and weld in a bung and install the sensor and wire up the electronics.

maybe me, you and nick could all split the price of a single unit that way all we would need is to buy an induvidual sensor for each car. that way we could buy a better unit with better options since they are not exactly cheap.