hesitating under boost still
04-08-03, 02:42 PM
#26
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First, eliminate the boost sensor as a possible problem...
1) Scan ECU for error codes.
2) Spec ignition timing to be in spec.
3) BE VERY CAREFUL DOING THIS:  unplug the electrical connector from the boost sensor and go driving around.  It would help to have the highest octane gasoline in the tank when you do this.  Keep a sharp ear for any hints of detonation - LIFT OFF as soon as you hit any type of hesitation.
If the car runs fine after electrically disconnecting the boost sensor, the boost sensor is to blame - nothing you can do to replace.
If the car still hesitates, times to look else where.  Many have offered great advice on what else can be wrong...
-Ted
1) Scan ECU for error codes.
2) Spec ignition timing to be in spec.
3) BE VERY CAREFUL DOING THIS:  unplug the electrical connector from the boost sensor and go driving around.  It would help to have the highest octane gasoline in the tank when you do this.  Keep a sharp ear for any hints of detonation - LIFT OFF as soon as you hit any type of hesitation.
If the car runs fine after electrically disconnecting the boost sensor, the boost sensor is to blame - nothing you can do to replace.
If the car still hesitates, times to look else where.  Many have offered great advice on what else can be wrong...
-Ted
04-08-03, 02:54 PM
#27
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Ok, I took the boost sensor electrical connector off and my car didn't hesitate! Well it still did slightly, but that could be since I haven't had my car tuned at all. No real hesitation, just small instances where its not as powerful as it should be. Very small. So this means I need a new boost sensor, right? This still did not fix my low boost problem, but at least I might have fixed one problem. I guess I do have a vac leak, so that should be why I am boosting so low. Thanks for the help. I am going to go get the stuff to make the thing to test for codes. Also, going to go out and get the restrictor. Thanks everyone.
04-08-03, 04:08 PM
#28
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Is the hesitation consistent at a specific RPM?  Or is it more dependent on boost levels (i.e. only in higher gears)?
If it's specific RPM's (especially high RPM's over 5kRPM), then it could be ignition related or a bad TPS (check TPS max resistance).
If it's dependent on boost, it might be dirty secondary fuel injectors (try and run some good fuel injector cleaner) or fuel system related (i.e. fuel filter needs to be replaced or fuel pump is dying).
-Ted
If it's specific RPM's (especially high RPM's over 5kRPM), then it could be ignition related or a bad TPS (check TPS max resistance).
If it's dependent on boost, it might be dirty secondary fuel injectors (try and run some good fuel injector cleaner) or fuel system related (i.e. fuel filter needs to be replaced or fuel pump is dying).
-Ted
04-08-03, 04:23 PM
#29
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Well my boost is always basically the same if I am pushing the car(0.3-0.5 on my GReddy gauge). With the boost sensor unplugged, it doesn't really hesitate. More like it could be tuned better. Not a real stop, or anything. I'll run it high in the RPMs slowly to see if it still does it without boost.
10-15-03, 12:15 PM
#30
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Originally posted by dcfc3s
I originally got the idea from an old Option video. They took a heavy plastic bag, folded it over a few times, and clamped it on the turbo inlet. Then, they got a vacuum line and hooked up an air nozzle to it - the kind you use to "squirt" air to dust something off.
I've also seen people make them from a PVC cap of some kind, and put a nipple in the middle of the cap to attach the air source to. There's really not much finesse to it - just pressurize the system, and look/listen/feel for air leaks.
It doesn't really matter which hose you hook up to to pressurize the system. If you pick a source after the throttle plates, you may want to make sure the throttle is cracked open so the pressure goes all through the intake tract.
Dale
I originally got the idea from an old Option video. They took a heavy plastic bag, folded it over a few times, and clamped it on the turbo inlet. Then, they got a vacuum line and hooked up an air nozzle to it - the kind you use to "squirt" air to dust something off.
I've also seen people make them from a PVC cap of some kind, and put a nipple in the middle of the cap to attach the air source to. There's really not much finesse to it - just pressurize the system, and look/listen/feel for air leaks.
It doesn't really matter which hose you hook up to to pressurize the system. If you pick a source after the throttle plates, you may want to make sure the throttle is cracked open so the pressure goes all through the intake tract.
Dale
-Robert
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