Here's an easy way to remove the diffuser part of an N/A sleeve
08-27-02, 12:38 AM
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 206
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here's an easy way to remove the diffuser part of an N/A sleeve
Sorry if someone already had this idea; I really don't have time to search through 100's of posts to see if it is.
From what I've read, there seems to be much confusion reguarding how to "grind" these out. Well, GRIND is too literal, and if followed to the point, it'll cost you a bunch of bits/stones/sandpaper dowels. I found a WAAAY simpler way to do this if you're cheap like me, and don't want to purchase T-II sleeves. I mean, why pay for what can be had with a little work?
1 - Remove the sleeve from the housing (2 pins, one on each side of the housing; use a screw extractor and slide-hammer)
2 - lay sleeve face-down on hard surface (the big hole goes down)
3 - take a SMALL (1/2") cold-chisel and place it where the diffuser comes from the sleeve (the "root")
4 - Angle the chisel ~30 degreese (towards the roots, of course), and pound away! (tap-WHAM-tap-WHAM)
5 - use a cut-off tool and chop the "lip" of the sleeve off. (the chunk of metal that's angled upwards)
6 - take a pair of vice-grips and straighten the end of the runner out (the angle portion of what was just cut off)
There'll be so little metal left, it's a chinch to grind out with even a dremel and carbide bits!
Okay, since the people who are reading this will porbably have ported/lots of porting experience, I also have a question:
On a 13b 6-port:
On the end housings, the port is divided in 2 by a "bridge" on the rotor side of the housing. What would be the gains (if any) to grinding this flush with the runner, and tapering the port-runner divider at a ~40 degree angle (perpendicular to the port)? Essestially, combine the 5th and 6th ports into one large one (still keeping the ports separated UP TO the port).
Anyways, hope this helps. Man, I could just see some people sitting there with a die-grinder, slowly eating away at the hardened stainless diffuser.
WHaCKo
From what I've read, there seems to be much confusion reguarding how to "grind" these out. Well, GRIND is too literal, and if followed to the point, it'll cost you a bunch of bits/stones/sandpaper dowels. I found a WAAAY simpler way to do this if you're cheap like me, and don't want to purchase T-II sleeves. I mean, why pay for what can be had with a little work?
1 - Remove the sleeve from the housing (2 pins, one on each side of the housing; use a screw extractor and slide-hammer)
2 - lay sleeve face-down on hard surface (the big hole goes down)
3 - take a SMALL (1/2") cold-chisel and place it where the diffuser comes from the sleeve (the "root")
4 - Angle the chisel ~30 degreese (towards the roots, of course), and pound away! (tap-WHAM-tap-WHAM)
5 - use a cut-off tool and chop the "lip" of the sleeve off. (the chunk of metal that's angled upwards)
6 - take a pair of vice-grips and straighten the end of the runner out (the angle portion of what was just cut off)
There'll be so little metal left, it's a chinch to grind out with even a dremel and carbide bits!
Okay, since the people who are reading this will porbably have ported/lots of porting experience, I also have a question:
On a 13b 6-port:
On the end housings, the port is divided in 2 by a "bridge" on the rotor side of the housing. What would be the gains (if any) to grinding this flush with the runner, and tapering the port-runner divider at a ~40 degree angle (perpendicular to the port)? Essestially, combine the 5th and 6th ports into one large one (still keeping the ports separated UP TO the port).
Anyways, hope this helps. Man, I could just see some people sitting there with a die-grinder, slowly eating away at the hardened stainless diffuser.
WHaCKo
08-27-02, 11:55 AM
#2
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Ft. Worth, Texas, USA, Earth, Solar System...
Posts: 1,273
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Here's an easy way to remove the diffuser part of an N/A sleeve
Ok, here's an easier way...
Step 1 is the same in my version...
Find a pair of THRASHED TII housings- will cost you almost nothing since they are not useable!!!! Repeat step 1 on these...
Insert TII sleeeves into NA housings and replace pins....
No step 4 needed... drink a beer or somthing while the person using the OTHER method is working up a good sweat.
Step 5... Drink another beer and laugh at the person still working on theirs...
More beer and chuckles... watch some football or hockey... come back out to check progress on the "other" method...
If I understand correctly, this is a BAD idea. The combined port volume is just TOO large, so airflow slows down too much and becomes stagnant. It wouldn't idle, and have no power up to probably 5-6k RPM. Just about like driving a big bridge port or PP.
Yeah... me too. Trust me... it's MUCH easier just to swap the TII sleeve in. 
Brad
Originally posted by black_sunshine
Sorry if someone already had this idea; I really don't have time to search through 100's of posts to see if it is.
From what I've read, there seems to be much confusion reguarding how to "grind" these out. Well, GRIND is too literal, and if followed to the point, it'll cost you a bunch of bits/stones/sandpaper dowels. I found a WAAAY simpler way to do this if you're cheap like me, and don't want to purchase T-II sleeves. I mean, why pay for what can be had with a little work?
1 - Remove the sleeve from the housing (2 pins, one on each side of the housing; use a screw extractor and slide-hammer)
Sorry if someone already had this idea; I really don't have time to search through 100's of posts to see if it is.
From what I've read, there seems to be much confusion reguarding how to "grind" these out. Well, GRIND is too literal, and if followed to the point, it'll cost you a bunch of bits/stones/sandpaper dowels. I found a WAAAY simpler way to do this if you're cheap like me, and don't want to purchase T-II sleeves. I mean, why pay for what can be had with a little work?
1 - Remove the sleeve from the housing (2 pins, one on each side of the housing; use a screw extractor and slide-hammer)
2 - lay sleeve face-down on hard surface (the big hole goes down)
3 - take a SMALL (1/2") cold-chisel and place it where the diffuser comes from the sleeve (the "root")
4 - Angle the chisel ~30 degreese (towards the roots, of course), and pound away! (tap-WHAM-tap-WHAM)
5 - use a cut-off tool and chop the "lip" of the sleeve off. (the chunk of metal that's angled upwards)
6 - take a pair of vice-grips and straighten the end of the runner out (the angle portion of what was just cut off)
There'll be so little metal left, it's a chinch to grind out with even a dremel and carbide bits!
Okay, since the people who are reading this will porbably have ported/lots of porting experience, I also have a question:
On a 13b 6-port:
On the end housings, the port is divided in 2 by a "bridge" on the rotor side of the housing. What would be the gains (if any) to grinding this flush with the runner, and tapering the port-runner divider at a ~40 degree angle (perpendicular to the port)? Essestially, combine the 5th and 6th ports into one large one (still keeping the ports separated UP TO the port).
Okay, since the people who are reading this will porbably have ported/lots of porting experience, I also have a question:
On a 13b 6-port:
On the end housings, the port is divided in 2 by a "bridge" on the rotor side of the housing. What would be the gains (if any) to grinding this flush with the runner, and tapering the port-runner divider at a ~40 degree angle (perpendicular to the port)? Essestially, combine the 5th and 6th ports into one large one (still keeping the ports separated UP TO the port).
Anyways, hope this helps. Man, I could just see some people sitting there with a die-grinder, slowly eating away at the hardened stainless diffuser.
WHaCKo
WHaCKo
Brad
08-27-02, 11:58 AM
#4
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Ft. Worth, Texas, USA, Earth, Solar System...
Posts: 1,273
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by banzaitoyota
Or just use tii housings! easier yet
Or just use tii housings! easier yet
Brad
08-27-02, 12:27 PM
#6
Undercover
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,983
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ya they do quiet, but they are kinda restrictive and get in the way when porting.
RX7 RAGTOP: come on man, not every one has junk t2 housings laying around and this post was designed to help those people. Also with reguards to combining the ports thats not that big of a deal. My friend did it and his car still idles at the stock range and still makes ok pwr in the lower end.
CJG
RX7 RAGTOP: come on man, not every one has junk t2 housings laying around and this post was designed to help those people. Also with reguards to combining the ports thats not that big of a deal. My friend did it and his car still idles at the stock range and still makes ok pwr in the lower end.
CJG
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
cdn
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
14
09-10-15 06:23 AM
cdn
2nd Generation Non-Technical and pictures
0
08-11-15 08:59 PM
