help T2swap
05-20-09, 09:20 PM
#1
Invictus
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bama (36264)
Posts: 336
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
help T2swap
I'm having a problem guys...something is messed up on my swap. I turn the switch to the on position and everything lights up like it should but when I turn the car to the off position the instrument panel and idiot gauges remain lit. I turned the car over and the motor would idle and I went to turn it off and I took the key from the ignition and the motor was still running. I'm having a few other issues as well so to get it to cut off I just stabbed the gas pedal and it died...
05-21-09, 11:47 AM
#5
Invictus
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bama (36264)
Posts: 336
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
okay it's an 88vert with an S4 T2 motor. I removed emissions. and I'm also looking to find out where the switching actuator on the s4 turbo connects to?
Trending Topics
05-21-09, 12:08 PM
#8
Invictus
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bama (36264)
Posts: 336
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I used my N/A harness...all the pages I read said it would be easier to modify. But I haven't modified a thing. well I need to figure out which wire to cut for my Knock sensor.
do you know where I plug in my switching actuator thing? I'm not talking about the wastegate for the turbo but that other thing. If that makes any sense to you
do you know where I plug in my switching actuator thing? I'm not talking about the wastegate for the turbo but that other thing. If that makes any sense to you
05-21-09, 12:28 PM
#9
I used my N/A harness...all the pages I read said it would be easier to modify. But I haven't modified a thing. well I need to figure out which wire to cut for my Knock sensor.
do you know where I plug in my switching actuator thing? I'm not talking about the wastegate for the turbo but that other thing. If that makes any sense to you
do you know where I plug in my switching actuator thing? I'm not talking about the wastegate for the turbo but that other thing. If that makes any sense to you
The twin scroll actuator will no longer have anywhere to plug into, if you removed the emissions rack. It will require the solenoid and a vacuum source to work properly, so either set it back up, or lock the twin scroll flap in the open position.
As far as your starting / charging system issues, that shouldn't be swap related, since using the NA EM harness doesn't affect the engine harness.
05-21-09, 12:33 PM
#10
Invictus
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bama (36264)
Posts: 336
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
no I haven't extended the tps wires. I don't know which one that is. So no I have to take off the turbo and manifold to open the twin scroll flap? don't bash me please. I feel like such a noob and thanks for the help.
05-21-09, 01:12 PM
#11
Well, you should probably get your TPS plugged in. The engine can run without it, but it's probably not helping the situation. Get everything plugged and wired up before trying to run the engine. Check the white plug on the back of the alternator too. Warning lights are directly related to that plug.
The best way to disable the twin scroll flap is to remove the turbo & exhaust manifold, cut the arm off, and thread a bolt into the hole or have it welded up.
It also sounds like you jumped into this project without getting all the information you'll need. This thread has most of that infomation: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/s4-na-turbo-swap-details-813825/.
The best way to disable the twin scroll flap is to remove the turbo & exhaust manifold, cut the arm off, and thread a bolt into the hole or have it welded up.
It also sounds like you jumped into this project without getting all the information you'll need. This thread has most of that infomation: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/s4-na-turbo-swap-details-813825/.
05-21-09, 01:34 PM
#12
Invictus
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bama (36264)
Posts: 336
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the TPS is the little sensor thing that is screwed into the intake manifold where the intake piping for the intercooler goes right?
I looked through the page you posted and I am slightly confused with the pins
Pin 2K is for the split air solenoid on NAs, but for the twin-scroll solenoid on turbos. If keeping emissions, a J-spec ACV does not use a split air solenoid, which will free this wire up for the twin-scroll system. I suggest using the S5 turbo and manifold however, so you can forget this system altogether.
do I cut this wire? what do I do with it
Pin 3D is for the fuel pump resistor/relay on turbos, but is unused on manual NAs. However, on Automatic NAs, it runs to the inhibitor switch. But lets face it, no ones converting to turbo and using an AT transmission . So the wire at this pin can really be ignored in most cases. "
what do I do with this one?
are these the only pin outs to correct? I know to cut the knock sensor.
I looked through the page you posted and I am slightly confused with the pins
Pin 2K is for the split air solenoid on NAs, but for the twin-scroll solenoid on turbos. If keeping emissions, a J-spec ACV does not use a split air solenoid, which will free this wire up for the twin-scroll system. I suggest using the S5 turbo and manifold however, so you can forget this system altogether.
do I cut this wire? what do I do with it
Pin 3D is for the fuel pump resistor/relay on turbos, but is unused on manual NAs. However, on Automatic NAs, it runs to the inhibitor switch. But lets face it, no ones converting to turbo and using an AT transmission . So the wire at this pin can really be ignored in most cases. "
what do I do with this one?
are these the only pin outs to correct? I know to cut the knock sensor.
05-21-09, 02:31 PM
#13
For the pins...
Pin 3D you don't do anything.
Pin 2K you can ignore it if you remove the twin scroll actuator and door. But if you decide to keep the system, 2 wires with spade connectors will need to be plugged into what was the splir air plug (near the ACV). These wires will need to be run to the twin scroll solenoid. The positive and ground sides can be connected to either connector on the solenoid. I attached a little diagram.
05-21-09, 03:14 PM
#14
Invictus
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bama (36264)
Posts: 336
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
okay thank you. My TPS is hooked in. I didn't have to lengthen it at all. I Can not get this freakin Turbo and manifold off to mess with the twin scroll and I am soo pissed off right now. Thanksfor all your help
09-29-09, 07:09 PM
#15
Invictus
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bama (36264)
Posts: 336
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
bringing this back from the dead...call me the Grim Reaper!!!
I've been looking for pin 1R. I can't find the wire diagram to figure out what wire it is so I can cut it...Can some1 help me out?
I've been looking for pin 1R. I can't find the wire diagram to figure out what wire it is so I can cut it...Can some1 help me out?
09-29-09, 09:06 PM
#16
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
19 Posts
One R is in the large ECU plug to the right on the ECU. You *count* the wires from the TOP RIGHT wire...........in a up and down fashion ..........from right to left.
So the top right wire is 1A......the wire just below it is 1B.........and you continue that until you reach 1R.
Or look in the series four wiring diagrams at the ECU plugs.
The counting is done looking at the WIRE side of the plug.
Does your car now turn off with the key?
So the top right wire is 1A......the wire just below it is 1B.........and you continue that until you reach 1R.
Or look in the series four wiring diagrams at the ECU plugs.
The counting is done looking at the WIRE side of the plug.
Does your car now turn off with the key?
