Ok well it looks like Ive settled on the BNR stage 3. Seems to have what Im looking for. Im wanting to run mid to low 12's although its not really my main priority. I just wanna do it saftely as possible. As of now the car is equpiped with

550 prim.
720 sec
Walbro 255
Koyo
SAFC II
AVC-R
Intake
2.5" turbo back

My main concern with going with the BNR will be my fuel delivery. I want to upgrade the secondaries however I cant seem to get a good answer as to whether or not the SAFC can support this. I really want to stay away from a standalone for awhile as there really are no qualified rotary tuners in the area (at least not that anyone knows of). I just wanted to see if there where any other items missing from my puzzle that you guys could help with, also if you have any suggestions as far as fuel delivery I would appretiate it. Thanks again.

 

Your first obsticle will probably be intake temp.
You may want to consider a FMIC.
I'm thinking water injection (aquamist).

 

Here are my suggestions, and they may be refuted:

I would ditch the stock FPR and get an aftermarket 1 to 1, along with the parallel fuel mod, your pump is good for your time goal, bumping your secondaries up definately couldnt hurt (and move those 720s to the primary position) Mid-low 12s is going to requre about 350+ RWHP, so you use an injector calculator accordingly. But here is whats most important...

You are either going to spend the money on EMS now, or you will do it later... If you want reliable 12s, then EMS is the ONLY WAY TO GO... Some will debate this, thats fine, but I went the SAFC route for over a year, and finally just gave up and went EMS.. EMS is not rocket science like everyone seems to think it is, and you can get used E6Ks on Ebay all the time for about 600 bones, and you WILL NOT REGRET IT....

Rat

 

I have a turbo similar to the BNR3, you will need a FMIC, and water injector won't suffice on a stock IC. I tried that combo, intake temps still got hot. You really really need a standalone man, get a haltech in and use my map if yanna. If you get it put in, in time you can roll up to Salt Lake for a dyno tune at the end of October. If you don't go standalone you'll always be worried of blowing it. And if a standalone saves it even once its paid for itself.

 

You guys are a notch or two above my reality.
My rebuild is my daily driver for the next 4 years, so I can't push it too hard.
My current setup is 190HP on 87 octane with the boost switch on low, 220 on 93 with the switch on high, maybe 250 with water injection.

 

Thanks guys. I should of mentioned the FMIC in my post, as that was planned. My main concern with the standalone is who to tune it. I am nowhere near qualified to mess with it, and there isnt a rotary shop in town. I agree with rotarysc that without the standalone I will probably be constantly worried about blowing up with just the SAFC. I dunno, kind of a tough spot lol.

 

Who is a notch above reality? 250 is NOT going to get you a low 12 second timeslip...

 

Well if you install it and put my map on it, I would gladly help you tune it for safe AFR's. I'm no pro on ignition, so I left my ignition the way I got it from a renowned rotary tuner. I got a timeshare in Lost Wages, may be fun to come hang out.... and I know Case (Will) there if he's still at the base n all. If you need help installing it I got a good writeup on teamfc for an E6K, same basic idea with the K or the X really.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/400hp-questions-465353/

Were kind of hitting on the same thing over here....so yea.

 

You know case huh? hes one of my good friends although he sold his FC. I dont know the last time you talked to him. We all give him a hard time about his miata lol. But yeah. If you are down here you should let us know. The rotary community is growing fast. You should check out our page. www.vegasrotary.com. We are still working on it but it gets the job done.

And as far as using your map, that would be a great idea. What injectors are you running? I could sure use the help because my knowledge as far as electronic tuning goes is way to low for me start pushing buttons lol. In order to do it we would basically need the exact same setup right? Thanks again everyone.