400hp questions
09-21-05, 06:38 PM
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400hp questions
I'm basically a noob but im going to start workgin up my new 7 (90 GTU with TII swap).
basically my LONG term goal is 400hp at the wheels. My first two questions are:
1. Is the Racing Beat 60mm exhaust system capable of handling that goal or should I go 3 in or even 3.5
2. Is the Greddy FMIC kit capable of coolign for 400hp (I dont know what upgraded turbo I wanna go with yet) just want a rough idea because a front mount is high on my list but i dont wanan get one that cant handle the long term goal...
thnx for any imput..side note...emissions is no concern for the exhaust, but im not lookin for anythign deafining
basically my LONG term goal is 400hp at the wheels. My first two questions are:
1. Is the Racing Beat 60mm exhaust system capable of handling that goal or should I go 3 in or even 3.5
2. Is the Greddy FMIC kit capable of coolign for 400hp (I dont know what upgraded turbo I wanna go with yet) just want a rough idea because a front mount is high on my list but i dont wanan get one that cant handle the long term goal...
thnx for any imput..side note...emissions is no concern for the exhaust, but im not lookin for anythign deafining
09-21-05, 07:00 PM
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Some people run the stock intercooler with 400 rwhp, its not that great of an idea , but the greddy fmic can do it for ya. The racing beat exhaust is the best out there for an fc. Unless you want custom.
09-21-05, 08:05 PM
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Go with the RB 3" exhaust, and a 3 row Greddy should do it for you. But before we get into all of that, how much of the drivetrain is converted to TII? What are your other plans of "modification" to achieve 400hp? Have you taken into consideration:
Fuel needs? (Injectors, pump, AFPR)
Engine management? (Haltech, Motec, E-manage, etc.)
Much much more....
There is a lot to take into consideration when trying to achieve 400hp. If the Drivetrain is stock TII for now, do reliability stuff first. Change all the fluids, give it a tune up, consider getting an elec. fan, an aluminum rad., and re-wiring the fuel pump. Also, port the wastegate of the turbo, and get a FCD. Then consider getting a wideband oxygen sensor system, and a EGT gauge. Don't forget a boost gauge if there isn't already one present.
Basic Modifications:
consider purchasing a walbro fuel pump, 720 or 750cc secondaries, and some sort of piggyback system to control the injectors, (unless you want to go full standalone at this point since your looking for more power in the future.) Also, get a full exhaust and downpipe (the 3" RB one you were looking at), and then a boost controller. At this point you should have all the necessary things to tune the car and get the full potential out of the stock turbo. Also, you can add the FMIC you were talking about for future use as well.
400hp:
BNR stage 3, if your talking 400 flywheel hp. At this point I would highly reccomend getting a standalone system. I guess using a e-mange would be acceptable, an has been done, however, a stand alone would probably yield better results, the cost is just much more. You will also have to once again purchase injectors, and then tuning of the will be required.
There are other things that will have to be done to the car before this point as well, such as an upgraded clutch...
Im sure there are some things I may have forgotten, or that need touched upon, so hopefully some others will offer their guidance and opinions as well and correct any errors I have made.
~Chris
Fuel needs? (Injectors, pump, AFPR)
Engine management? (Haltech, Motec, E-manage, etc.)
Much much more....
There is a lot to take into consideration when trying to achieve 400hp. If the Drivetrain is stock TII for now, do reliability stuff first. Change all the fluids, give it a tune up, consider getting an elec. fan, an aluminum rad., and re-wiring the fuel pump. Also, port the wastegate of the turbo, and get a FCD. Then consider getting a wideband oxygen sensor system, and a EGT gauge. Don't forget a boost gauge if there isn't already one present.
Basic Modifications:
consider purchasing a walbro fuel pump, 720 or 750cc secondaries, and some sort of piggyback system to control the injectors, (unless you want to go full standalone at this point since your looking for more power in the future.) Also, get a full exhaust and downpipe (the 3" RB one you were looking at), and then a boost controller. At this point you should have all the necessary things to tune the car and get the full potential out of the stock turbo. Also, you can add the FMIC you were talking about for future use as well.
400hp:
BNR stage 3, if your talking 400 flywheel hp. At this point I would highly reccomend getting a standalone system. I guess using a e-mange would be acceptable, an has been done, however, a stand alone would probably yield better results, the cost is just much more. You will also have to once again purchase injectors, and then tuning of the will be required.
There are other things that will have to be done to the car before this point as well, such as an upgraded clutch...
Im sure there are some things I may have forgotten, or that need touched upon, so hopefully some others will offer their guidance and opinions as well and correct any errors I have made.
~Chris
09-21-05, 10:40 PM
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thank you for all the advice guys. so far I've gotten all the drivetrain converted to TII front to back, and all the fluids are fresh, no oil or vac leaks that i can detect (just finished the swap)
also thanks for the warning and concerns for letting me knwo what im gettign into. I;ve been reading the forusm every day tryign to gather as much info as i can before i talk and ask questions, basically the exhaust and FMIC are the first things on my list, and i wanted to make sure they are capable of handeling the goal. I'm pretty sure i wont see the 400 hp till after i rebuild the engine and port it..its stock port still
also thanks for the warning and concerns for letting me knwo what im gettign into. I;ve been reading the forusm every day tryign to gather as much info as i can before i talk and ask questions, basically the exhaust and FMIC are the first things on my list, and i wanted to make sure they are capable of handeling the goal. I'm pretty sure i wont see the 400 hp till after i rebuild the engine and port it..its stock port still
09-21-05, 11:04 PM
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one thing is, ignition. The stock FC ignition is pretty badass, but we've found out at about 400 is where it starts fuggin up. you can probly make it there and be ok but watch it.
09-22-05, 02:20 AM
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Originally Posted by cds00bsmg
Go with the RB 3" exhaust, and a 3 row Greddy should do it for you. But before we get into all of that, how much of the drivetrain is converted to TII? What are your other plans of "modification" to achieve 400hp? Have you taken into consideration:
Fuel needs? (Injectors, pump, AFPR)
Engine management? (Haltech, Motec, E-manage, etc.)
Much much more....
There is a lot to take into consideration when trying to achieve 400hp. If the Drivetrain is stock TII for now, do reliability stuff first. Change all the fluids, give it a tune up, consider getting an elec. fan, an aluminum rad., and re-wiring the fuel pump. Also, port the wastegate of the turbo, and get a FCD. Then consider getting a wideband oxygen sensor system, and a EGT gauge. Don't forget a boost gauge if there isn't already one present.
Basic Modifications:
consider purchasing a walbro fuel pump, 720 or 750cc secondaries, and some sort of piggyback system to control the injectors, (unless you want to go full standalone at this point since your looking for more power in the future.) Also, get a full exhaust and downpipe (the 3" RB one you were looking at), and then a boost controller. At this point you should have all the necessary things to tune the car and get the full potential out of the stock turbo. Also, you can add the FMIC you were talking about for future use as well.
400hp:
BNR stage 3, if your talking 400 flywheel hp. At this point I would highly reccomend getting a standalone system. I guess using a e-mange would be acceptable, an has been done, however, a stand alone would probably yield better results, the cost is just much more. You will also have to once again purchase injectors, and then tuning of the will be required.
There are other things that will have to be done to the car before this point as well, such as an upgraded clutch...
Im sure there are some things I may have forgotten, or that need touched upon, so hopefully some others will offer their guidance and opinions as well and correct any errors I have made.
~Chris
Fuel needs? (Injectors, pump, AFPR)
Engine management? (Haltech, Motec, E-manage, etc.)
Much much more....
There is a lot to take into consideration when trying to achieve 400hp. If the Drivetrain is stock TII for now, do reliability stuff first. Change all the fluids, give it a tune up, consider getting an elec. fan, an aluminum rad., and re-wiring the fuel pump. Also, port the wastegate of the turbo, and get a FCD. Then consider getting a wideband oxygen sensor system, and a EGT gauge. Don't forget a boost gauge if there isn't already one present.
Basic Modifications:
consider purchasing a walbro fuel pump, 720 or 750cc secondaries, and some sort of piggyback system to control the injectors, (unless you want to go full standalone at this point since your looking for more power in the future.) Also, get a full exhaust and downpipe (the 3" RB one you were looking at), and then a boost controller. At this point you should have all the necessary things to tune the car and get the full potential out of the stock turbo. Also, you can add the FMIC you were talking about for future use as well.
400hp:
BNR stage 3, if your talking 400 flywheel hp. At this point I would highly reccomend getting a standalone system. I guess using a e-mange would be acceptable, an has been done, however, a stand alone would probably yield better results, the cost is just much more. You will also have to once again purchase injectors, and then tuning of the will be required.
There are other things that will have to be done to the car before this point as well, such as an upgraded clutch...
Im sure there are some things I may have forgotten, or that need touched upon, so hopefully some others will offer their guidance and opinions as well and correct any errors I have made.
~Chris
a few things he missed was to upgrade to a cone filter, proper air ducting, and a BOV that will support 400hp
there are so many more things to consider but that's all i could think of. good luck with your project
09-22-05, 02:34 AM
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09-22-05, 07:16 AM
#8
Lets dispell some rumors to save this guy some money right now.
"Some people run the stock intercooler with 400 rwhp"
BS...Your will blow your motor with the first 4th gear pull. Get the larger front mount.
"400hp from a BNR"
BS...never seen a dyno proving this and I my opinion the stock backside is way to small and the air in is far to restricted by the air flow meter to get those numbers.
"400hp with RB duals"
Have not seen anyone hit this number with a RB dual. I plan to finally put this to bed when I dyno my setup with a corksport and then bolt up a friends RB dual and get some concrete numbers.
"400hp with a piggy back"
This is not going to happen because these tools control larger fuel injectors they don't retard timing and you will blow your motor. Best to get a full ems system and have one of the known rotary tuners dial you in.
"I can't get 400 with stock ports"
Yes you can with the proper ems/turbo/fuel setup 400 will be easy. 500 is a better goal
"720's for secondaries"
No you should go with minimum of a 550/1680's because they are cheap and most maps are already built for them. Plus you run out of fuel with a 550/720 combo way before 400.
their I saved you a few motors and plenty of money wasted buying the wrong **** listening to noobs on this forum.
"Some people run the stock intercooler with 400 rwhp"
BS...Your will blow your motor with the first 4th gear pull. Get the larger front mount.
"400hp from a BNR"
BS...never seen a dyno proving this and I my opinion the stock backside is way to small and the air in is far to restricted by the air flow meter to get those numbers.
"400hp with RB duals"
Have not seen anyone hit this number with a RB dual. I plan to finally put this to bed when I dyno my setup with a corksport and then bolt up a friends RB dual and get some concrete numbers.
"400hp with a piggy back"
This is not going to happen because these tools control larger fuel injectors they don't retard timing and you will blow your motor. Best to get a full ems system and have one of the known rotary tuners dial you in.
"I can't get 400 with stock ports"
Yes you can with the proper ems/turbo/fuel setup 400 will be easy. 500 is a better goal
"720's for secondaries"
No you should go with minimum of a 550/1680's because they are cheap and most maps are already built for them. Plus you run out of fuel with a 550/720 combo way before 400.
their I saved you a few motors and plenty of money wasted buying the wrong **** listening to noobs on this forum.
09-22-05, 08:01 AM
#9
Lives on the Forum
Originally Posted by Bukwild
"400hp with a piggy back"
This is not going to happen because these tools control larger fuel injectors they don't retard timing and you will blow your motor. Best to get a full ems system and have one of the known rotary tuners dial you in.
This is not going to happen because these tools control larger fuel injectors they don't retard timing and you will blow your motor. Best to get a full ems system and have one of the known rotary tuners dial you in.
-Ted
09-22-05, 08:11 AM
#10
The cheap S-AFC that most buy as their first or second mod. I am also unaware that boostd7 hit those numbers. Ted do you have a link to his post. Also Wargasm keeps all these numbers and setups on his site to catolog them and I had no seen this one last time I was on.
Congrats Boostd7.....
Congrats Boostd7.....
09-22-05, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Bukwild
"400hp with RB duals"
Have not seen anyone hit this number with a RB dual. I plan to finally put this to bed when I dyno my setup with a corksport and then bolt up a friends RB dual and get some concrete numbers.
"I can't get 400 with stock ports"
Yes you can with the proper ems/turbo/fuel setup 400 will be easy. 500 is a better goal
.
Have not seen anyone hit this number with a RB dual. I plan to finally put this to bed when I dyno my setup with a corksport and then bolt up a friends RB dual and get some concrete numbers.
"I can't get 400 with stock ports"
Yes you can with the proper ems/turbo/fuel setup 400 will be easy. 500 is a better goal
.
and my need larger ports was just an assumption (yes i made us asses) thnx for the correction
09-22-05, 10:02 AM
#12
Passing life by
Bukwild guitarjunkie just dynod a customers car at over 400WHP on a BNR.
SonicRat hit 450whp on stock ports it can be done meany others have done it as well.
I am working for 450 right now and I will be doing it on a RB catback system.
osiris7442 - You can do it on a 3in dp and a RB system. The RB catback system is 60mm on each pipe thats right at 4.5in of flow and the dp assembly is 80mm just over 3in.
SonicRat hit 450whp on stock ports it can be done meany others have done it as well.
I am working for 450 right now and I will be doing it on a RB catback system.
osiris7442 - You can do it on a 3in dp and a RB system. The RB catback system is 60mm on each pipe thats right at 4.5in of flow and the dp assembly is 80mm just over 3in.
09-22-05, 10:33 AM
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1.)I figured that a full 3" exhaust was more than enough to achieve 400hp at the flywheel. RB's what, "race system" is full 3" I thought...
2.)I didn't mean an S-AFC either, I listed a e-mange or F-CON, as well as haltech and microtech. A e-mange CAN control timing as wel with the additional harness.
3.)I said a BNR should be able to get him 400hp and the flywheel, I never claimed at the wheels, I am not aware if this has been achieved yet or not.
4.)720cc secondaries for basic modification was what I stated, when we got to the 400hp mark I said he would once again need injectors. I also preached my opinion of going with an EMS, however I know Dale Clark, and probably some others have used an e-mange with a BNR stage 3.
5.) Yea I forgot a BOV, and cone filter ducted correctly, and some other things.
This is why I stated at the bottom I probably forgot some things, and said that some other HELPFULL members would fill in the rest for me, or correct my errors. Not criticize the help I gave and be a jackass. This is one of the main reasons my post count is low, Ive been a member almost as long as Bukwild, but usually some other memeber will get on and tear you a new *** hole when you post if your information is not 110% right. I did my best, and I feel I gave some fairly sound advice. I didnt tell him to go get a BNR stage III and just bolt it on and go because its a direct fit....
Back to some other issue addressed, the stock rad. If its in good shape, I would assume it would be alright to use, I am not sure if it will hold for 400hp or not, I just figured that an alum. rad was a good mod over a old unit. Also, the electric fan will save some room in my opinion, once again, I am not sure about the stock fan and how many CFM it will flow (has anyone ever checked that?)
Lets stick to addressing his concerns and questions. You can get the FMIC and exhaust you are looking at, sure thing. Please be sure to get a Fuel Cut Defender as well, because you are going to encounter more boost when up-grading your exhaust. Also, look into getting your Turbo wastegate ported.
~Chris
2.)I didn't mean an S-AFC either, I listed a e-mange or F-CON, as well as haltech and microtech. A e-mange CAN control timing as wel with the additional harness.
3.)I said a BNR should be able to get him 400hp and the flywheel, I never claimed at the wheels, I am not aware if this has been achieved yet or not.
4.)720cc secondaries for basic modification was what I stated, when we got to the 400hp mark I said he would once again need injectors. I also preached my opinion of going with an EMS, however I know Dale Clark, and probably some others have used an e-mange with a BNR stage 3.
5.) Yea I forgot a BOV, and cone filter ducted correctly, and some other things.
This is why I stated at the bottom I probably forgot some things, and said that some other HELPFULL members would fill in the rest for me, or correct my errors. Not criticize the help I gave and be a jackass. This is one of the main reasons my post count is low, Ive been a member almost as long as Bukwild, but usually some other memeber will get on and tear you a new *** hole when you post if your information is not 110% right. I did my best, and I feel I gave some fairly sound advice. I didnt tell him to go get a BNR stage III and just bolt it on and go because its a direct fit....
Back to some other issue addressed, the stock rad. If its in good shape, I would assume it would be alright to use, I am not sure if it will hold for 400hp or not, I just figured that an alum. rad was a good mod over a old unit. Also, the electric fan will save some room in my opinion, once again, I am not sure about the stock fan and how many CFM it will flow (has anyone ever checked that?)
Lets stick to addressing his concerns and questions. You can get the FMIC and exhaust you are looking at, sure thing. Please be sure to get a Fuel Cut Defender as well, because you are going to encounter more boost when up-grading your exhaust. Also, look into getting your Turbo wastegate ported.
~Chris
Last edited by cds00bsmg; 09-22-05 at 10:37 AM.
09-22-05, 10:38 AM
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I was just about to ask about the boost creep from the exhaust cds, Will the extra 2-3 psi that the RB website claims creat a problem...i.e. do i nee to put in a 720 secendary injector right away, or is that increas not enought to cause detonation?
09-22-05, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by RotaryJun
shouldn't the stock radiator fan be sufficient enough? i've heard that tuners typically switch to an e-fan if their clutch fan dies...
a few things he missed was to upgrade to a cone filter, proper air ducting, and a BOV that will support 400hp
there are so many more things to consider but that's all i could think of. good luck with your project
a few things he missed was to upgrade to a cone filter, proper air ducting, and a BOV that will support 400hp
there are so many more things to consider but that's all i could think of. good luck with your project
&*(&^*&%&*^%())*()*(^ NO! the stock radiator needs to be upgraded.... when you start making big HP numbers you need a FMIC.. thus you're blockin some air from the rad.... ALSO.. the stock rad has plastic tanks.. this is Baaaaaaad.. you want to go with an all aluminum, larger capacity radiator... I wouldn't even trust the Koyo with 400 HP... I'd be lookin at the AWR or a Griffin or something, you'll have to modify the mounting a bit.. but, there's plenty of guys ot there that have done it...
E-Fans..... I'm not a big fan of E-Fans on Highly modified cars... but, i aint got time to get into that now....
09-22-05, 11:01 AM
#17
Originally Posted by cds00bsmg
sent ya a PM
As for the boost creep issure the Minute you add either a cone filter intake or a High flow exhaust or even just remove the cats from your stock exhaust you should Port your wastegate on your stock turbo you will get boost creep. as for your 400whp goal here is what I suggest in what order.
Greddy VSPL intercooler kit good for 400 rwhp (proven)
Aftermarket Blow Off Valve
Cone Filter intake
Port wastegate
Boost Gauge
EGT gauge
High Flow exhaust with FCD
High flow fuel pump
clutch capable of supporting your goal
The following should be bought and installed all at the same time;
-Haltech, microtech, motech, emanage (with ignition), whatever your choice is
-Wide Band Oxygen sensor that will link with your stand alone choice to data log
-1600-1680 secondary injectors (keeping stock 550's in your primaries is just fine)
-colder spark plugs all arround both leading and trailing
- new spark plug wires
- if you didn't do so when you installed your stand alone a fuel pump rewire is in order
- The turbo/WG/manifold of your choice there are many out there just research for what you want
NOW THE MOST IMPORTANT PART HAVE A PROFFESSIONAL EXPERIENCE ROTARY TUNER install and tune your car. (it will save you engines and many headaches in the end)
Last edited by jreynish; 09-22-05 at 11:04 AM.
09-22-05, 11:08 AM
#18
Originally Posted by YearsOfDecay
&*(&^*&%&*^%())*()*(^ NO! the stock radiator needs to be upgraded.... when you start making big HP numbers you need a FMIC.. thus you're blockin some air from the rad.... ALSO.. the stock rad has plastic tanks.. this is Baaaaaaad.. you want to go with an all aluminum, larger capacity radiator... I wouldn't even trust the Koyo with 400 HP... I'd be lookin at the AWR or a Griffin or something, you'll have to modify the mounting a bit.. but, there's plenty of guys ot there that have done it...
Originally Posted by YearsOfDecay
E-Fans..... I'm not a big fan of E-Fans on Highly modified cars... but, i aint got time to get into that now....
09-22-05, 11:26 AM
#19
Sorry cds00bsmg I didn't mean anything negative by my post but we get one of these a week around here so its sometimes easier to get everthing true or false (in your own personal experiance) on what works and whats a waste of time and money and will need to be changed out. Kinda of a buy it right the first time thing.
Oh and let me add two things to this list. A 50mm wastegate and a 50mm BOV. I have the greddy type-s now and I have to rebuy the type-r that can handle the higher boost.
I also was unaware that someone did hit 400 with a bnr. This was without the stock AFM and was with full ems right and race gas right?
Oh and let me add two things to this list. A 50mm wastegate and a 50mm BOV. I have the greddy type-s now and I have to rebuy the type-r that can handle the higher boost.
I also was unaware that someone did hit 400 with a bnr. This was without the stock AFM and was with full ems right and race gas right?
09-22-05, 11:39 AM
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i really appreciate all your imput guys thanks
in respost to jreynish, abtou having a professions install everything....I will def have a prof. tune it, and prolly install the haltech (which is what i'll prolly go with) because im nto good with the electronic side of things, but i certainly want to do most of the work myself, thats the whole reason i got the car
.....im lucky however, i have access to lifts and every tool in the world cause i live above a garage
in respost to jreynish, abtou having a professions install everything....I will def have a prof. tune it, and prolly install the haltech (which is what i'll prolly go with) because im nto good with the electronic side of things, but i certainly want to do most of the work myself, thats the whole reason i got the car
.....im lucky however, i have access to lifts and every tool in the world cause i live above a garage
09-22-05, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by jreynish
All though this isn't the thread to argue the point I just want to say that I disagree with what you are saying here. If it were on the track and this car would always be running 400hp all the time then yes I would suggest and upgraded rad. However if the stock rad is in good condition the fmic will not show any real change in coolant temperature. I logged many hot days vs many cold days on my haltech and there was a 2-8 degree celcius difference in coolant temps.
This I totally agree with I am not a fac of e-fans for replacing the stock clutch fan and shroud
This I totally agree with I am not a fac of e-fans for replacing the stock clutch fan and shroud
I know there are guys running the stock rads in 300+ HP cars....... but its a time bomb... its getting to the 15-20 year old range.... good condition or not... its prone to cracking at this age, especially around the coolant temperature sensor bung and the filler cap..
Also.. corrosion inside the core cannot be seen.. and most of the stock rads i've seen (cut apart with a sawsall) have been HEEEEEEEEdious inside... (I've cut 5 apart out of "project Cars" that had bad rads (no sense cuttin up a good rad, ya know if you're fixin a car to sell!!!!!).... one looked halfway decent, but had cracked arounf the coolant temp sensor.. two had sprung leaks at the bottom of the core and were at least 50% blocked with what can only be described as "Mung", one looked like the bottom was filled with orage play-doh and one actually was so rotten that it was crumbling (that guy must have NEVER changed the coolant)
NOW.... add an E-fan to the mix.. where the temps are constantly fluxuating.... forget it...
Remember, it only takes ONCE to overheat it and blow the coolant seals....
When you can get a good upgrade rad for less than 400 bux..... its just not a smart move to spend all that money on Go Fast Parts and then ignor the coolant system.. ESPECIALLY if you are planning to add an e-fan...
09-22-05, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Bukwild
I also was unaware that someone did hit 400 with a bnr. This was without the stock AFM and was with full ems right and race gas right?
Yes, this was with a Microtech, with race gas, and on a street ported 13B-RE, so no 400 rwhp hybrids on a 13BT that I know of.
09-22-05, 11:57 AM
#23
Originally Posted by YearsOfDecay
I know there are guys running the stock rads in 300+ HP cars....... but its a time bomb... its getting to the 15-20 year old range.... good condition or not... its prone to cracking at this age, especially around the coolant temperature sensor bung and the filler cap..
Also.. corrosion inside the core cannot be seen.. and most of the stock rads i've seen (cut apart with a sawsall) have been HEEEEEEEEdious inside... (I've cut 5 apart out of "project Cars" that had bad rads (no sense cuttin up a good rad, ya know if you're fixin a car to sell!!!!!).... one looked halfway decent, but had cracked arounf the coolant temp sensor.. two had sprung leaks at the bottom of the core and were at least 50% blocked with what can only be described as "Mung", one looked like the bottom was filled with orage play-doh and one actually was so rotten that it was crumbling (that guy must have NEVER changed the coolant)
NOW.... add an E-fan to the mix.. where the temps are constantly fluxuating.... forget it...
Remember, it only takes ONCE to overheat it and blow the coolant seals....
When you can get a good upgrade rad for less than 400 bux..... its just not a smart move to spend all that money on Go Fast Parts and then ignor the coolant system.. ESPECIALLY if you are planning to add an e-fan...
Also.. corrosion inside the core cannot be seen.. and most of the stock rads i've seen (cut apart with a sawsall) have been HEEEEEEEEdious inside... (I've cut 5 apart out of "project Cars" that had bad rads (no sense cuttin up a good rad, ya know if you're fixin a car to sell!!!!!).... one looked halfway decent, but had cracked arounf the coolant temp sensor.. two had sprung leaks at the bottom of the core and were at least 50% blocked with what can only be described as "Mung", one looked like the bottom was filled with orage play-doh and one actually was so rotten that it was crumbling (that guy must have NEVER changed the coolant)
NOW.... add an E-fan to the mix.. where the temps are constantly fluxuating.... forget it...
Remember, it only takes ONCE to overheat it and blow the coolant seals....
When you can get a good upgrade rad for less than 400 bux..... its just not a smart move to spend all that money on Go Fast Parts and then ignor the coolant system.. ESPECIALLY if you are planning to add an e-fan...
09-22-05, 12:16 PM
#24
"I will def have a prof. tune it, and prolly install the haltech. "
If you go with a haltech contact k2rd. They made me a preterminated wiring harness for $110 that was a huge help.
"Yes, this was with a Microtech, with race gas, and on a street ported 13B-RE, so no 400 rwhp hybrids on a 13BT that I know of."
Yeah I kinda figured that it had to be without the AFM and on race gas for that. The RE has huge ports compared to the 13bt. My next motor will be a hybrid RE. I would not measure any rwhp numbers with race gas unless you plan to run it all the time. No use claiming your running 460 on 22lbs or so but the real number is 380 on pump 15lbs when you are driving the car. But i do consider the guys running fuel additives like water injection numbers because they are always running that setup when you meet them on the street and or the track. Just my opinion.
If you go with a haltech contact k2rd. They made me a preterminated wiring harness for $110 that was a huge help.
"Yes, this was with a Microtech, with race gas, and on a street ported 13B-RE, so no 400 rwhp hybrids on a 13BT that I know of."
Yeah I kinda figured that it had to be without the AFM and on race gas for that. The RE has huge ports compared to the 13bt. My next motor will be a hybrid RE. I would not measure any rwhp numbers with race gas unless you plan to run it all the time. No use claiming your running 460 on 22lbs or so but the real number is 380 on pump 15lbs when you are driving the car. But i do consider the guys running fuel additives like water injection numbers because they are always running that setup when you meet them on the street and or the track. Just my opinion.
09-22-05, 12:20 PM
#25
Originally Posted by tIIsleeper
Some people run the stock intercooler with 400 rwhp, its not that great of an idea , but the greddy fmic can do it for ya. The racing beat exhaust is the best out there for an fc. Unless you want custom.