ok i just posted my car wqas smoking real bad and i just went out there to warm it up for work and i started it it reved all the way to 7 grand then almost quiyt before i caught it and now it only idels at 900rpm whats wrong i need to get to work

 

Stuck throttle? Examine the throttle body area for anything that is stiff and sticking.

 

well it isnt stuck now but it still ideling at 900rpm and it used to go up to 3000rpm when u first start it and now it dosnt do that

 

Disconnected thermo switch on the lower driver side of the rad, and/or bad AWS solenoid.

900 RPM idle could be anything. TPS, vacuum leak, etc. Stock idle is 750.

 

is it really when its down at 900 it shakes the whole car really bad

 

not good....check the rear rotor for compression loss

 

uh, it might just be my car, but im fine idling at 800rpm.

 

well now my car wont even start it just cranks but wont even try to start

 

like i said before...loss of compression to the rear rotor being shot(apex seal)...they will run with the rear rotor bad but will run like ****..as in very unbalanced causing the car to shake..then when they cool of they wont like to start at all...so my bet is two seal are gone..with only one apex seal gone the car should start a little easier...just take out the rear plug and EGI fuse and startthe motor..you will hear three very loud PSHH sound..if not(only one lloud PSH and then two or one different PSH soudn then you know what is up..of course a real comp tester would be better

 

wish I could type better..not bad for one handed and baby in the other

 

ok cool i just tried to order a rebuild kit from my mazda dealer and they barley knew what i was talking about they said it was 300 dollars but r the factory kits ne good

 

yes..but before you buy you shoudl have someone look at your car to diagnose the fault..kind if hard to do so over the net...just sharing MY thoughts...i have blown a few motors over the last 16 years and blown rear rotor motors act liek this..but get it checked FIRST!