HEVNSNT

iTrader: (3)

The pic shows the ball joint of my S5. I removed the bolt that clamps the knuckle to the ball joint (you can see the hole where the bolt is removed just above the ball joint rubber boot). The ball joint looks like it is a bolt that is clamped to the knuckle but it is not a bolt. It is tapered though which is why I am having a problem. Since it is tapered at the top it will not allow me to slide the ball joint out unless I pry apart the clamping device. Is this what I have to do? Or do I have to grind the top tapered end off and use a new ball joint? Thanks to anyone who can help.

Ranzo

Basically you have to pound that thing out of there. You might want to pry open the clamp there. It would probably be better to put the nut back on the top and screw it down a few threads befor pounding on the joint so the threads don't get messed up. If you are replacing the joint though you might not care.


Randy....

BhamBill

You could also rent a ball-joint removing tool. It's like a pickle fork and you pound it in between the ball joint and the clamp.

Scott 89t2

I think it should just slide out. you might have to prey it apart abit I guess. the bolt has to be all the way out though because the ball joint has a grove that the bolt sits in.

also far as I know you can't replace the ball joints on the S5s, only the S4s which unbolt. you need to buy the whole control arm to replace it.

Jerk_Racer

It can come out without having to destroy it. You will have to replace the whole arm if you do. Lovely Mazda design. It just takes a few good whacks. It will be tight no matter what. When I did it I was removing the lower arm to put some polyurethane bushings on. Have a buddy pry a screwdriver into that slot to make it a smidgen looser and whack away.

jerk_racer@hotmail.com

HEVNSNT

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for your help guys. I have the ball joint removing tool but I guess you wouldn't know unless you tried to do it yourself (I appologize I don't mean to be rude). Its just that the ball joint looks like it slides into the clamp from underneath but at the top its tapered so it won't let me slide it back out without damaging the clamp or the ball joint.

HEVNSNT

iTrader: (3)

Wow got a few responses before I posted. Anyways again thanks for everyones help. Jerk Racer.....you said you had to pry clamp apart then push ball joint out? (I guess by either hacking at it or with ball joint tool). So is the ball joint tapered at the top require having to pry clamp apart to allow tapered section to pass through? This is what it looks like to me. Thanks.

BTW: I am not replacing the ball joints, I am replacing the wheel studs and would like to remove steering knuckle.

Scott 89t2

wheel studs?? leave the ball joint on!!! take off the wheel bearings and pull the rotor and hub off. the studs are not part of the knuckle.

Thrasher

when I dropped my gf's front suspension due to a wreck I just tapped the wheel underneeth the ball joint and wiggled alot, then it just slid right off (but it also hit a curb at 40 mph so that prob loosned it up alot huh?

HEVNSNT

iTrader: (3)

Heres another pic of what I'm trying to do. The arrow is pointing to what looks like a bolt but is not. This rod thingy is looks to be tapered so will not pass through clamp without prying clamp. I guess this is what I'll have to do. Scott....you said that the wheel studs are attached to the hub but isn't the but also attached to the knuckle? Thanks everyone for your help, I will continue tomorrow.

Scott 89t2

if you are only changing the studs you are doing it wrong. bolt the strut and ball joint back up. pull off the brake caliper and rotor, then take the metal cap off the middle of hub and remove that nut, the whole hub with the studs pulls off the knuckle. if you remove the knuckle from the car you still need to pull the hub off of it I'm sure.

you just have to make sure you put the wheel bearings and that center nut back on and tighten correctly. take a look at the manuals at www.fc3s.org for wheel bearings

guru

Sorry for the late reply, I read the posts and if you are trying to just pull the bj out, place a jack under the arm of the spindle that runs to the tie rod. This way when you hit the control arm down it an effort to loosen the bj no energy is lost. This to is assuming your puller is not effective. Now, if you just want to do the wheels studs, everyone is right; button everything back up. remove the caliper, then remove the cotter pin and caps that cover the spindle nut, remove the spindle nut(use big pliers) and pull! The whole assembly will fall into your lap, no need to remove the bj. i do see where you were going though. good luck

Guru