Howdy, I am trying to replace the thermal oil pellet on my 91 Vert and can't get the !@#$%^&*I( main pully bolt off.

I'm hitting it with a 3/4 inch impact wrench that has over 700 ft-lbs of torque.

Stupid Question:

Does leftie lucy, righty tightie apply to this bolt? I'd hate to be trying to loosen a reverse thread bolt.

Any tips? I don't want to use the starter trick with a bar. I'd have to run out to the hardware store and get some pipe to do this since I don't have a breaker bar long enough.

Would heating the bolt up with a torch help?

Thank,
Homebrewer

 

I just posted a similar thread myself lol, I'm replacing my main pulley with an underdrive. no word yet but if you figure it out let me know

 

Basically it took me about a 1\2 hour with an impact and a can of WD-40, pain in the ***.

edit: it is a normal thread

 

Isn't this the nut that you have to have the clutch pushed in while removing so that the bearings don't slip?

 

Ok, here's what it took. Heating with torch, multiple WD-40 sprays (don't start a fire, be careful) and one big *** torque wrench and 30 minutes of pounding on it. Mission accomplished.

How do I double check to make sure I didn't **** those torrington bearings up? My clutch was in the entire time. I just want to be safe.
THanks,
HB

 

The fsm has a way of checking to see if the bearing has fallen. You measure from the front of the eshaft to the face of the hub. The dimension is 0.0961 I THINK. See the fsm for the correct figure. There's an illustration of what I just wrote. ENGINE ASSY SECTION.

With the engine in the car I've used a Craftsman breakover bar and socket. Put the socket on the nut.....lay the breakover against the frame (left frame of the car)......turn the key to START. The jolt will break the nut. It may take two or three tries. Out of the car I use a torch and a breakover bar and a twenty lb sledge hammer. Measured blows. Same effect as a impact gun.

I've never dropped a torrington bearing.

 

okay you kicked the engine with a breaker bar on the eg nut??!?!?!?!?! YOU'RE INSANE!! LOL

 

Just in case someone does not know.........that nut is put on with 90ft/lb of torque AND should have LOCKTITE put on the threads. The heat from a torch will break down the locktite. I'd suggest using a new o'ring when reinstalling the front bolt if you used a torch.

 

Well I dont understand why you guys have so much problem removing this bitch

I simply put the engine upside down on the flywheel ( to avoid the bearing from falling ) and I used an ELECTRIC ( not even pneumatic ) impact wrench and it went out in not even 10 seconds...

with engine in car, simply floor the clutch pedal...

Is it normal for me that this bolt came out so easily????

 

Yes, I do this all the time.
So what's the problem?


-Ted

 

I think I left the impression that I started the engine. Not so. Ignition disengaged. Bump the starter.

If I took that nut off with little effort as described in an above post, I'd suspect that someone who installed it did not use locktite and torque to fsm spec.

 

Attached is the measurement for checking if you have everything in place before putting the bolt on.