Help fixing my horn.
#1
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Help fixing my horn.
My horn had been working, but I removed the steering wheel for maybe 10 minutes and once I reinstalled the wheel, the horn no longer works. When I push the horn button I can hear a click near the clutch pedal where the fuse box is. I believe it is the horn relay that I hear but then no horn. What could cause this and how could I fix it?
#2
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The horn relay is in the nose of the car.
Remove the steering wheel again.
Behind the wheel is the turnsignal unit and protruding from that is a spring loaded pin...this is the horn circuit.
If you bridge that pin to the steering column (a screwdriver will work), the horn should sound.
If so, the horn circuit/fuse is fine.
That pin contacts the brass slipring on the back of the steering wheel.
There is a wire connected to the slipring that either goes to the horn buttons (two spoke wheel) or the center pad (three spoke wheel)...make sure it's connected.
Remove the steering wheel again.
Behind the wheel is the turnsignal unit and protruding from that is a spring loaded pin...this is the horn circuit.
If you bridge that pin to the steering column (a screwdriver will work), the horn should sound.
If so, the horn circuit/fuse is fine.
That pin contacts the brass slipring on the back of the steering wheel.
There is a wire connected to the slipring that either goes to the horn buttons (two spoke wheel) or the center pad (three spoke wheel)...make sure it's connected.
#4
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The horn relay is in the nose of the car.
Remove the steering wheel again.
Behind the wheel is the turnsignal unit and protruding from that is a spring loaded pin...this is the horn circuit.
If you bridge that pin to the steering column (a screwdriver will work), the horn should sound.
If so, the horn circuit/fuse is fine.
That pin contacts the brass slipring on the back of the steering wheel.
There is a wire connected to the slipring that either goes to the horn buttons (two spoke wheel) or the center pad (three spoke wheel)...make sure it's connected.
Remove the steering wheel again.
Behind the wheel is the turnsignal unit and protruding from that is a spring loaded pin...this is the horn circuit.
If you bridge that pin to the steering column (a screwdriver will work), the horn should sound.
If so, the horn circuit/fuse is fine.
That pin contacts the brass slipring on the back of the steering wheel.
There is a wire connected to the slipring that either goes to the horn buttons (two spoke wheel) or the center pad (three spoke wheel)...make sure it's connected.
The battery is low, I have been having to jump the car everytime I crank it the last few days. Once I jump it and the car is running it will run on its own though. If the battery is just slightly low will this cause the horn not to work.
#5
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The largest plug on the CPU houses the 3 wires that go to the horn relay. Green/White always has voltage, Green/Orange supplies the ground when the horn button on the steering wheel is depressed and the Green/Red wire supplies the voltage to the horn themselves. If you jumpered the G/O wire to a ground then the horn should sound as long as the battery has sufficient power to it and the Horn fuse is good, which since you hear the click coming from the horn relay that would indicate the fuse is good.
#6
Cake or Death?
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I tried the screwdriver thing when I took the wheel back off to see if something was wrong and it didn't help. The horn button on the center pad is connected inside the steering wheel. It's starting to make me wonder if its just being complicated haha.
The battery is low, I have been having to jump the car everytime I crank it the last few days. Once I jump it and the car is running it will run on its own though. If the battery is just slightly low will this cause the horn not to work.
The battery is low, I have been having to jump the car everytime I crank it the last few days. Once I jump it and the car is running it will run on its own though. If the battery is just slightly low will this cause the horn not to work.
The horn circuit is about as simple as it gets.
With the steering wheel off, push the spring loaded horn pin back and make sure the wire is still connected to it's end.
If so, check continuity between that pin and the relay.
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#8
Cake or Death?
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The largest plug on the CPU houses the 3 wires that go to the horn relay. Green/White always has voltage, Green/Orange supplies the ground when the horn button on the steering wheel is depressed and the Green/Red wire supplies the voltage to the horn themselves. If you jumpered the G/O wire to a ground then the horn should sound as long as the battery has sufficient power to it and the Horn fuse is good, which since you hear the click coming from the horn relay that would indicate the fuse is good.
I sometimes forget that my car isn't normal/stock.
That said, the way you describe it, the stock setup is absolutely retarded.
#9
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I hear nothing when I press the button other than the clicking in the relay so I know the signal is traveling that far. The battery is low, so I will charge it and try that and also jumpering the G/O wire together to see if I can get anything.
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Ok. I understand what you are saying. It would be somewhere from the horn button to the CPU. Would that be the problem though since I can here the clicking there has to be a signal getting there?
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I haven't had a chance to just yet with college and work so far this week. I am going to tomorrow to see if that helps anything.
That I'm not exactly sure about.
That I'm not exactly sure about.
#24
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I'm not really trying to be funny other than to point out you have been provided with enough information to get at the root cause of your problem. We and others can talk about it all day but that in itself isn't going to solve your problem as diagnosing the problem is realistically your only hope.
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