First of all, Im getting no spark.

I was told to check the brown with white stripe wire on the pressure sensor for voltage, I was looking for 5 volts. I was getting 0.4volts.

So ive spent the afternoon probing the ecu.

I opened it up and looked inside for visual damage, saw none. No burn circuits, transistors, resistors, or anyting else I could see.

With only socket one and three plugged into the ecu (middle unplugged), I probed the ecu at pin 2I (the brown wire with white stripe). I was getting a solid 5 volts from it, which I think mean s theres something else in coming off of that #2 circuit that is sucking all the power. Now I jsut need to know what it is, but have no diea as to what I should do to start checking. any suggestions?

 

the ECU board runs at 5 volts. There is nothing wrong with it.

There will be 5 volts on the outputs that have switches, sensors, or varible resistors that go to ground.

 

thaats jsut the problem ice...

the output on the pin (with the harness removed) is 5v, yet if reconnected, when I take the reading at the pressure sensor (same brown and white wire) it is dropped to .4vdc, I cant figure out why.

aswell, wires 1b and 1c on the harness have been previously snipped, stripped, then shittily tape back together. theyre basically connected now sicne all the wires are poking out. no idea what thats effecting...

and if it makes a potential differnece, when I peeled back the carpet, the whole underside (the yellow foam ****) was wet, stank like sweat too. ecu didnt seem to be wet though

 

Just what year car is this? I was refering to a series four car earlier NOT a series five. The pinouts are different.

Never mind. I re-read your other thread and it's a 90. Ignore what I said about 2a being the ref voltage output.

 

Go to all the items fed by 2I and disconnect them. The afm, tps, boost sensor, omp motor, etc. One might be pulling the voltage down.

 

My goodness. 1B is 12vdc from the Main Relay and 1C is a signal that your now starting the engine. Comes from the ignition switch. You have to have 1B.

You NEED to download the FUEL SECTION of the series five fsm.

 

yup I went through and got the correct pinouts for my year hailers, I realised pretty quick the info I got from you was wrong.

so I should jsut go through the #2 socket sensors? ie... AFM, water thermosensor, that kind of thing? and unplug them until I get my 5v back on the brown/white wire at the pressure sensor?

 

aswell... the fellow before me installed his own alarm. Im guessing he was messing with these wires when trying to hook up some kind of ignition kill switch. I also saw some of him crimps near the ignition switch, but never looked into how he had connected them. either way, ill be tearing out his work and installing MY alarm and locks. I still wonder why he turned that harness ito such a hackjob though

 

You need a series five wiring schematic to see what was fed by that 2I. Some of them i mentioned above. Try to disconnect them at their sources. The afm,tps,boost sensor, omp plug etc. I don't have all the parts at hand right now. Unplug them and see if when you backprobe 2I if the 5vdc comes up from .4vdc to 5.

 

alright its getting late but ill give it all a try tomorrow. thanks hailers. youre always there for me and my electic issues!! <3

 

I looked at the schematic for a 90. I see only four things that 2I feeds. The tps, afm, mop and boost sensor. I'd pull all four plugs off, turn the key to ON and check the brown/white wire at each plug disconnected and see if all four have just .4 or have?????????????????

 

ok good. im glad there are only for. I never got a chance to check today, too busy painting wheels with a buddy, bud I will get on it in the morning. hopefully its a bad MOP, im taking it out anyways!

 

UPDATE:

well after trying all your suggestions and failing, I found myself snooping through the engine bay for answers, then I saw it. Located out of the two white harnesses above the alternator, a lone blue wire had been pinched and seperated. Yes! I recconected it, and BAM, 5v at 2I constant. power to the plugs. Im jsut in the midst of trying to get her started now. Im cranking and its starting to kick a little... maybe ill try unflooding a couple more times! Weee!

But now Im thinking, this was only one of two problems, the other being my fried coolant seal. Should I even be trying to turn it over with no coolant? My plan was to jsut get it going, then turn it off imidietly, then start tearing down the block for shipment. Should I not even bother? Is it dangerouos for the engine if I start it with no coolant? Even for jsut a couple seconds?

 

A couple of seconds to a couple of minutes will do no harm to a engine that already has a blown seal. I'm not quite sure why you want to start it though.

 

I dont know. Its been a couple weeks and I jsut miss her. thats all.

I think its going to scrap it though. Its kicking a bit but it wont fire... dont seem to be geting spark on the trailing wires either.. weird.

but yeah, too much coolant in there it doesnt seem to be kickin in. Sounds like it wants to, but it wont, so im goign to start stripping it down to the core tomorrow.