I'm swapping the rear diff. from a GTU (with LSD) into my GX (I guess it's a canadian model, but it just has the cheap open diff)...

I'm close to done swapping, but it would seem the sizes are 'slightly' different... I can force the differential onto the bolts (buy stretching the upper bushings), but then the subframe seems slightly out...

has anyone else done this? is it possible to just force things together?

Thanks for any info.

 

the only differences i know of are between N/a and TII differentials.

 

I swapped difs out, they are a pain in the *** to get lined back up right. More than likely its just a matter of what angle you're installing it on.

Drop the subframe and crossmember a couple inches or so. Then you should be able to slide it over the crossmember and line the rear mounts up without bending anything-- the two rear nut/bolt/studs should just line right up.

If you have the subframe still up, it'd be near impossble to get that right angle for those things.


Now for a MSPaint rendition, because I'm bored.

 

thanks for the response, and highly technical drawings

we actually tried both... putting the rear mounts on first (loosely), and then putting the crossmember back up / putting the crossmember up first, and the rear mounts on after, but I guess it's just that we have to get everything up at basically the same time?

should I put the one sub-link bolt (in the middle) on first? to sort of act as a pivot point? or put that on after?

 

mspaint.exe pro hard at work!

 

Um, not to **** in your cheerios, but unless it's an '88 GTU, which are pretty rare, it doesn't have an LSD.

 

I'm not dumb enough to have not checked first :P... it has the metal tag on it that says to only use LSD fluid...

 

Actually the sublink was the second to last thing I connected. I connected it after I got the crossmember high enough for it to reach, then I tightened the crossmember, then the rears. then went back and tightened teh sublink and retorqued the bolts to spec