Okay, my dad and I just replaced the clucth master and slave cylinders and are in the process of bleeding it. But the clutch pedal is staying to the floor, not springing back. We took out the slaves bleeder screw and are pumping it relentlessly but it stiffins but still isn't comming back. Help? Yes I searched.

 

Ok....you got to have that bleeder screw in place....you just loosen it a little...one of you then pushes in on the clutch...then tighten the screw with the clutch all the way to the floor...then you may have to pull up on the clutch .....then do the process over and over till it comes up by itself.....if you dont tighten that screw with the clutch down...she will suck air back in the line when you let it up.....the idea is to push the air out along with some fluid by pushing in on the clutch....tighten the screw to pull the clutch back up....4 to ten times will do it....but make sure the fluid doesnt gett to low in the reservoir....

now...with all these bloomin' proxy errors I hope you get this message....past few days it s been like trying to bleed a master cylinder with the bleeder screw wide open....

 

haha thank you so much I'll try right now. I called a shop and he was telling me to get under the car and bleed the tranny its self?

 

The clutch master and slave cylinders are isolated from the tranny fluid.

There is a type of bleeder screw available called a speed bleeder. It has a small check valve in it that lets you loosen it, the pump the pedal and it prevents are from entering without you having to keep tightening the bleeder after every pump. You only tighten it when you are done. They make them for brakes and clutch cylinders. You'll have to do a search on here to find out what size are for RX-7s, but the web site is www.speedbleeder.com

 

Okay I think I may have figured it out. Bleeder screw out, master cap off, fluid full, letting it flow threw and refill the system on its own, gravity. Then after it starts to dripple out the slave(bleeder screw), start bleedind process.

Sound right? Any tips?

 

Leave the cap on to the reservoir on.

1. Loosen bleeder screw

2. Press and hold pedal to the floor

3. Tighten bleeder screw

4. Release pedal. You may have to pull it up by hand if it doesn't return by itself.

5. Check fluid in reservoir, add as required.

6. Start over at step 1 until you get a constant stream of fluid from the bleeder port with no air bubbles and the clutch returns by itself. The best way is to have a small hose connected to the bleeder and the other end of the hose in a clear jar with fluid in it. Submerge this end of the hose. It will blow bubbles in the fluid if air comes out. Just keep doing this until the pedal returns by itself and no air comes out. It doesn't take much to drain the reservoir so make sure you check it after each cycle. If it gets empty it will suck in air. Shouldn't take 2 people more then 10 minutes to get 'er done.

 

Alright, thanks man. I'm still at it.

 

guys no matter how long I try this, the pedel doesn't return..... help.

 

Try this...it was a breeze:
1. Close the bleeder finger tight
2. Pump pedal several times (5-10) to build up pressure (you really wont feel any resistance) and last one keep pedal against floor-you can use a block of wood.
3. Open bleeder and fluid should start to come out. After a second or two close the bleeder again
4. Repeat process

 

okay thanks, I'll try it. I'm filling the resevoir and letting it work itself back into the system with the bleeder open. Eventually after the system is completely full, I should be able to bleed it. This is the theory anyway... Thanks everyone.

 

At first it may take a few times since the line is filled with air.

Remember this.
The clutch system is just a pump.
If the outlet is left open is will suck back in with the pedal coming back.
If the outlet is sealed then it cannot suck back in and it will suck from the resevoir instead.

So..
tighten the bleeder screw. Then wrench it loose a TINY bit just enough that you can move it by finger BUT still tight enough that you can't tighten it more by finger.

Push the clutch in. HOLD the clutch in still.
The bleeder should have seeped out some brake fluid.
Tighten the bleeder and then pull the pedal back out.

Repeat a few time. The first few will have no resistance until it removes all the air and you will have to pull the pedal back by hand.

Eventually the pedal will stiffen up.
At this point you want to be careful opening the bleeder valve.
Have some one push the clutch in before you even open it up.
Then slowly open it. It may shoot out if you do it too quickly and you can possibly suck in air.

before you hit the floor close the valve.

Your done!

 

You can use a Mighty Vac to suck it thru if you want.

If your letting bleed thru by gravity, make sure the reservoir cap is off so that it doesn't create a vacuum. Also, thump the rubber hose a few times with your fingers to break free any air bubbles that may cling to the hose.

 

[b]did Ye, I Say, Did Ye Git Er Don Son ?

 

No I haven't gotten 'er done. Okay these are my problems. I pretty much understand the precedure, though I may have been a little loose about it(whcih may have let some air in) but my main concern is that the pedel's not comming back up! Maybe if I do it the RIGHT way, this will fix, or at least thats what I'm telling myself. Right now, the resevoir is full and it 'gravity bled' itself or whatever to the point where fluid if comming out by itself from the bleeding screw hole. Tomarrow I'll try to be more conservitive with my bleebing technic. Thanks everyone for your support.

 

When you guys replaced the master and slave cylinder, did you replace the line(s) too? Sometimes the rubber line will have a small hole in it and this will cause the system to loose pressure, resulting in the clutch pedal staying to the floor.

 

Take the bleeder screws out and put grease on the threads of them. The grease will keep air from getting in around the threads while the bleeders are loose

 

okay what the hell... still not working right. Could I be bleeding it right and the clutch master and slave cylinder NOT be the problem? Could I have damaged a return spring during some spirited driving???

 

Okay, omg I finally got it running. I figured it out, a pretty bone headed mistake on my part but not having much expierence and NO ONE thinging to let me know, I figured out that when I bolted the slave cylinder down, I didn't fit the rod into the (pressure?) plate. Thanks to everyone that tryed to help.

 

^ Really? And you didn't pop the piston out of the slave bore? Beginner's Luck!