Tmack

Ok i did a search and couldnt quite find my problems. First problem, ive checked ABSOLUTLEY EVERYTHING to correct my idle. It hunts at 1500 rpm up and down about 300 rpm. Also if i rev the engine up to any rpm and keep it there it will hunt back and forth about 300 rpm. Ive allready been pulled over because the officer thought i was revving my engine at him. The tps is adjusted properly (1 ohm at idle) and ive replaced all vacuum lines and intake gaskets. My boost guage reads proper vacuum roughly at idle, it does jump up and down with the engine hunting BUT it does sit around 15hg. Also when im cruising, if i just lightly press the throttle the engine stutters but as soon as i push a little more the car picks up and goes. Decel is fine, no popping or backfiring and accel is the same. Nice and strong.

second problem is this, i did do a search and found that the oil pressure sender in my car is notorious for giving a faulty signal BUT i just want to make sure. It doesnt seem to matter how im driving the car or at what rev but sometimes the oil will show a nice and middle of the road reading then sometimes it will shoot up right off the guage, then drop down a bit then shoot up a bit. It is totally all over the place but for the life of me i cannot figure out why my car would have high oil pressure (maybe its stressed?? lol ok that was lame). i guess high oil pressure is better then no oil pressure but it still worries me, it just started happening a cople days ago. thanks for any input.

Icemark

First problem is TPS. Either your meter is reading wrong, or you tested wrong. Try checking at the ECU

2nd problem sounds like a bad oil filter, bad sender, shorted wire for the condensor, or sticking relief valve (check in that order)

Tmack

awesome thanks. Ya i will admit that i checked the tps at the connector and not at the ecu so i will check that right now while my car is still warm. If it is set to 1 ohm at the ecu then i guess it needs replacing. I knew it had to be the tps becuase why else would the car react the way it does.

Where is the relief valve? If it is electrical then thats ok i wont stress but if its something mechanical then im worried. the oil filter is about 1 week old so maybe that is a problem, it is a mazda filter (its nice having best friend who work for mazda parts dept. lol) but anything is possible.

Tmack

awesome thanks. Ya i will admit that i checked the tps at the connector and not at the ecu so i will check that right now while my car is still warm. If it is set to 1 ohm at the ecu then i guess it needs replacing. I knew it had to be the tps becuase why else would the car react the way it does. On another notem in the morning when i fire up the car it runs at cold start rpm for about 10 seconds then just dies, ive been told thats a tps issue but i checked it a thousand times and its set up right...at the connector though. i guess thats a tps issue as well?


Where is the relief valve? If it is electrical then thats ok i wont stress but if its something mechanical then im worried. the oil filter is about 1 week old so maybe that is a problem, it is a mazda filter (its nice having best friend who work for mazda parts dept. lol) but anything is possible.

Thanks for all your help, karma is on your side.

LexTalionis502

Sounds like a clogged fuel filter. That is exactly how I've seen a lot of cars and trucks act when they have an old fuel filter (including my own). When was the last time it was changed and how many miles would you say have been driven on it?

Icemark

the relief valve is under cover (well above) of the oil pan

Check the oil pressure with a aftermarket gauge first. No sense pulling off your oil pan, without first making sure that it is not a sender or gauge or wiring issue.

Tmack

woops i just noticed the double post. allright thanks for all the info!

Tmack

allright first off again thanks to icemark for all your help. my tps is adjusted perfectly and the car runs beautifully now except it idles rock solid at 2000rpm lol. I checked the ohms on my varible resistor and i think its shot as it wasnt giving any reading, so im assuming its giving a rich reading to the ecu hence the high idle speed. The bac valve screw is in all the way and the lowest i could get with that adjustment is the 2000rpm idle speed. Im going to try and screw around with my throttle plate settings a bit and see if that helps. any thoughts??

Icemark

yep, that is the next step. I would also check for vac leaks (although at 2000 rpm it would be a pretty big vac leak)

Tmack

definately no vacuum leaks as ive replaced absolutely everything that would see vacuum. When i remove the connector on the bac valve nothing happens so im going to give it a shot of 12 volts and see if it clicks, but im betting it doesnt. I must say, from the when i first got this car a month ago till now its a completely different car, im learning tons about rotaries.

Icemark

They are pretty simple once you learn the basics to look for.

Yep the next step would be to check the $1000 **** (throttle body idle adjustment)- the dealer mechanics used to call it the $1000 **** because that is how much a new throttle body cost back in the day, because they were inept at adjusting it.