HELP!!! ACT clutch
#1
Rotary Father
Thread Starter
HELP!!! ACT clutch
OK, I put in my ACT clutch, PP and LWflywheel and it doesn't work. The slave cylinder isn't pushing far enough to disengage the clutch from the flywheel. Looks like it needs to push like 1/4 - 1/3 inch farther. With the car up on the lift if you start it in 1st with the pedal down the wheels turn and when you let the pedal up they REALLY turn so the clutch is working most of the way but not being disengaged fully. What do you think? Is my slave bad? Do I NEED braided line? WTF????
Teach me O' Great Ones.
I feel like I'm taking crazy pills!
Teach me O' Great Ones.
I feel like I'm taking crazy pills!
#2
Rotary Father
Thread Starter
OK, I know it's only been 40 minutes and everyone is at work or getting lunch, but Dude....if I can't get this thing fixed soon I'll have to drive my......*gasp* '84 S15 JIMMY! It's not even regestered....I'll have tyo go to the DMV this afternoon and get plates just because my car is down I want my baby back!
Fill me in when you can. Thanks guys!
Fill me in when you can. Thanks guys!
#3
have you adjusted the rod inside the car for the master cyclinder. i just got my act and i have the braided line. i did not have any problems with pedal travel. try the rod adjustment first.
#5
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
As bad as I hate to say it, you *may* wind having to take that bad boy back out. When installing a new clutch, ALWAYS lube the spline shaft and pilot bearing up really well. IF not, the clutch can bind up on the spline shaft adn not move freely. This would mean that when the pressure plate clamps down on it, it gets pushed against the flywheel and made to turn, as normal. When released though, it wouldnt have the full ability to slide back OFF the flywheel, keeping it rubbing against it, keeping the tranny loaded a bit at all times, and making it a bitch to shift in and out of gear.
Ive been there and done this, and I learned the hard way. ITs possible, if you got a really stiff upgraded clutch/PP, you might need to consider a new master cylinder and slave cylinder. Upgraded stiff components can make the old stock hydraulics weaker and fail, so you might be seeig that as well. I hope for your sake it is the case. There's really not a good way to check other than process of elimination.
Good luck!
Ive been there and done this, and I learned the hard way. ITs possible, if you got a really stiff upgraded clutch/PP, you might need to consider a new master cylinder and slave cylinder. Upgraded stiff components can make the old stock hydraulics weaker and fail, so you might be seeig that as well. I hope for your sake it is the case. There's really not a good way to check other than process of elimination.
Good luck!
#6
Rotary Father
Thread Starter
I just went and got a new master cylinder, I figure the internal seal might be leaking fluid around itself....sorta like oil leaking past a piston ring in a piston engine. This would explain why there isn't enough pressure to push the clutch out. And yeah I dropped that thang out twice to make sure it is all lined up perfectly and lubed real nice. I also replaced the piolot bearing and seal and the throwout bearing too. Dayum, I hope the mastercylinder does the trick. More ideas...........anyone
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#8
Rotary Father
Thread Starter
yeah the rod is adjusted out, I'm putting the Mcylinder in in the morning....
Right and so in teh meantime I got tags for my Jimmy...well it was doing fine for about 30 minutes then just died on me all of a sudden! Nothing I did would get that POS started again. I swear, these have been teh worst 2 days ever with me and my vehicles I want my **** back on teh road!
Right and so in teh meantime I got tags for my Jimmy...well it was doing fine for about 30 minutes then just died on me all of a sudden! Nothing I did would get that POS started again. I swear, these have been teh worst 2 days ever with me and my vehicles I want my **** back on teh road!
#9
I agree with hypntyz7. but go ahead and replace the 2 cylinders anyway.
OT, I once had to drive a '85 S10 Blazer, god DAMN, that was such a ******* POS !!
2.8V6 carb, the damn thing needed to be cranked 3-4 times just to get it started and was .s.l.o.w. as **** !
OT, I once had to drive a '85 S10 Blazer, god DAMN, that was such a ******* POS !!
2.8V6 carb, the damn thing needed to be cranked 3-4 times just to get it started and was .s.l.o.w. as **** !
#10
Rotary Father
Thread Starter
replaced teh cylinders....a little better, but still not working Taking it to "The Sports Car Clinic" in town. The owner and mechanic have 7's they said they know they can fix it. I think i finally found a local shop that knows about the rotary! I mean check this **** out, the guys at the dealer told me it's because the auto's and 5's had different engins! And that they are amazed i ever got a 5'speed to ever work at all with an automatic engine! WTF and he's trained by mazda or some ****! **** a bunch of dealer mechanics. I hope these dudes at the clinic don't try to butt rape my wallet.
And yes I am hating life in my S15 right now...it is slow as ***** and already broke down on my ***. I got it running again though...it was the ignition modulater or some ****. Anyway.
Any more ideas?
And yes I am hating life in my S15 right now...it is slow as ***** and already broke down on my ***. I got it running again though...it was the ignition modulater or some ****. Anyway.
Any more ideas?
#12
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marion, AR 72364
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I hate to mention the obvious, but are you sure you installed the clutch disc correctly? There is a front (engine side) and a rear face to it.
Most of the clutch discs I have seen for the rex are impossible to install backwards, but it may be a possibility on your particular disc.
Most of the clutch discs I have seen for the rex are impossible to install backwards, but it may be a possibility on your particular disc.
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The1Sun
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09-18-15 07:13 PM