kel

Hello everyone,

I sprung a leak of coolant that was running on my right foot, so I removed the dash and found that one of the inlet pipes to the heater core had been tightened too much and buckled making coolant squirt through the hole in the firewall.

So, I made a tool and 'rounded-out' the inlet and outlet, then replaced everything. I refilled the coolant, and now there is absolutely no heat coming through.

I still had enough off the dash assembly that I could reach the valve and confirm that it open, but not an ounce of heat.

Anyone have an idea what I need to do?

thanks!

- kel -

gerald m

If the engine is running up to temp properly then you probably have an air lock in the heater system . you might be able to massage the upper rad hose and work the air out . Not sure but there might be a bleeder somewhere close to the firewall to open and let the air out . sometimes air in the system can be a real bitch, just be persistent and you should have success . you might need to loosen the upper heater hose and bleed the air out that way. just be careful you don't scald your self when doing any of this .. someone else might have some better options that you can try .

kel

thanks, that makes sense. I have to drain the coolant again today for an ignition issue, so I'll see about the bleeding idea when it goes back together.

I appreciate your input!

- k -

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

After the engine warmed up, did you feel the inlet pipe inside the car going to the heater? Is it warm also? You confirmed the valve open, but did you confirm it actually works? Maybe it looks open and is stuck?

clokker

iTrader: (2)

1. When you refill the system make sure the heat is set to full HOT. Up to 11, if possible.
(The fan doesn't matter)

2. I've had excellent results jacking up the front of the car for the refill sequence, which makes the radiator fill the highest point in the loop, at least on a NA.
Much as people bitch, I've never found the FC at all difficult to bleed.

3. It's underrated how important the recovery loop is to the system. That is not an "overflow" tank per se, it's what the system breathes into. Make sure the hose from the radiator fill nipple to the tank is in good shape and seals on the fittings. This hose sees vacuum as well as pressure. If it's working properly, this tank is where the loop will push the remaining air from the rest of the system.

kel

Those are some good suggestions. I had the car up on the stands for other work, and filled it with the front pretty high. Also, while I had the UIM off, I rigged a way to pour coolant directly into the heater core.
I'm sure the valve is okay, because the coolant poured all the way through and out the bottom of the radiator.

Now that's it back together, i got it warmed up and confirmed that both the inlet and outlet to the heater core are hot. Also, reached up under the dash above the throttle pedal, and found pipes that are plenty hot

Still now heat out of the vent, though.

- k -

gerald m

If the heater worked before you fixed the hose and you are positive that the water is circulating through the heater core sounds like the heater doors aren't working did you happen to pull off a control cable or vacuum hose when working on the heater when you were fixing the heater pipe ? Me thinks you must have knocked something off when preforming the repair .

kel

that makes sense. not sure what it could've been, but I guess the dash comes out again



Thanks for your thoughts


- k -

gerald m

Don't know what else to tell you . that is the only thing left for the heater to preform proper .

kel

well...you could tell me you'd love to come over and take the dash out FOR me.... ;-)

- k -

clokker

iTrader: (2)

The dash isn't that bad, I can help if you'd like.

kel

yeah, could be worse; done it twice, but it is a royal P in the A.

Might take you up on your offer come the next (relatively) warm weekend; an extra pair of hands would certainly make it quicker.

- k -

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Sure, let me know.