CHRA stuck, will not rotate in exhaust housing.
09-12-15, 08:16 PM
#1
Derwin
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CHRA stuck, will not rotate in exhaust housing.
I figure some of you may have run into a similar situation.
Need to rotate the CHRA to have the drain in the proper position.
Garret unit with 6 bolt setup.
So far have tried :
-PB Blaster
-Diesel soak
-ATF soak
-Heated joint with propane.
It just won't budge any help/ideas appreciated.
Need to rotate the CHRA to have the drain in the proper position.
Garret unit with 6 bolt setup.
So far have tried :
-PB Blaster
-Diesel soak
-ATF soak
-Heated joint with propane.
It just won't budge any help/ideas appreciated.
09-12-15, 08:51 PM
#2
not sure if you are trying to rotate while its pressed in or not, first try to remove it from the housing, then place at desired clocking, then tighten clamps to press it back in. sometimes the clamp bolts line up so as you unbolt the housing, the bolts push the chra off
09-12-15, 09:07 PM
#3
Derwin
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not sure if you are trying to rotate while its pressed in or not, first try to remove it from the housing, then place at desired clocking, then tighten clamps to press it back in. sometimes the clamp bolts line up so as you unbolt the housing, the bolts push the chra off
With the Garrett CHRA is there are only two bolts that unbolt glat being the water fittings.
Last edited by dradon03; 09-12-15 at 09:10 PM.
09-14-15, 09:10 AM
#6
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i've never really been able to get a chra to rotate, i have to pop it out, re-oreient it in the air and put it back.
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09-17-15, 09:54 PM
#8
Derwin
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The solution for me was heat and the mallet with some protection. Protection in the form of a feeler gauge.
Basically, I used the feeler gauge to see the thickness with the housing on and hitting it in an x pattern measured throughout the process without letting it get to half to tolerance from square.
It may have taken me longer but when it came apart there was no damage, the culprit was a spec of rust on the interior flange that the CHRA and exhaust houaing meet.
All better now thank you for the responses hope this can help anyone in the future.
09-18-15, 05:57 AM
#9
was succesful at the end. I know the vibration is sometimes needed to break the rust bond just didn't feel right.
The solution for me was heat and the mallet with some protection. Protection in the form of a feeler gauge.
Basically, i used the feeler gauge to see the thickness with the housing on and hitting it in an x pattern measured throughout the process without letting it get to half to tolerance from square.
It may have taken me longer but when it came apart there was no damage, the culprit was a spec of rust on the interior flange that the chra and exhaust houaing meet.
All better now thank you for the responses hope this can help anyone in the future.
The solution for me was heat and the mallet with some protection. Protection in the form of a feeler gauge.
Basically, i used the feeler gauge to see the thickness with the housing on and hitting it in an x pattern measured throughout the process without letting it get to half to tolerance from square.
It may have taken me longer but when it came apart there was no damage, the culprit was a spec of rust on the interior flange that the chra and exhaust houaing meet.
All better now thank you for the responses hope this can help anyone in the future.