heres the problem, i just got a new battery the other day and went to install it. i thought i had the battery in right but when i touched the negetive terminal to the battery, a few big sparks bursted off. i obviously came to the conclution that i put the terminals on wrong, and with in seconds i removed both terminals from the battery, as soon as i reconnected the battery the headlights poped up and now will not go down. i checked both fuse boxes and they all are good, also wen i try to manually crank the headlights down they will automatically go down and go right back up...?WTF. the lights still come on wen i turn the switch inside neer the cluster. its as if the switch inside no longer has power to move the lights up and down. please any help suggestions
ive been looking around in old forums and i am having no luck finding anything that has yet to help.

 

when you hooked up the battery backwards/wrong you may have smoked the switch or the relays or the motors. You would want to check all of them.

 

i think the motors are fine. im thinking its either a switch or a relay. what does the relay look like/where?

 

i just did that on my ford taurus SHO im try to sell and it fried the starter. starters are much cheaper than headlight switches, good luck

 

i just checked the switch in the cluster area. im think it might be the switch...here what i did, first i diconected the battery. then i cranked both the headlight down manually then i unplugged the switches near the cluster and plugged the battery back in, the lights stayed down, then i plug the swtch in and reconnected the battery and as soon as i did that the lights went right back up.. so do you think it might be the switch or could it still be somtheing else? i can call my buddy up and borrow his old spare switch that i let him have..
let me know if you have any other input.

 

alright i just tried the new switch and it did not do the trick, can any one tell me were or what i might have shorted out?

 

Is the retractor switch that is located just above the headlight switch in the UP or Down position when your doing this?

I posted jpgs of the wiring schematic for the retractors for a series four at this site..https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...t=dimmer+relay

As you can see, it's easy to pull the plug off either headlight retractor assy and put a meter on either the UP or Down wire and determine what is going on.

Get on the RY wire and see if you have 12v when the switch is to DOWN.....then put the switch to UP and that 12v should go away and then appear on the RL wire. RL being red with a blue stripe and the RY color is red and............... fill in the blank.

These pictures come right out of the factory service manual along with instructions on trouble shooting the problem. My methodology is a touch different......better in fact. I don't care for trouble shooting out of FI manuals. No fun in that whatsoever.

 

the same 2 wires are hot when i move the switch up or down. so the connection that tells the lights to go down is not being recieved to the headlight motors. is there a relay or sumptin near the right headlight that controls the headlight movement? im runnin an 1989 gtu if that helps.

 

There are two relays at the front of the engine bay you can trouble shoot them by following the procedures in the FSM. Check here: http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/2ndgen/manu...cal_system.pdf

This will tell you if your relays are good.

 

Are you saying BOTH wires have 12v at the same time no matter if theswitch is to UP or Down?

If you only have 12v on one wire at a time when the switch is to the correct position for that wire, then the problem lies in the retractor motor side. Or the retractor switch/**** is in the OPEN position all the time. The retractor **** being the **** just above the light switch.

If you have power on just one wire at a time, then put your meters leads on the retractor side of the harness plug. Put one lead on the where the Black wire of the harness would mate and the other on where the RY wire would mate. Now turn the manual retractor **** on the bottom thru its travel. Continuity should come and go as the motor is moved thru its full travel. Or put another way, continuity should be there thru half of the full cycle of the headlights from full down to full up.

Then do the same with the RL wire and black wire. Same result. Continuity thru half the full up/down cycle

 

the retractor switchs are not getting power. were do i look to fix this. could this be because of a f'd up relay?

 

i am confused about wich relay is for the headlights?