Quick guys I need to know whats up..Im scared to death that I blew my new engine!!!

Its Only the rear header runner to the rear rotor. Im wondering if this caused a thermal break down of my housings exc. I drove it like this for 2 hours I think. Rear header glowing in the dark. Turned off and stoped glowing after 1 minute.

What can cause this especially in my rear rotor only ?

 

Strange... Both mine glow.

The header glowing is very common. (expected?)

Did the rear one really glow like super bright or was it just "noticable" like in a dark area? Mine is usually just barely noticable, but I have never pulled over after a high speed or heavy throttle run and popped the hood looking for glowing. Just after having been on back roads for a bit before looking to see how hot they were.

 

You may have some kind of ignition problem.Check your plugs and wires and make sure they are properly installed.Make sure your wires don't contact each other.Check to see if your ignitors and coils are working properly.Also check to see if your plug wires show any signs of wear,like cracks or brittleness.

Good Luck

 

COmon guys my car doesent sound right either. Like its running on 1 rotor.

How can this be normal Jimmy ? The rear rotor glows bright red in the dark and the front rotor I cant even see ... HOw can that be normal. ONe glows , the other doesent. You must have a turbo because they should be a little hotter than N/A. Mine are not sopose to glow whatso ever.

 

AHHH my Wires are new and my plugs are NEWER!!!

Checked my old spark plugs and both leadings are the same color and just the same. No sings of one not firing.

 

Pluss my tack is connected to the front coils so I think that if it was broke then my tack wouldnt work.

 

I don't have a damn turbo... Also, N/A's run much hotter exhaust temps than turbos.

I do think it very odd that only one glows. Possibly a clogged injector? Hotter = Leaner.

 

The front coil will not giev you a great tach signal, as the ECU can advance or retard the firing.

You much better off using the trailing coils for a tach signal. They don't get advanced.

 

Could this have killed my rear rotor?

Wich injector do you think ?

 

Probably <cringe here> your primary on that rotor. If that is indeed the problem...

 

No No checking the primary connector is no problem it will only take me 20 minutes to disasemble and reasemble everything.

Now since you figured it out how can I test the injectors with my multi meter ???

 

so is my rear rotor permantly damaged from this ? HOw long can I run that lean ?

 

impedence wont show a clogged injector. if you have a coil burnt out in that injector you'll get an open circuit or super low resistence.

You need some way of flow testing the sucker to see if its working right. OR: try swapping it with the secondary on that rotor and see if anything changes.

Does this happen when just driving around town or only on the freeway? Be nice to it untill you get it figured out. There's no way of knowing how long it'll hold out before giving you a nice preignition knock and take out the apex seal. (thats what you have to worry about really) The rotor running hot will potentially cause a knock.

 

Hm yeah I didnt know it was that hot though So I reved to 8500 3 times just before I found out...It idles pretty.

 

Could be a bad fuel injector like said above, or perhaps (however unlikely) that the coolant (and oil? havent bothered to check the oil flow path) is getting heat sinked from the front, causing the rear to run hotter *shrug*

 

How can I tell if thiers oil going to the rear ?

 

Then wouldnt that mean my water temp gauge should rise ??? because it doesent. And what do you mean heat sinked from the front?

 

Not necessarily. I doubt its the problem, just a possibility. The coolant can only absorb so much heat, and it takes heat from the front and then the rear. One of the myths about why the rear rotors are more common to blow first, have lower compression after use etc.

 

Any engine, stock or modded, turbo or not, can make the exhaust glow bright enough to see in the dark after only 10-15sec of full load. That's quite normal.

You seem to have started a new thread with a new problem on your car on a daily basis since you got it started! I really think you should put it on a dyno so that actual power and A/F ratios can be ascertained. This is invaluable for figuring out probs of this sort. At least take it to a local rotary workshop if one's handy.