anewconvert

iTrader: (1)

I have done some searching, but most of the info applies to S4's, not S5's.

I am getting a 6 port RB header and presilencer in the mail int he next few days, and will want to get it installed relatively soon. Im curious if there are any considerations I need to take before getting under the car to install the header. Any block off plates I will need? Stuff that will no longer function that I am going to need to remove or modify?

For reference this is a 91 N/A with a streetported/aux bridge motor.

BC

Black91n/a

One consideration would be to make sure it's on jack stands and is good and stable.

There's nothing you need to block off.

SpooledupRacing

I was curious on the same thing, on an s4 n/a what about possibility of breaking the manifold studs etc..

Dave

riverzendz

That is a possibility. Take the necessary precautions before attempting to remove the manifold.

spot_skater

Would include...soaking bolts/studs in some PBlaster for as long as you can, to help ensure everything will break free, instead of apart.

If they still won't budge, bust out a torch to get things nice and hot, then go to town.

James

anewconvert

iTrader: (1)

I knew someone would say that.


It will be on ramps and chaulks behind the rear wheels and the parking brake set. I just dont trust jack stands when I am going to be yanking on 15 yr old exhaust manifold bolts.


BC

Black91n/a

Ramps can fall over too, but that sounds like a safe arrangement. I can't really drive my car up on the ramps we've got at home, they're too steep. I use large jack stands with nice wide bases and usually have some backups under the sills. Jack stands also give a more stable car to work on, as there's no tire and suspension to deflect.

I plug my split air pipe hose with a shoulder bolt and hose clamp, but you can probably leave it open too, I really don't think it matters other than for where the extra air gets vented.

One thing you'll want to do is use jam nuts on all the bolts and/or studs near the engine. I had a problem with my manifold to downpipe nuts coming off on one side all the time causing a slight exhaust leak. Double nutting them is the only thing that slows it down. I still had one come off on me with a jam nut, but only one in 2+ years, compared to one every month or two before. Next time I'll get some prevailing torque locknuts (all metal).

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

I use jackstands or ramps and still leave a jack under the car too just in case.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

I just take the nuts off before I jack up the car, but I'm not sure if its possible to reach the bottom 2 nuts with the stock manifold. Also, at the very least get new lock washer for all of the exhaust bolts. They do like to back out. Also, soak all of the bolts in PB blaster. It takes a shitload of effort to break the stock studs. It is more likely that they will come out before they break. When tightening, I guess you can use a torque wrench, but I just tighten then down good and hard using a standard socket wrench.

anewconvert

iTrader: (1)

Cool, thnks guys. Anyone know off hand what the torque spec is on the manifold bolts? I had a GTP with a chronic exhaust leak that I would like to not reproduce this time.


BC