A/c issue
07-01-10, 01:20 PM
#1
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A/c issue
Ever since I bought this car last year the air conditioning hasnt worked. If i turn it on it will blow just fine, just not cold SO i'm wondering..... Do i need a refrigerant refill? I have a brand new can of r134a but i'm worried that i might mess something up because i'm not sure if it was drained of r12.
88 gxl n/a stock besides exhaust and oil cooler lines, any advice will be helpful
88 gxl n/a stock besides exhaust and oil cooler lines, any advice will be helpful
07-01-10, 01:27 PM
#2
Does the compressor turn on when you turn on the AC?
There's a lot of possibilities here. Just dumping some R134 in there isn't the best solution.
Do you have a set of A/C gauges you can use? The compressor won't turn on if there's no refrigerent in the system as a safety.
You need adaptor fittings, a new drier, ester oil, and a system flush if you plan to convert to R134 the proper way.
However, I just made the change to freeze12 myself, and am very satisfied.
There's a lot of possibilities here. Just dumping some R134 in there isn't the best solution.
Do you have a set of A/C gauges you can use? The compressor won't turn on if there's no refrigerent in the system as a safety.
You need adaptor fittings, a new drier, ester oil, and a system flush if you plan to convert to R134 the proper way.
However, I just made the change to freeze12 myself, and am very satisfied.
07-01-10, 01:30 PM
#3
Also, if it's out of freon, there's a leak somewhere. It would be best to identify the point it's leaking first before re-filling the system. While some sort of dye certainly helps, you can also identify leaks by looked for gummy/wet spots on the hoses and connections.
Also, you could have anything from bad switches, to a bad compressor, etc...
So yeah, the first question, does the compressor kick on when the A/C switch on?
Also, you could have anything from bad switches, to a bad compressor, etc...
So yeah, the first question, does the compressor kick on when the A/C switch on?
07-01-10, 06:30 PM
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Okay..... Car was idling fine I think my idle may be set a little too low though 600-700, it usually sits above that first line on the tach.
I turned the a/c on and walked over to the engine bay, engine started bumping hard and shaking around. I depressed the idle screw a bit to bring the rpm back up and left it. My car stalled out. I don't know which belt runs the compressor but from what I can see all my belts are spinning whether the a/c is running or not.
Help? Is the a/c too rough on my engine? I don't know what kind of compression I'm making to be honest
I turned the a/c on and walked over to the engine bay, engine started bumping hard and shaking around. I depressed the idle screw a bit to bring the rpm back up and left it. My car stalled out. I don't know which belt runs the compressor but from what I can see all my belts are spinning whether the a/c is running or not.
Help? Is the a/c too rough on my engine? I don't know what kind of compression I'm making to be honest
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07-03-10, 12:05 AM
#14
90% chance that you have a leak somewhere and all R12 is long gone, not surprising on a car thats 22 years old.
You probably gotta go thru what I've been thru, took me couple of days (break it up to about couple hours each day) to finally figure it out how to fix it.(following jackhild59's advise, thx again man
)
My condenser has a leak (took a while to find it)
a quote from my local shop : to replace the condenser with a USED one, Fix and recharge with r134a gonna cost at least 400 bux. they not gonna even flush the compressor. cuz it takes a long time, and not replacing anything else. and Why 400? cuz I TOLD HIM where the leak is, if they have to find the leak, it would probably cost another 50 more.
I can probably do it for u, but honestly it will be long and it will be expensive (the tools alone cost me couple hundred and ... I have to eat too
)
if you really want to get it fix, be prepared to spend more than 500 (and lots of waiting)
before anything, you might want to find out if u have a leak, u will need a set of gauge to check it.
You probably gotta go thru what I've been thru, took me couple of days (break it up to about couple hours each day) to finally figure it out how to fix it.(following jackhild59's advise, thx again man
)My condenser has a leak (took a while to find it)
a quote from my local shop : to replace the condenser with a USED one, Fix and recharge with r134a gonna cost at least 400 bux. they not gonna even flush the compressor. cuz it takes a long time, and not replacing anything else. and Why 400? cuz I TOLD HIM where the leak is, if they have to find the leak, it would probably cost another 50 more.
I can probably do it for u, but honestly it will be long and it will be expensive (the tools alone cost me couple hundred and ... I have to eat too
)if you really want to get it fix, be prepared to spend more than 500 (and lots of waiting)
before anything, you might want to find out if u have a leak, u will need a set of gauge to check it.
07-03-10, 12:46 AM
#16
500 bux is just a "rough" estimate.
Cuz honestly I spent hmm about 200 something bux in parts (a used Condenser, a brand new drier, some used A/C line, brand new stock o-rings, some Freeze 12 pack, 2 bottles of R134a to find leak, Ester oil)
Not including tools of course, but Im keeping it for life so.
if u're luck and its just some worn out o-rings then all u need is new o-rings, Compressor flush and a new Drier + some labor.
Its not that hot now, Its like 60-70s these couple of days.
Unless you have another car to drive, just wait till Sunday its gonna hit the 90s, without A/C the 7 gonna bake you alive.
Cuz honestly I spent hmm about 200 something bux in parts (a used Condenser, a brand new drier, some used A/C line, brand new stock o-rings, some Freeze 12 pack, 2 bottles of R134a to find leak, Ester oil)
Not including tools of course, but Im keeping it for life so.
if u're luck and its just some worn out o-rings then all u need is new o-rings, Compressor flush and a new Drier + some labor.
Its not that hot now, Its like 60-70s these couple of days.
Unless you have another car to drive, just wait till Sunday its gonna hit the 90s, without A/C the 7 gonna bake you alive.
07-03-10, 10:25 AM
#17
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Maybe i'll go check out midas because they have some kind of "free" a/c check, not sure if theyre still doing it though.
These last few days have been beautiful though...
What would cause my car to stall out when turning the a/c on? My friend says that it could be some kind of relay failure thats supposed to kick the idle up or something. I'm thinking vaccum leak?
My idle sits slightly above that first line between 1k and 0 rpm. I also get a little blip down in the idle every few seconds
These last few days have been beautiful though...
What would cause my car to stall out when turning the a/c on? My friend says that it could be some kind of relay failure thats supposed to kick the idle up or something. I'm thinking vaccum leak?
My idle sits slightly above that first line between 1k and 0 rpm. I also get a little blip down in the idle every few seconds
07-03-10, 01:02 PM
#18
The BAC valve is designed to compensate the load placed upon the engine when things such as the A/C is turned on to help maintain a decent idle. There is a pin at the ECU which recognizes when the A/C is turned on and signals the BAC to adjust the idle accordingly. Your BAC might be sticking, or defective, or the ECU might not be reading the turning on of the A/C properly, or the idle is too low to begin with which could cause this problem.
07-03-10, 03:44 PM
#19
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How do I increase idle? Where exactly is the idle screw?
I do believe my idle is set too low OR I have a vaccum leak.
My bac isn't properally working, I'm already aware of this. Whenever I startup on a cold engine it will shoot up to 3k and then drop down and die UNLESS I tap the gas. If I tap the gas it will go back to 1.5k until warm(as usual)
I do believe my idle is set too low OR I have a vaccum leak.
My bac isn't properally working, I'm already aware of this. Whenever I startup on a cold engine it will shoot up to 3k and then drop down and die UNLESS I tap the gas. If I tap the gas it will go back to 1.5k until warm(as usual)
07-03-10, 04:11 PM
#20
the idle screw is at the top of the intake manifold.
if your BAC is not working it doesn't matter how u adjust the screw, the idle still gonna suck/stall.
Shoot up to 3K is normal, its part of the accelerate warm up process. but if dies 10 seconds later without tapping the gas you have a problem.
As for the A/C, just get a ball point pen and push the Low pressure valve pin to see if any freeon comes out. when u do it, wear eye protection and keep ur face away from it.
if your BAC is not working it doesn't matter how u adjust the screw, the idle still gonna suck/stall.
Shoot up to 3K is normal, its part of the accelerate warm up process. but if dies 10 seconds later without tapping the gas you have a problem.
As for the A/C, just get a ball point pen and push the Low pressure valve pin to see if any freeon comes out. when u do it, wear eye protection and keep ur face away from it.
07-03-10, 05:39 PM
#21
How do I increase idle? Where exactly is the idle screw?
I do believe my idle is set too low OR I have a vaccum leak.
My bac isn't properally working, I'm already aware of this. Whenever I startup on a cold engine it will shoot up to 3k and then drop down and die UNLESS I tap the gas. If I tap the gas it will go back to 1.5k until warm(as usual)
I do believe my idle is set too low OR I have a vaccum leak.
My bac isn't properally working, I'm already aware of this. Whenever I startup on a cold engine it will shoot up to 3k and then drop down and die UNLESS I tap the gas. If I tap the gas it will go back to 1.5k until warm(as usual)
I would try setting the idle when the car is fully warmed and then disconnect the BAC and then go through the proper procedure as stated in the service manual with respect to setting the idle except the jumpering of the initial set coupler which would be a moot point since the BAC plug would be disconnected. Procedure is found in the link below.
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...SYSTEMS_NA.pdf
07-04-10, 12:00 AM
#24
One method of checking the BAC is to have the car running and have someone turn the headlights on and also press on the brakes at the same time and then disconnect the plug to the BAC and look for any change in the engine RPM. If the RPM drops "after" the plug is removed then the BAC is at least working to some extent. If replugging the connector back on with the lights on and brake pedal depressed and the RPM climbs some then this again indicates the BAC is working to some degree.
I would try setting the idle when the car is fully warmed and then disconnect the BAC and then go through the proper procedure as stated in the service manual with respect to setting the idle except the jumpering of the initial set coupler which would be a moot point since the BAC plug would be disconnected. Procedure is found in the link below.
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...SYSTEMS_NA.pdf
I would try setting the idle when the car is fully warmed and then disconnect the BAC and then go through the proper procedure as stated in the service manual with respect to setting the idle except the jumpering of the initial set coupler which would be a moot point since the BAC plug would be disconnected. Procedure is found in the link below.
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...SYSTEMS_NA.pdf
07-04-10, 02:08 PM
#25
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I may be a noob, but I'm not that stupid.
I'll check out if removing the BAC changes my idle at all.
Have a happy 4th of july to all.