Any suggestions on the short line on the motor with tricky double nuts, can't seem to get them off.
I haven't tried the rear line yet, I'm dreading that one..

and I allready read the writeup at rotary resurection, I need more options. (and it didn't say how to remove the rear line!)

 

I always end up pulling the short line off at the oil cooler, then bending the solid part of the line so it clears the studs to the PS rack (if its not on) and rotating it out like that. Ive only taked an oil cooler off one car that let me loosen the fittings from the front cover

-Jacob

 

yes, the short line is a little bit tough to remove.

you need two wrenches. one for the smaller nut that's closer to engine (you don't want that one to turn) and the bigger wrench for the other nut (that's the one you wanna work on).

it's a tight space so you may want to use a wrench that's slightly bigger than that big nut, so that the wobble gives a little bit more space to work with. I don't recall the size you need, maybe 2 1/16 inch, but I could be wrong. Look for posts by icemark about this or ask him via pm (he knows the sizes I believe).

Hugues -

 

SAE nut's on a jap car!? Who the hell thought of that!?

*grumblegrumble stupid sae*

 

oh, btw, I don't actually need to remove the oil cooler, I just need to remove the lines so I can get the engine out.

This is the only thing still connected to the engine.

 

actually its in MM, (I thought 24MM off the top of my head) its just that most shops and stores in the states don't have MM wenches that big.

 

I think its a 23 MM for the fitting on the cover. I bought one at sears and did a Monster Garage thing to it with a grinder. Its a bit thinner now...

 

lol! Great idea!
Unfortunately, I only have sockets that size, I tried using vice grips but only succeeded in rounding off a courner, tight little bastard. Any other suggestions?

 

If I remember correctly, when the mm starts getting that big all the sae and the metric tools seems to mesh extremely well.

 

I would go to sears and get a nice big *** wrench to use on that.

 

I had the same problem and I found a terrific way of handling it.

Whatever the two wrench sizes are, get them. I may have used an adjustable wrench for the bigger one but I can't remember exactly.

Anyway, the trick I did was to get a very hefty zip-tie and, after placing the wrench on the left nut and as close to the engine as possible, zip-tying it to the PS/AC bracket. Then get a cheater bar to go around your other wrench on the right nut and crack that sucker.

I was very proud of myself after making that one work. I also undid some other nut, maybe one of my starter nuts, underneath the car by using my jack to push on the wrench. That was pretty cool too.

So now you can all go ahead and make your left and right nut jokes..

 

great idea!

Now what about the rear nut? (no not a joke) How should I go about removing that one?

 

drop the engine underpanel. Its real easy to get the rear engine one from underneith.

 

hmm, seem's it isn't as easy as you say... I have a cross brace going across the area under where I need to reach, I think only convertibles have this. Neverthless getting it from underneath looks pretty hard.

I was finally able to get the front nut off, and I think I broke my finger (not kidding).

I think I'm going to find a 21mm or 15/16" socket and give the rear nut a try again tomorrow.

 

23mm for the rear banjo bolt, not 21.

I bought a set for wrenches for the front cover lines, and ground down the smaller one to fit the adapter. I also usually loctite those back in when I screw tham back in; it saves have to double wrench again in the future (and in theory, should prevent galvanic corrosion of the threads of the aluminum front cover).

 

yes, thank you, I meant 23, I knew it was between a couple of those even numbers....

How does using locktite prevent having to double wrench again? I think I'm missing something here...