Having trouble getting motor started after rebuild
Having trouble getting motor started after rebuild
Hey there everybody I have a naturally aspirated 89 FC Rx7 I picked the car up a little while ago and I’ve been doing everything I can to restore it but about a month or two in the coolant seals decided to blow and unbeknownst to me the coolant seal grooves on the front iron decided to break in four or five places so I pulled the motor pulled everything apart and replaced everything that was broken and that I could replace such as certain seals and springs I lubed and oiled everything during reassembly and put the motor back in the car there were copious amounts of connectors disconnected when I bought the car but it still ran decently at that so as I was putting everything back in and back together I reconnected things where they belong and replaced 99% of the old rock hard vacuum lines with new stuff but I’m having a major issue getting the car started it cranks no problem and I hear good compression on every face of each rotor I know that I’m getting good spark because the plugs have not been used very much and I’ve cleaned them quite a bit and my coil packs work just fine I’ve never had an issue with that the car is sucking in enough air no problem and the idle was decent when the car blew up and as far as I knew I had fuel I can hear the fuel pump priming and I’ve pulled the fuel system apart multiple times to see what the issue is all four injectors have been cleaned immensely and all four injectors open And clothes just fine when I pull everything apart there is fresh premixed fuel in all of the lines and no lines are getting pinched yet when I turn the car on I have to feather the gas pretty good to get it to catch and when I do I have to keep the car at 1600 to 3000 RPM to keep it alive because it’s soon as the car goes anywhere between 1300 to 1000 RPMs the car dies it will not keep itself alive basically unless I’m the one giving it gas it’s almost as if there’s a fuel cut happening somewhere but I cannot for the life of me figure out where it is I am at a complete loss and could really use some help or pointers with this I do have the airbox hose disconnected from the throttle body but disconnected or connected it is still having the same issue i know I might not have explain this right but if anybody could step in I would greatly appreciate it
Agreed with Kyle. I'm sure you're stressed right now, but it's difficult to interpret what you're saying when it's one long unbroken sentence like that.
From what I'm gathering it starts, you just need to keep your foot on the pedal for it to run. The first thing I would do is just let it run for a bit and see if it improves. Maybe have a friend feather the gas while you fill it with coolant and burp the system.
The idle system in this car is designed to be set with the car at running temperature, so that's the first step is to warm it up.
Then using the FSM, the best thing to do is to restab the CAS and set timing with a light. Don't forget to jumper the check connector.
Then turn the car off and set the TPS. I like to use the two-light method, but voltage and resistance work too.
After that set the idle speed using the adjustment screw.
EDIT: Oh, and the airbox hose 100% needs to be connected between the MAF and the throttle body. Don't try anything else until that's reconnected.
From what I'm gathering it starts, you just need to keep your foot on the pedal for it to run. The first thing I would do is just let it run for a bit and see if it improves. Maybe have a friend feather the gas while you fill it with coolant and burp the system.
The idle system in this car is designed to be set with the car at running temperature, so that's the first step is to warm it up.
Then using the FSM, the best thing to do is to restab the CAS and set timing with a light. Don't forget to jumper the check connector.
Then turn the car off and set the TPS. I like to use the two-light method, but voltage and resistance work too.
After that set the idle speed using the adjustment screw.
EDIT: Oh, and the airbox hose 100% needs to be connected between the MAF and the throttle body. Don't try anything else until that's reconnected.
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