My motor is in, and I have had a lot of problems getting the car to run, let alone even idle.

I had the motor rebuilt with a 2nd stage street port, cryo'd the rotor housings and all the seals, and the injectors have been cleaned and flow tested. The ECU is stock, as is everything else. Heres the problem. When the motor went in, I had a walbro pump installed. It flowed so much fuel that the motor would just stall itself out. It had to be held above 1k rpm to run. Wouldnt the pump be fine with the stock management? It shot 4 ft. flames and ran way way way too rich surprisingly, didnt burn the bumper. At any rate, I decided to revert back to the stock pump and it helped a bit with the idle, although not much, as it would still want to stall out. On start up, my mechanic managed to have so much extra fuel left over in the exhaust, that when he started it, a flame shot up and burned all the way up to my reverse light and past it, not to mention a deep burn mark the size of a basketbal nearly melting the bumper nearly all the way through right above the exhaust. This flame on the stock fuel pump and injectors?

So here I am, with the cars idle set at 1500-1700 via throttle cable adjustment, otherwise it stalls, and it runs really really rough. I know there are arguments of whether or not to run the car hard or baby it when its breaking itself in, but at any rate, since its running so poorly I figured to stay below 4k to be safe. It clears up a tiny bit from 3-4, but its still rough. Feels like it sputters or has severe hesitation throughout the RPM range of 1500 on up to 4000. Why is it running so rough? Is it because its cryo'd and the rotor housings are harder, and the seals are taking time to seat so I am getting low compression? Is it a fuel issue? Stock pump, stock injectors, yet its still running rich as ever. Or is it a vacuum leak? I had my vacuum lines checked, my air pump, and my egr valve, and trusting my mechs word, he says everything is fine with no leaks. He just sprayed carb cleaner on the vacuum lines and looked for leaks. I dont think thats a sure fire way of figuring there are no leaks. Thats how he said he tested the lines. So, what is the deal here? Should I try to break it in? Is it usually this rough during break in? Im worried that if I drive it any longer, I may end up doing way more than "breaking it in"....I feel like Im gonna flat out just break the motor entirely. I put about 20 bucks worth of gas in, at 2.30 per gallon, and got about 25 miles before I was on Empty again.

In all of a basic request, I just want to know how a rebuilt motor is supposed to run, fresh off the bat. Is it really this rough, with a streetport, cryo, and STOCK fuel management, injectors, and pump?

Knowledgable suggestions are greatly appreciated, as I would love to get this thing running right, granted all the money, time and drama that I have gone through to get to where I am.

 

http://66.216.67.51/product.asp?0=211&1=262&3=319

 

Yes, the first 100 miles or so is a royal pain in the *** sometimes.
Once it gets over 1,000 miles, it gets a lot more reliable...well, at least it's supposed to.

Cryo treating actually hinders break-in a bit by slowing the seal sealing process a bit...


-Ted

 

you might have your primary and secondary injector wires mixed up.

 

As well as the coils. It's pretty easy to get the low tension leads mixed up...

 

With all this richness, did you ever check fuel pressures by the manual?

A new engine with properly functioning systems will idle an purr like a kitten. The only problem with them is the drivers impatience during the breakin process.