i have been through 3 engines in the past year. the main problem i have been experiencing is that the bearings aren t holding up. the endplay is correct on all the engines, anyone have any suggestions? could it possibly be because the oil cooler contained some fine shavings in it? how can i flush out the oil cooler?

 

I believe theres a little drain plug on it. Becareful when tightening it up that you dont crack the cooler.

 

I'd also be looking at the air filter, if you have a cheapo stainless screen of something like that, often dirt gets through and contaminates all sorts of different spots on the car.

 

i want to flush out the oil cooler with what though?
should i use a degeaser or just use oil?

 

I'm no mechanic, but I've been through about six engines(overhauled) and yet to see a bad bearing. What do the bad ones you have look like. What happened to make the bearings go bad? Are they heavily scored? Burnt? Engine lock up? Thermowax device in the front of the eccentric shaft go **** up? Lack of oil? What kind of oil pressure did you have when it was not broken?

 

i wish i knew what was causing the bearings to collapse. the bearings are made out of copper, they look silver/gray in color when in good condition and they go copper in color when something goes wrong. i have been told because the endplay was too tight, but my friends and i have rebuilt many motors and check the endplay. i could very well be that we are using some parts that are out of spec. if anyone has any helpful knowledge it would be of great help.

 

oh yeah the oil pressure was always good except for in one motor, pressure was 40psi at idle and 90psi at 3500rpm with help of a racingbeat oil pressure regulator. the one motor lost oil pressure right before it went. no lock ups though.

 

Oil pellet behind the front e-shaft bolt have a tendency to go. A couple manufacturures sell bypasses, and ALL rebuilds should take out this pellet.

When the pellet goes bad, it bypasses oil to the rotor bearings and stationary gears.

FC3.0rg, mazdatrix, and atkins all sell the bypass pellets, or you can shim it as such:
http://fc3s-pro.com/TECH/HOWTO/OTB/otb.html

The plug at the bottom of the oil cooler is a thermostat... it bypasses oil flow through the cooler until the oil temperature is up to temp. If this goes, your oil will overheat, but it is rare that they fail. This thermostat needs to be removed for flushing.
I flushed my oil cooler myself by connecting it to my custom fuel system, and removing the thermostat plug, and flushing huge amounts of gasoline through it. Not exactly a viable option though.

Plenty of companies offer oil cooler flushing, just shop around.

 

As the forums biggest proponent of proper oil cooler flushing, here are some links for you to pursue:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...oler+AND+flush

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...oler+AND+flush

 

Double post

 

thanks for the oil cooler information. i used a gsl se e-shaft in my 2nd motor and the first one had the termal pelet. i guess not all the sleeves were withn rebuilt specs, thats the only thing that i can think of. anyone else have any knowledge on the subject?

 

Welllllll, I saw the remark about the GSLSE and maybe these words off the Mazdatrix site might be of some help:
****Important note on counterweights: The front and rear (or flywheel) counterweights PLUS the rotors make a balanced
assembly. The years / rotors we list in the following charts are for PRODUCTION years of the rotors / counterweights! A lot
of mixing can be done when building engines, providing the rotors and counterweights match. By this we mean 89-92
non-turbo rotors (lighter weight, higher compression) can be used in an 84-85 13B engine as long as the matching front and
rear counterweights are used also, for instance. ******

 

only the e shaft was used, the front and rear counterweights were always matching counterweights that were removed from the same engine.