LLADNAR

please tell me this is not as hard as it looks in the service manual. now i already know i have to pull the whole hub assembly,,but it shows using a press to get to the studs. and like most of you i don't have a press right handy.

has anyone had to do this before,,and if so are there any helpfull tricks to getting these things out without taking apart the whole damned car.

and yes it does have ABS

thanks in advance

Randall

tims

you should be able to remove all the brake parts(caliper, rotors and backing plate) and pound out the broken stud and install the new stud using a lugnut to pull the stud back into place. be careful pounding the stud out and buy some washers and a spare lugnut or two. if you are using a stock stud you should be able to install it without removing the stub axle. if you press the stub axle out you will probably need to replace the rear wheel bearing as it can be damaged when removing the stub axle. I have done this trick many times on my own turbo II. unfortunately I don't have ABS, but I don't think that is a problem once the brakes are removed. take it apart and check it out.

blu_gxl

i don't think any of the 2nd gens had abs?

james

LLADNAR

well since you don't have abs you obviously can't visualise the problem. the exciter ring is back bolted to the hub and is right over the top of the studs preventing them from being removed.

but i think i will order that wheel bearing.

LLADNAR

bump^

PraxRX7

Oh they have it alright....it doesn't always work though, but when it does....HOLY CRAP does it work good when you need it.

Downside is it takes up like 1/8th of the engine compartment and rubs up on my BOV. I want to swap to a newer, more compact ABS pump, I am going to be looking into ABS swaps pretty soon.

tims

I didn't think they would put the toothed ring on the hub most other manufacturers incorporate them into the brake rotors. The wheel bearing most likely will need to be replaced after pressing the stub axle out. good luck.

LLADNAR

yeah it is a very stupid design,,but not as stupid as the idiot that managed to ruin teh studs,,,this little obsticle is one of two things from keeping me from driving it for the first time,,the other is paint and that will be solved soon,,thanks for the comments and help,,and if anyone who has had to do this reads this i would appreciate their input as well.

hypntyz7

The rear hubs on a FC are set up like the front hubs on a FWD car. You'll have to remove the whole spindle/knuckle assembly fromt eh car, after the rotor and bracket are removed. Youll have to gradually knock the axle out as you do this(it stays int eh car). Then you have to press out the hub(center part) from the bearing, while it stays int eh big knuckle. Same as a FWD. Very few FWD cars were designed to be able to do this repair without pressing it apart...today we looked at a chrysler sebring or something similar and the knuckle/spindle was actually made small enough behid the hub that you had room to knock out the broken studs at a certain place in rotation..a window was cut into the spindle for this purpose. ON teh civic I did last week, I had to press it apart, the spindle was made the same diameter as teh hub, so there was no room. You can reuse the bearing, but a new one would only be like $30.

LLADNAR

thanks man,,,i am going to take it all apart, and as for the ABS ring,,it won't be making its way back on to the car,,i hate the ABS it takes up room and i will remove it all eventually,,and i am going to cut a spot in the dust plate so that any more studs(hopefully won't ever happen) should break i can easily remove them without all this mess.