Alright, my car is really starting to give me some touble. I had to replace the radiator cap b/c the upper seal was leaking. Great not tough, unfortunatly the add coolant light still comes on and I am still getting up to almost full temperature in a about 1 and a half miles. My friend pressure tested my radiator so I know thats not it. Could it possibly be my water pump? Someone please gimme some idea

 

check your thermostat

 

Overheating – check list

1) Replace the thermostat. Make sure it fits. The spring loaded disc on the stat must close the bypass port, or guess what?
2) Replace the radiator cap. Low pressure = steam bubbles = spit out coolant.
3) Look for leaks. (same symptoms as #2) Some can be very hard to find. You may have to pressure test it. A common failure spot is the 3/8” coolant line that runs from the top of the rear housing (under the intake runners) to the throttle body, to the BAC, to the water pump.
4) The fan clutch will slowly start slipping as it ages. On your series 4 the fan should pull really hard up to about 4K. It should maintain about 4K as the motor revs higher. Sometimes you can get more life from it by bending outward the bi-metal strip on the front of the fan clutch.

So you have done #2 #3, now go for #1, & check #4..

 

First of all thx fir the ideas, second when i added coolant this morning (it was low due to my old cap leaking) I didnt take the air bleeder plug out b/c it was all stripped out, could this have something to do with it? Also any ideas on how to get that stripped out bleeder out of there?

 

hmmm, I just read that removal of the air pump can make the fan slip even worse, but that still doesnt explain the add coolant light/buzzer... Anyone had the same problem before?

 

(by the way Kahren: nice driveway..)