This is very frustrating. I just got my engine back in after being under the knife for 3 months. Had the engine ported and polished by Atkins Rotary. Front cast iron was replaced, along with both rotor housings. Stock turbo installed. Stock intercooler along with injectors. I don have a Walbro 255 pump. along with vacum tree removed. Also egr delete, air control valve is gone, and cold start assist. Bac valve still present along with all other upper intake solonoids. The vehicle started in 3 revolutions when starting for the fist time. I did also install a wideband and am sitting between 12.4 and 12.9 at idle. have driven vehicle 40 miles or so. runs great however hot starts have been an issue. Floods very easy. Did find if I run vehicle to 3000 rpm and shut it off and then when started hold the gas peddle to the floor it starts. Also when coasting down a hill in gear and foot off throttle my wideband pegs at 16 all the way lean. Once I crack the throttle it reads right where it should. What could be causing my hard start issue, and is it normal to see these wideband readings coasting.Also injectors have been flow tested and cleaned. When I recived them back the guy from injector doctor told me they were 592cc injectors. Everything else other than the throttle body on the engine is new. Please help Thank you.

 

Check FSM for hot start issues should be within first 10 or 20 pages of the F2 section for a turbo. It will give you a troubleshooting order that it could be.

 

install a fuel cut off switch and turn off the fuel before the key which will turn off the car then turn the key off. it will stop the flooding

 

yeah I dont see any thing being wrong. Most everything is new and the engine I know is sound. I have put 40 more miles on and reved to 3000 and shut key off. came back 5 min later and held my foot to the floor and cranked with no problem what so ever. is this normal?

 

my 88 tii does the same thing when coasting with the car in gear. A/F goes verrry lean.

 

I had hot start problems with my 87 t2. I had to have a cut off switch and a switch on one of the ecu wire. Complete pita. My problems have all been solved with the Rtec 2.1. GL

 

It's designed that way. Normal as can be. IF your driving along and let off the throttle just a bit, the front rotors fuel is cut and only the rear is active. Let off the pedal all the way and all fuel is cut until the rpms drop to around 1200 rpm approx.

And for some of the other posts above....................when STARTING the engine fuel is determined by an internal fuel map of the ECU (not the afm) that is dependent on rpm, water temp. AFTER 500 rpm is achieved THEN the afm is used for fuel.

A working BAC helps. Goes full open if the key is HELD to START.

Things work as shown in the attached jpgs.

A RTEK2.1 can be used to adjust the amount of fuel used during START. It has a chart similar to the one attached and you can move the amount of fuel vs the water temp .

Seems the subject has never, never, never ever been discussed before.

 

Thank You very much