Craiger

iTrader: (1)

I do not know of anyone locally who does anything with rotary's. I rebuilt mine myself with help from my cousin while I was living in Vancouver. If your mechanically inclined and have a few tools you can probably do it yourself.

All together my gasget kit and seals cost me about $1000-1200. I can give you an inventory of what you need if you'd like... I think I can remember everything. If you walk into Mazda and ask them for a rebuild kit they won't have a clue what your looking for, you need a list for them.

The other option is to contact RX7 Specialties in Calgary. I believe they offer rebuild kits that would include all seals and you could tell them you need a kit and they would know what your talking about. I would also highly recomend their custom apex seals, they have been known to survive in a 700+ hp car that ran out of gas at full boost.

Craiger

iTrader: (1)

BTW, that's really good for compression in an original S4 turbo motor. If you want to keep the boost low, 8lbs or so, and as long as your oil metering system is still good I bet you could get close to another 100k km's out of that motor!!! Sounds like it's been babied!!!

88Rx-7turboII

iTrader: (2)

Well yeah the guy i bought it from was in his 60's and he said he babied it. I think to start off ill keep it at low boost like you say but at that level do you think i'll be able to hit around 230hp? and also what would be a good sign that the seals may be about to blow if there is such a sign just so i would have a heads up and not hafta deal with the damage.

88Rx-7turboII

iTrader: (2)

and by oil metering do u suggest i get an upgraded gauge? or just make sure the stock one still functions properly.

Craiger

iTrader: (1)

Hmmm... well let's talk about HP at the crank since that is what the stock quotes were. The car came with 186 if memory serves me correctly, and with your compression and assuming the turbo and ECU are still operating properly you are probably still right around that mark. To hit 230 is about a 25% gain which will be pushing the limit without starting to get into more major upgrades, but possibly doable. The best advice anyone on here can give you is whatever you do make sure you do "the right" upgrades rather than the ones that will give you the most gain the quickest.

Now for specifics. First things first you need some guages to see where the car is running. Boost will be very important and a wideband. If the car is bone stock it will be boosting to about 5.5lbs or so. when you start to up the boost you need to know what your upping it to. The wideband will tell you if the car is ready for more boost or not. If the car is running in the 12's under full boost your flirting with danger. We'll cover more on this later. As well you might want to think about a fuel pressure guage and a water temp guage. These will all give you an idea of whether the car is ready to be upgraded or not... and they look cool!!! You can get an autometer mechanical boost guage for about $50 and an AEM Wideband for a little over $300.

If your looking to for that kind of gain you will need to put some money into your fuel system. A high pressure fuel pump like a Walbro will get the job done and is damn near the top of the list for upgrades to a turbo car. This will up your fuel pressure at the same time and make the engine run a little richer than it does now (which is a good thing in this case). This is where the wideband comes in handy so you know how rich/lean the mix is. You might want to look at an after market rising rate Fuel Pressure Regulator as a cheap mans way to get more fuel into the engine. The fuel pump will run you $100-150 and the FPR will be about $130 or so depending on when you source it.

If you want to break the 200hp mark you will nee exhaust. Check with NB to see if you need cat's on your car or not... I don't need them in NS. If you don't need the cat's and want something cheap the rx7store.net system will get the job done... might be a little loud though. If you need the cat then just get a good cat-back system (there are ton's around) and get a downpipe to replace the pre-cat. If you are so inclined, you can always buy some pipe and universal mufflers and make your own exhaust if you have access to a welder. 3" all the way or 2.5" if you split it off to dual. You can price these out, but your probably looking at $500-1000 depending on what you want.

If you do exhaust you will need to get a fuel cut defender. Like I said earlier, I have one kicking around that you could have for cheap. As well a high flow air filter would be a good upgrade too. A drop in for the stock air box is probably fine for now. The S4 MAF is a pain in the *** when it comes to fitting a cone filter, and these cars come with a decient intake system anyway. If you don't need the cat's this might be a good time to remove your air pump and emmissions control crap. See the archives to find out what can be taken off and what can't. All of these are super cheap, less than $100 but a little bit of work.

At this point you really have to be careful to watch for boost creap. In the archives there is a good writeup on how to port the S4 turbo's wastegate. Cost is minimal.

Lastly, a manual Boost controler can be used to do the rest. You need to be very careful with these as most are very sensitive. I would try to stay around 8lbs of boost max without rebuilding the engine first. The most you can safely run with the S4 turbo is about 12lbs anyway. You can probably be pretty close to your goals at about 8 as is.

So for under $2000 you can probably hit you goal safely, however I would still strongly consider rebuilding the motor rather than risking it blow up. A rebuild now would most likely just be about $1000 for seals and gasgets; if you blow it up you might need to get into replacing rotors and housings and god knows what else.

Just a little disclaimer, I take absolutley no responsibility if any of this work is preformed and causes a failure. There are too many variables to consider to say if any of this would be 100% safe, but as I said above, all this SHOULD be ok. Anyone else please feel free to give your opinions too.

Craiger

iTrader: (1)

Nope, although an aftermarket oil pressure guage can't hurt.

The Oil Metering Pump (OMP) injects small amounts of crankcase oil into the rotor housings to lubricate the apex seals. This is why a rotary drinks a little bit of oil. You'll see some people remove it and instead put 2 stroke oil into the gas tank at each fill-up. Personally, I still have my OMP hooked up but I still put 2 stroke oil in at each fill-up at a 200:1 mix ratio. I would suggest reading the archive on this too.

RETed

It's actually 182bhp.


-Ted

Craiger

iTrader: (1)

Damn.. that's going to throw off all my calculations...

Thanks for the correction... My bad

phoenix7

why is this thread still alive? There aren't even pictures to keep it interesting.

Longshoe

iTrader: (2)

Read everything under the 2nd gen engine performance section at http://1300cc.com/ then read everything here http://fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/mods.html . You should then have a pretty good idea what the parts of your motor do, and what you need to upgrade. That being said, I did this:

Fuel cut defender
Racing beat 3 inch full exhaust
FD fuel pump
Ported S5 turbo wastegate
Boost gauge

I ran 10 psi on an S4 TII motor with S5 turbo for a good while, then I decided to move on and make more power, you dont need a rebuild at this time but should have another compression test done at 200k kilometers.

edit: make sure your car is in good tune first, plugs, oil, fuel filter, etc.

88Rx-7turboII

iTrader: (2)

How much would you want for the fuel cut defender and would you be able to ship it down?

10thaniv

iTrader: (1)

My 7 was stock when I bought it with 57000 miles. I started my upgrades with the exhaust (bonez downpipe and cat with Racing beat cat-back), and then the intake (again bonez). I then replaced the BOV with a Turbo XS type S and a FCD from Rotary Prefomance. I replaced the fuel pump with a FD pump, replaced the fuel filter with a high flow filter, and rewired all the connections. I then installed a boost gauge and a TurboXS manual boost controller and set it to 10psi at WOT. My car still passes the smog test and has 200wrhp. Good luck with your 7.

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

200 whp seems a little low for 10psi, but maybe thats just me.

Craiger

iTrader: (1)

Through the spring/summer I am usually up in the Moncton area a fair bit. If you do one of the mod's that causes you to need one then i'll bring it up with me and we'll test it. I assume it works but i'm not 100% sure. If it works then $20 would be fine. Keep in mind you don't need this part untill you either put on a boost controler or a new exhaust system.

88Rx-7turboII

iTrader: (2)

I have a boost controller on the way and a catback is my first upgrade im planning on.

Craiger

iTrader: (1)

I'm sure everyone on this form will agree with me in saying for the love of god please get a Boost guage and a Wideband before you start playing with the boost controller!!!!

88Rx-7turboII

iTrader: (2)

oh yeah i am im just gettin it as a christmas gift