Was kind of confused is it possible to have a half briged engine and run it with stock ecu or do you have to go stand alone. Also who here has a half bridged na and what are your guys setup and and exhauts setups?

 

you could run it on the stock ECU, but not well. and it would never ever make smog in cali.

 

I built a 4 port half bridge motor and tried to run it on the stock S4 electronics....it definatly didn't work. It was very hard to start and would buck and stutter once it was put under load.

Get a standalone computer if you plan on building a bridgeport motor.

Heres a vid of my setup running though!

 

What he said...The only half bridge on the stock ECU I have experience with was a 13B RE running the TII ECU. Wickedly hard to start, idled like crap (even for a bridge) and drove very badly.

The timing and fuel requirements of a bridgeport are so different then a stock port that you really need a standalone.

 

IF you halfbridged ONLY the 5/6 ports and kept the sleeves functional, you'd get the top end benefits without the low end disadvantages. It should even pass emissions. I plan to try this in the near future with a stock control system and see how it works out.

 

Well, as of now, I am running a half bridge six port on a stock ecu. I really haven't had many issure running it. I can say thow, that I have a megasquirt that I'm waiting to put back in the car. But to get it to run decently on the stock ecu,I had to do a few things.

1. TPS is set to about 2.5 ohms 'closed'
2. Timing is set ATLEAST 25 degrees advanced. my CAS is almost turned to the end of the hole. (nice sound coming from filter when you rev it )
3. COMPLETELY close off the secondary butterflys on the throttle. I just removed the adjusting screw alltogether. Then get a 'extended' 8mm bolt and use that to adjust you primary throttle plate to hold an idle between 1500-2000.
4. get your injectors cleaned. The good way, not the STP b.s.
5. pull the AUX. port sleeve, and actuating arm/bushing from lower intake and seal hole with 2 dimes and silicone.
6. "upgrade" (dont flame on this) to a 626, sliding butt plug, afm. sence the outlet on this thing is the same as the inlet on the throttle 'snorkel' you can run a big fatty cold air intake.
7. exhaust... header to straight pipe, to a couple fart cans. For back and forth to work/ daily driving, I just put in some silencers.
8. upgrade clutch. I have the 'ebay special' six puck sprung stage 3

1-4, is pretty much a must, at least it was for me. After the motor was broken in, and doing 1-4, the car starts up fine... In maybe like 2 to 3 seconds of cranking. Only real issues are gas mileage and cruising. Accel, and decel are fine but cruising is a little bucky at first, but I learned to control it. Just a little peddle manipulation. The whole "no guts below 4000rpms" is garbage. No worse that a six port with the aux. ports 'wired' open. Even then, I can barely feel the difference. HAH! Show me a n/a rotary with low end torque. From a stop, it feels slightly faster than stock until about 3800-4100ish. After that... HOLD ON BABY!


5,6,7 and 8 are optional I guess. 7 and 8 I did at time of rebuild. 5 and 6 were done at two different times. After each was done, a noticeable difference was made. This was not just the placebo affect. Before I told anyone about doing them, my friends could tell, just from riding in it.

As for noise... Daily driving, I use silencers, and its still loud. So when im in my hood, I always go one gear too high, and that really drops the noise levle. If it is really late, I cruise at 25mph in fifth. purrs like a kitten, and no bucking.

So yeah, It is NOT AS BAD as people make it. Im sure 95% of people saying it sucks have never even cracked a motor open, let alone build a bridged mootor. But I do agree, this is not you best option. Hell, not even you second best. I would rather carb and use a distributer than the stock EFI. But it does work, and I would say at least adequate. BUT!! I do have a megasquirt im getting ready to put in soon. Or maybe I should try to run it at Gainsville and see what a half bridge will do on a stock ecu.....


p.s. im lazy, so i didn't even try to proff read that. and if no one cares, sorry for bringing this thread back.

 

you should take it to the track before the megasquirt, I'm serious.

 

Actually every person that responded (except possibly snowball) has first hand experience with bridgeported engines, and many of them have tried using the stock electronics.

 

Thank You all for your help. The car is finally running. Right now i am in the break in stage. All is going good. One thing i hate is waiting for it to warm up. Since i elimated the cold star and the front butterflies. Gas mileage is not to bad either and sound is not bad driven by cops and never had a glance from them and this is with headers 3 inch piping and the way back to a racing beat muffler. The putting sound gets annoying ever now and then but sometimes its nice to hear. But thanks all for the help.

 

rap rap rap, wpappa wpaa wpaaa Oh I love that sound! Im also doing a NA bridgeport. Im using all t2 plates and housings but with NA guts.

 

+1

I have one of these motors. Idles like a streetported S5 (which is to say that it likes to hunt for an idle half the time, and idle fine the rest) but there is a significant improvement in midrange power and from 5200 on the car pulls MUCH harder than the stock S5 N/A. At the moment I am using a stock ECU, injectors, and intake/exhaust, though I have plans to move to a standalone in the future.


BC

 

So, with a half-bridged n/a s5, a standalone, full intake and exhaust, about how much hp can be squeezed out (with proper tuning of course), and where is the powerband more or less? Also is it easy to drive on the street, and can it be possible to have it pass emissions?

 

Unless you do only the aux bridge and keep the sleeves functional, your pretty much SOL for emmisions with any type of bridge porting.