GXLII: Starts, revs, dies. ugh!
08-19-02, 06:34 PM
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GXLII: Starts, revs, dies. ugh!
Well, after many hours spent looking for vacuum leaks and looking for anything to cause the car not to start, we decided to check the spark plugs, and low and behold, only 2 of the 4 actually sparked. This is my second set of plugs with less than 30 minutes of running time on both sets, anyone got any idea's as to why I could be killing plugs so easily? I managed to get the car to start with the AFM hooked up now, howerver it takes quite a bit of convicing, and the car doesn't want to rev very well, if I give it gas quickly it'll stutter, if I go slow it revs completely. I'm guessing perhaps a timing issue at the moment, but anyone have any ideas on why I keep killing plugs?
08-19-02, 06:45 PM
#2
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
You didnt put the oil in the gastank and the gas in the oil tube again did you? 
Time for another postwhore thread. It's hard for me to keep up though, since you keep starting new threads. lol
Time for another postwhore thread. It's hard for me to keep up though, since you keep starting new threads. lol
08-19-02, 07:03 PM
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08-19-02, 07:23 PM
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No, I haven't replaced it. Though, I did fix my timing (which was the cause of the rev stall issue) However, it DOES start with the TPS & AFM hooked up now (takes a little coaxing but it starts after about 30seconds) then it'll rev just fine, I can floor it over and over and over and it won't hesitate, just up it goes (made it to 7,500K and then the buzzer went off so I let off) My question is what can be preventing it from idling? I've played with that TPS so much it's giving me a migraine. It'll stay running for as long as I keep my foot on the gas, the second I let off it falls to it's death. Though I am getting closer, after hours of trying!
08-19-02, 07:25 PM
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The two that were sparking were T1 & L2, L1 & T2 weren't firing (however with other plugs they fired just fine) except these plugs have about 40K miles on them 
08-19-02, 07:29 PM
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Honestly it just sounds a lot like a vacuum leak.
However, if L2 is sparking, the L1 MUST BE. Both spark plugs are part of the circuit, so if one isn't firing, the other won't either. Period. Are you using a proper spark tester (not a timing light)?
Tested your BAC valve?
However, if L2 is sparking, the L1 MUST BE. Both spark plugs are part of the circuit, so if one isn't firing, the other won't either. Period.
Are you using a proper spark tester (not a timing light)?Tested your BAC valve?
08-19-02, 07:56 PM
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well, my spark tester was holding it on the strut-bolt and seeing which sparked, only the two plugs did, the other two didn't spark. Anyway, the car will start and idle at 2,300RPM without a hitch, revs just fine, etc, but it won't idle at anything below that. I'm starting to think the BAC valve is stuck open, doh, time to replace that! I can't seem to the tps properly adjusted, I tried the 1Kohm method, but the damn test lights both remain on no matter where I have it. Well, after all of that, the car will run, idle at 2,300RPM, and rev just fine, now if only I could get it to idle lower I'd be in heaven!
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08-19-02, 10:27 PM
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AFM=Airflow Meter. Its connected to your Airbox
TPS=Throtle Positioning sensor. Its a bitch and is allways outa whack no matter what... lol its on your throttle body looks like a retracting and expanding black cylinder.
I miss any?
TPS=Throtle Positioning sensor. Its a bitch and is allways outa whack no matter what... lol its on your throttle body looks like a retracting and expanding black cylinder.
I miss any?
Last edited by spazzytroy; 08-19-02 at 10:32 PM.
08-19-02, 10:41 PM
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Well, i fixed my severe hesitation & bucking issue (TPS) now I'm working on the high idle (2.5K) once I get this fixed my car should be all good to go, just a little rough to start!
08-20-02, 12:14 AM
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I think I have ONE too many threads going, since the AFM is no longer my problem (some WD40 and carb cleaner seemed to fix that problem, i think the track it slides on was dirty and it starts with the AFM now) so I'll continue on this thread as it still won't idle on it's own unless I set the screw to 2,500K. My only idea now is the BAC being stuck, can this safely be blocked off, or is it better to find a new one?
08-20-02, 12:22 AM
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if it's a vacuum leak, it's one that carb spray/starting fluid/wd40 can NOT find, I sprayed every inch of that damn thing with little to no success, however it does start up now and it will idle at 2.5K and rev just fine, but I'll be damned if it will idle any lower. I checked for hours on vacuum leaks, checked over each and every hose, and I couldn't find any, took the manifold off and checked everything under there, everything looks good, everything is capped, and still won't idle low. What else could cause this? I'm still leary of the AFM, but I'm starting to think it might be more than just that.
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