88 RX-7 TII S4 TII, 32,XXX miles

I have been blessed with a Brand New Garret GT45 turbo. Is that too big for stock internals? Also how high can I SAFELY crank up the boost with stock seals and stuff...

 

not at all. Stock fuel will not support this. And unless you are building a drag strip racer you won't even be able to spool this turbo on the street. Way to big sell it on ebay and buy the GT35 or the 35/40

 

does anyone have any specs for the gt35 or gt35/40?

i'm wanting an aftermarket turbo eventually and i want something that isnt THAT much bigger than stock. would a gt35 flow too much for me?

 

hey,

I have a t66 on my Rx7 http://users.ncable.net.au/~exodus/. You would need alot of work on ur engine and after install ur looking at around 350hp on lowest boost. To get the thing to spool a tiny exhaust manifold would work. Mine would not boost till 6,000 then i put a 1.10 on it 3,500 and ur smoking tyre.

Cheers
Chris

 

you will need a custom manifold as well.... thats a big compressor housing, and you'll have to get it away from the LIM, I don't think you could even get by with the HKS external wastegate stock style manifold..

 

anyone?

 

The GT45 is to big to put on, your gunna have some fitment issues with the lim its going to rub from what i understand. i am redoing my motor with 3mm cryo seals. and i'm putting a T-72 BB and thats going to be spooled with a stage III street port. I say sell the turbo and get a hybrid S5 turbo and you can still use the stock ic.

Just my .02

TurboSmoke

 

As far as stock internals being strong enough- 1987-88 "blocks" are the weakest, 89-91 somewhat stronger and 93+ are the strongest. The 13B cosmo motor is probably the easiest/strongest to adapt to the FC since custom mounts are available.

Rob Golden of Pineapple Racing has said to me he thinks that the 87-88 and even 89-91 engines are pushing their limits at 400RWHP. I don't know it he meant a perfectly tuned 400HP or the abuse an engine is likely to take getting set-up at 400hp...

Besides the rigidity of the housings, there were continuous oil, stationary gear, bearing and other improvements to these engines.

 

the GT45 is also a 1.09/ar and has a divided housing

jacobcartmill you should be able to find some info here http://www.turbocalculator.com/garrett.html
http://www.cheepturbo.com

 

www.cheapturbo.com that is

 

The biggest difference as far as I know is between 87-88 and 89-91. The irons on the earlier motors are known to crack under stress around the oil filler area above the 300 horse point. That area was redesigned and is much beefier in the 89-91 motors. I would imagine that a properly built motor using 87-88 rotors (low compression), 89-91 housings/irons, and 93+ oil pump would be one hell of a strong motor. The strength of the stock apex seal is often misunderstood. OEM mazda seals will satdn up to a LOT of power provided the car is tuned correctly. Remember Adam Saruwatari from back in the day? You know, when import drag racing became popular in like '96-'97? His 10 second FD used stock apex seals and that was back then when tuning was considerably more crude then what we are capable of today.

This is off topic though. That turbo may be a beautiful piece but it's not suited to the car you are building. It's just too much turbo for your motor which, if I remember correctly, is a stock JSPEC. Sell the turbo and use the $ for other areas of your swap (I think you're swapping into an NA, right?).

If you'e not rebuilding that JSPEC, I wouldn't try to push it very hard. You cold also sell that turbo and use the money to get the motor freshened up since you have no idea what the condition of the internals are in. www.rotaryresurrection.com will get you in MUCH better shape than the motor is likely in at this point.

 

I would imagine that a properly built motor using 87-88 rotors (low compression), 89-91 housings/irons, and 93+ oil pump would be one hell of a strong motor. The strength of the stock apex seal is often misunderstood. OEM mazda seals will satdn up to a LOT of power provided the car is tuned correctly.

This is the engine that I had Rob build for me- 87-88 rotors, 89-91 housings/irons and his race oil mods w/ 3mm seals (I thought perhaps a concession in price as much as anything, as serviceable 87-88 rotors are getting harder to find).

Sure it is/was strong, but I still wish I had a rebuild done using the J-spec Cosmo 13B as a base- since the parts would be newer and stronger by design.

 

True, but all you wanted was a reliable 300rwhp right? That motor should take that without a sweat.

 

I don't understand what you guys are asking?
Most of the questions are answered in the Single Turbo section.

GT3540 would produce about 400-450 at the wheels at 17psi to 18psi - the limit of pump gas.

A GT45, if it's real, has the potential to hit 1000hp levels, if you build the engine right with appropriate fuel mods.


-Ted

 

Right, but he wants to know if he can use it onhis stock motor 13BT - actually, a used JSPEC that hasn't yet been installed.

 

the answer is no. your ports arnt big enough to spool it.

 

Ok...I made one phone call and its sold already...that was easy...whats a good aftermarket trubo to put on there and where can I find one.....I really wanna get rid of this dinky little stock one...

 

Yea thats me Jon88SE...i wanna put the turbo on before the motor goes in because It's a paint in the *** to do with the motor in...found that out the hard way once...never again

 

How about a T3/T4 Hybrid? Is that too big or will that be fine?