AreExSeven

No, not comming out, but going back in. I pulled all my plugs, and am trying to put new ones in. I got 9's for trailing, and 7's for leading. The upper right one, and lower left one went in fine, but the upper left and lower right just wont seem to go in. I put it in there, and the only way it catches the thread is when its kinda at an angle. So I try tightening it in from there, and it goes in about 3 turns and stops cause the side of the plug hits the edge of the housing. Me and my friend have both tried for hours to get them to go in, but they won't catch going straight in, only from an angle. And we tried putting the old plugs back in, and it does the same thing with those too. Is it possible the threads on the housings got stripped? And I know they were way over tourqued when I tried to pull the old ones out.

By the way, while im at it - Is there an easier way to get the plugs in, Ie, removing something first, cause I can barely get my hand in from above and below.

I know, call me stupid, but I need to figure out why its doing this.

Thanks

Suparslinc

Oh man from what you say you are screwed. Sorry

Suparslinc

the old plugs must have been seriously cross-threaded in there, or you cross-threaded the new ones. Either way I think you've got big big problems; I don't think you can tap a plug journal out can you? Anybody? You just can't force the threads in there esp. on an aluminum block.

Suparslinc

the old plugs must have been seriously cross-threaded in there, or you cross-threaded the new ones. Either way I think you've got big big problems; you just can't force the threads to go in there esp. on an aluminum block. I don't think you can tap the plug journals out can you? Anyone?

Suparslinc

edit feature won't work

Icemark

I agree... from your description you have or someone previously has cross threaded the plugs.

You might get lucky and be able to re-tap the plug holes (not more than 1/4 turn without backing out the tap and run a good vacumn/shop vac at the same time) but generally you will be tearing down the motor and replacing the housings.

next time you replace the plugs on any car with an aluminum head or housing make sure you use a little anti-seize compound when putting the plugs in and screw in by hand. if you have to use a wrench or wrachet to put the plugs in you are doing something wrong.

Only use the wrench to tighten after the last turn or so

AreExSeven

well this would be the first time I did it. It was the previous owner who did this. Still been trying with no luck though. My dad is looking at it now and can't figure it out either

RETed

Have you tried to remove the spark plugs when the engine is cold or hot?&nbsp You might want to get the engine up to temp before removing the spark plugs...



-Ted

AreExSeven

the plugs are already out. I can't get the new ones in. Well, 2 of them won't.

copandengr

NO..No...No....No.... NO!. Never Ever try to clean threads out with a tap. It is designed to cut metal and will remove the threads that are there.

For a few bucks at any good tool supply place you can purchase a spark plug thread chaser. It is a simple device and is designed to roll the threads back into place rather than cut new ones. It is also designed to start straight in boogered threads. These tools sell for around 15 bucks and look sorta like a spark plug body without the porcelain. They come with two different size threads, one on each end that fit just about every plug made.

Harbor Freight sells them, and their catalog or web site will have a photo of it so you know what I am referring to.

Gefunk

Try some Deep Creep, you might just have buildup on the thread that is causing you to not fully turn it.

gotorx7

STOP!

Get hold of an expert before you make things worse, or you're looking at an complete pull-down and rebuild...

Try to find an engineer in your area who specialises in motor rebuilds (at the machining level) and get him to take a look...

Good luck....

perfect7

I agree call a expert and save yourself from making it worse

Green

Crap man that sucks Always make sure it's going in straight before you start screwing em in, if the threads are dirty it should still go in, just might have to use ratchet( BUT TURN VERY LIGHTLY!) .. Oh and start saving some money

blu_gxl

don't worry this is not a big deal just have a mechanic retap them for you. i don't care what everyone else says it is perfectly safe and easy for a mechanic. i had to have mine retapped because i was useing 9's all around and the 9 thread is courser than the 7 thread. just make sure that you have a shop do it for you and that they get the taps from mazda, my mechanic took the price of the tap off of my bill because he wanted the shop to keep it for futre use. the taps are about 13 each. but if you have a shop do it and they mess up your engine then they buy a new one.

just my .02

james

AreExSeven

well how am I gonna get it to an expert if it doesn't drive?

go_speed_go

And for that reason, many won't touch that kind of job unless you sign a release.

scathcart

Get it Towed.
ask an obvious question, get an obvious answer.
I would CHASE the threads myself. I can do it just the same as any mechanic. Put some grease on the threads tio catch the metal shavings, clean it a lot, and make sure you don't cross thread the Chaser.
Sean

AreExSeven

This sounds like the thing I will most likely do. Anyone have anything against trying this method? I figure its already screwed up, and im gonna have to take it to a mechanic, so should I try this first anyway? Lemme know any cons to doing this before I do.

Also, I couldn't find the thing on harbor freight, so does anyone have a direct link to it so I can see what im looking for?

Thanks

Scott 89t2

AreExSeven

ya I didn't get that either. They look like the same thread to me

gotorx7

They ARE the same thread - only difference is the Heat range...

AreExSeven

Ok, I got myself the Thread Chaser tool. Or what I think it a thread chaser tool. Its this black metal thing with 2 different thread patterns (one for 14mm, and one for another) on either side. It doesn't seem to look like it would do much that a spark plug would not. Can anyone explain to me in detail exactly what I need to do to make this work right?

Thanks a ton.

AreExSeven

Well Heres An Update For You Guys:

I tried the thread chaser tool, it didn't work. So I bit the bullet and had it towed to the local mazda expert. Out $100 for that. The guy takes a look at it and says its too messed up to fix, and he won't touch it. Now im out another $100 to get it towed back, and I need a new engine. Pretty Shitty eh? Well, im wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to what to do now, since I am pretty much stuck without a working rotary. Buy a used one off of FC3S/org or get a rebuild kit and some rotor housing and do it myself? Or some other solution of a way to get the holes tapped. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

RETed

There's these things called "Heli Coils" that are made for aluminum.&nbsp Bungled spark plugs holes are pretty common in aluminum cylinder heads, so these should work in the rotor housings...


-Ted