2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Grrr... Spark Plugs won't budge!!

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Old Mar 29, 2002 | 07:11 PM
  #26  
seveninphilly's Avatar
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From: Bristol, PA
I agree with Ted

The Heli Coil is good last ditch effort. My father back in the day used it to fix a 3 cylinder two stroke 1960 saab engine and it lasted for years

But be careful you only get one shot
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Old Mar 29, 2002 | 08:52 PM
  #27  
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From: Lost
Ok. What kind of mechanic would I wanna take it to to have the heli coil done? I don't think the guy its at right now will do it.
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Old Mar 29, 2002 | 09:00 PM
  #28  
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From: Bristol, PA
its a do-it-yourself thing the kit comes with directions just take your time and as a old hippie once said "do it with love"
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Old Mar 29, 2002 | 09:01 PM
  #29  
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From: Lost
is it easier if I pull the engine out so I can line it up perfect? cause theres really not much room to move around in there.
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Old Mar 29, 2002 | 10:07 PM
  #30  
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From: Lawrenceville, ga
I hate to say it, but the righ tway to do it IS with the engine out.

This way you can take the engine to a machine shop and they will do it right.

You will have to then remove the exhaust manifold and intake to get the savings out, fluch the chanbers with WD-40.

Then with the spark plugs out, turn the engine slowly to evacuate all the shards.

Kee up with which face is holding the most shards and turn it tward the exhaust opening,

Tilt the engine ant fush the entire face with card cleaner.
1-2 cans per rotor.

DONT TURN THE ENGINE AGAIN without lubing it (WD-40).

Also take this opportunity to replace the OMP lines and clean everything within an inch of its life.

Bottle brushes are your freind here.

Then regasket the intake and exhaust properly)

Also take the opportunity to check/set all the parts back to factory settings.

It so much easier to do it off the car.

Heck, even clean up the engine compartment.

After your done, and the machine shop is done, youll have a MUCH stonger engine.

Itll run better for sure.

Heck the Machine shop might even flush the rotors out for you, but I would prefer to do it myself.

If your in Atlanta, or close, I would be glad to help.
I have a shop at my house.
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Old Mar 30, 2002 | 02:26 AM
  #31  
AreExSeven's Avatar
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Huh?
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From: Lost
Originally posted by Sniper_X
I hate to say it, but the righ tway to do it IS with the engine out.

This way you can take the engine to a machine shop and they will do it right.

You will have to then remove the exhaust manifold and intake to get the savings out, fluch the chanbers with WD-40.

Then with the spark plugs out, turn the engine slowly to evacuate all the shards.

Kee up with which face is holding the most shards and turn it tward the exhaust opening,

Tilt the engine ant fush the entire face with card cleaner.
1-2 cans per rotor.

DONT TURN THE ENGINE AGAIN without lubing it (WD-40).

Also take this opportunity to replace the OMP lines and clean everything within an inch of its life.

Bottle brushes are your freind here.

Then regasket the intake and exhaust properly)

Also take the opportunity to check/set all the parts back to factory settings.

It so much easier to do it off the car.

Heck, even clean up the engine compartment.

After your done, and the machine shop is done, youll have a MUCH stonger engine.

Itll run better for sure.

Heck the Machine shop might even flush the rotors out for you, but I would prefer to do it myself.

If your in Atlanta, or close, I would be glad to help.
I have a shop at my house.
Hey thanks for the offer, but im in California. Anyway, are you saying have the machine shop do the helical inserts? Will any machine shop do it?
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