grrr a fuel problem....
#1
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grrr a fuel problem....
so my car has been running perfectly since i purchased it ( a 1988 10th aniv.) until yesterday. Before yesterday, i used to be able to start it right up and it would idle first at 3k then go back down to 1.5k until warm and hold idle at 800....well since the cold front came in, i noticed that when it started it barely went up to 1.5k instead of 3k and it kinda acted like it wanted to stall. Im thinking it was due to the cold weather from the sudden cold front. So i get to my friend's house and i stay there for the night. In the morning i noticed that my car just cranks and cranks...hmmm....flooded?? so i go to remove the egi fuse and do the unflooding procedure and finally it starts but with lots of hesitations...almost as it wants to stalls..but finally it holds idle at 1.5k until it warms up then goes back down to normal at 800. My car has never flooded before, but then again, i have never had it through cold weather. My question to you is, could this actually be caused by cold weather and how do i fix this. I have a fuel cut off switch and when i tried to use it today it worked...it shut my car off but when i went to turn my car back on i found that it had flooded again. i went ahead and did the unflooding procedure and again it started up but hesitating. Does cold environment really stress these cars out that much? :-p
thanks for whoever reads this.....kinda blowing off some steam too =)
ps: after i finally get the car to start it runs just fine.
Ps again: ontop of this i some how forgot to put the cap back on...you know the one that covers the egi fuse and the rest of the fuses..yeah...so now it has gone forever into the great unknown...****!.
thanks for whoever reads this.....kinda blowing off some steam too =)
ps: after i finally get the car to start it runs just fine.
Ps again: ontop of this i some how forgot to put the cap back on...you know the one that covers the egi fuse and the rest of the fuses..yeah...so now it has gone forever into the great unknown...****!.
Last edited by apreludem; 10-12-04 at 07:38 PM.
#4
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Although I have no FSM proof, I do believe that if the rad temp switch senses anything below about 60*F, the 3K system will not be activated...
I don't know about anybody else's cars, but the only three times mine has flooded in the time I've had it ('bout 6 years), the weather was cold & wet...
I remember my '84 had a hell of a time starting in cold weather also
I don't know about anybody else's cars, but the only three times mine has flooded in the time I've had it ('bout 6 years), the weather was cold & wet...
I remember my '84 had a hell of a time starting in cold weather also
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My 88 T2 does the same thing,(used to idle at 3k, now at 1.5k, and it is around 30-40 in the mornings) but it might also be because all of the emissions are removed?
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damn....so i can pull off codes even though my engine light is not on right? ugh...i hate having problems but this is the fun part too :-p
ps: my turbo timer stopped working today also...wth?? it was working find earlier then tonight i just noticed that it was not on...anyone? its a greddy.
ps: my turbo timer stopped working today also...wth?? it was working find earlier then tonight i just noticed that it was not on...anyone? its a greddy.
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*******Although I have no FSM proof, I do believe that if the rad temp switch senses anything below about 60*F, the 3K system will not be activated...************8
Ah, ha! Someone who understands the water temp switch in the bottom of the radiator for a 86-87 RX. Outstanding. But the 88 and above do not have that switch, so it does not apply to this thread directly. But it's good to see that someone understands that switch in the bottom of the radiator. Now there's two of us!
Ah, ha! Someone who understands the water temp switch in the bottom of the radiator for a 86-87 RX. Outstanding. But the 88 and above do not have that switch, so it does not apply to this thread directly. But it's good to see that someone understands that switch in the bottom of the radiator. Now there's two of us!
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#9
hmm..dont think so..i think leaky injectors do that.....which timer do u have?.....my apexi does that sometimes too....but as soon as i start it up again the second time...it works...weird
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i have a greddy...it just stopped working completely......no matter how many times i try to start the car up.
Thanks for the responce by the way.
anyone know the site that has the instructions on how to check for codes? i looked at the fc3s.org site and all i found was for 89..the site i used to go to is down now =(
Thanks for the responce by the way.
anyone know the site that has the instructions on how to check for codes? i looked at the fc3s.org site and all i found was for 89..the site i used to go to is down now =(
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
*******Although I have no FSM proof, I do believe that if the rad temp switch senses anything below about 60*F, the 3K system will not be activated...************8
Ah, ha! Someone who understands the water temp switch in the bottom of the radiator for a 86-87 RX. Outstanding. But the 88 and above do not have that switch, so it does not apply to this thread directly. But it's good to see that someone understands that switch in the bottom of the radiator. Now there's two of us!
Ah, ha! Someone who understands the water temp switch in the bottom of the radiator for a 86-87 RX. Outstanding. But the 88 and above do not have that switch, so it does not apply to this thread directly. But it's good to see that someone understands that switch in the bottom of the radiator. Now there's two of us!
Mine's an '88, build date 7/87, and I have the temp switch....
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ooooo ...but wait...build 87 ...maybe he meant only the ones that are not build in 87..like 88+ :-p....by the way i found the code check stuff at 1300cc.com incase anyone wants to know =)
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Good...Now mount two LED'S in the cabin using the writeup (in TEAMFC3S.ORG, I think) so that you can have a permanent real-time code checker.
There probably were no '88's actually built in '88. Production runs almost always conclude in the previous year, depending on supply & demand...
There probably were no '88's actually built in '88. Production runs almost always conclude in the previous year, depending on supply & demand...
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&&&&&Mine's an '88, build date 7/87, and I have the temp switch&&&&&&&&&
Eh, yeah, 86 thru 88. Just a screwup. I'll get over it. Most likely NOT related to any flood problem.
Eh, yeah, 86 thru 88. Just a screwup. I'll get over it. Most likely NOT related to any flood problem.
Last edited by HAILERS; 10-14-04 at 02:42 PM.
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dangit...something is wrong with my tester lights.....they don't light up at all and the lights are too short to test them out with the battery...lol damnit.
update: lights are working fine..i just extended the wires to check em and it works. So its either not giving me any codes..or its too bright outside to see the flashes..ill have to check again later on this evening....ill keep you guys posted for whoever gives a damn =)
update: lights are working fine..i just extended the wires to check em and it works. So its either not giving me any codes..or its too bright outside to see the flashes..ill have to check again later on this evening....ill keep you guys posted for whoever gives a damn =)
Last edited by apreludem; 10-14-04 at 03:14 PM.
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After you connect the lights into the proper check connector pins, test them by turning the key to ON. Both should light for about 3 seconds, then go off...
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Don't have the leads in the right pins on the check connector?
The ECU drops the ground to complete the circuit once the LED's are in place...
Did you ever find that write-up I was talking about?
The ECU drops the ground to complete the circuit once the LED's are in place...
Did you ever find that write-up I was talking about?
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i found the one in 1300cc.com site....this is what my lights look like
Edit: i just got done pulling codes and i got no codes.
Both lights turned on for around 2-3 secs and turned off to never turn on again unless i turn the ignition to off then turn in back to on to get the lights to turn on again for 2-3 secs. To my understanding, this means that nothing is wrong....so why is my car flooding?? help anyone =(
Edit: i just got done pulling codes and i got no codes.
Both lights turned on for around 2-3 secs and turned off to never turn on again unless i turn the ignition to off then turn in back to on to get the lights to turn on again for 2-3 secs. To my understanding, this means that nothing is wrong....so why is my car flooding?? help anyone =(
Last edited by apreludem; 10-14-04 at 10:55 PM.
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ok so i pulled codes and there are no codes......so now i will change the spark plugs and see whats up....you guys can start throwing ideas at me any time =)
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!!UPDATE!!
well i think i fixed it..kinda hard to tell since the weather all of a sudden got hot .....
what i did : i changed the spark plugs and it fired right up to 3k like its suppose to...turned the car off after it warmed up and the idle settled down at 800 and turned it back on and it started up just fine....like i said my problem happened during cold weather so ill just have to wait for another cold front to come to test and see if i really did fix it. ...thanks for everyone's help specially the rat. =)
well i think i fixed it..kinda hard to tell since the weather all of a sudden got hot .....
what i did : i changed the spark plugs and it fired right up to 3k like its suppose to...turned the car off after it warmed up and the idle settled down at 800 and turned it back on and it started up just fine....like i said my problem happened during cold weather so ill just have to wait for another cold front to come to test and see if i really did fix it. ...thanks for everyone's help specially the rat. =)
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